i consider evoms clutch is the best and only option we have and really expensive !

 

do you mean a Tilton triple disc?

 

if you are breaking axles I would have a set of gun drilled 300m axles built.

Not only is 300m considerable stronger then 4130 or 4140 and way stronger then oem material but they are going to take a lot more twist before yielding which will take more shock out of the system when you dump the clutch or wheel hop.

If you go that route i would also fin the cv for better cooling and decreased weight.

 

Does the warranty cover the CV's? Is it a total guarantee?
Who else has any feedback on them? (I have only seen positives about them-- so it makes me curious)

 

HAHA.. you know too much..

 

Building and racing cars and involved in the industry for the last 25 years or so I suppose I have retained a bit of info

I have been involved with and built some fairly exotic axles During that time.

For my job as an automotive journalist I recently did a feature on axle strengths. We went to the manufacture and using a custom built destructive testing machine we took the top brands of axle shafts and destruction tested them. those were Dana 44 and Dana 60 shafts made from 4130. The kind you would use in a off road race car or jeep type vechile. I have also used Porsche 930 cv joints and custom 300m shafts in my desert race car. So a bit of practical usage as well.

 

I was just talking to a gent yesterday about fining the body of the cv to help get the heat out. He was telling me that the heat was causing the boots to fail.

 

Because of the angles that they run in off road cars, purpose built aftermarket boots are used to accomadade up to 27* of angle.

The finning Of the cv does dissipate heat which can and does melt the grease out of them when they are used in high demand applications. Machining fins into the cv helps dissipate the heat. We have done some testing on this . I do not have the data handy but it is enough to make it worth doing. Plus reducing the weight is always important.

Popular greases used to withstand the temps are swepco , Lucas and belray.

I just spent the day in moab utah jeeping with a few of the guys from Lucas oil and they were telling me that they supply many of the f1 and Indy car teams with their line of cv grease.

 

Just got back from the drag strip... On a trailer...
After my first run of the day, small not pushing too mutch, something went wrong...
At first I thought I toasted my clutch... But no stinky smell... just slipping...
After I looked closer, I hear noise coming from my left rear wheel... As I tried to move the car the car was just slipping more and more... Then more noise from the left wheel... cling clack!! Sound like a blown axle?? I will disassemble and check it out tomorrow...

You guy's seem to know allot about axes, what do you think??

 

I bet it turns out to be a broken cage in the cv.

They make 300m cages as well.

A race prepped cv will consist of 300m cages, machined lightweight finned bodies, the star will be deburred and polished. I don't know if for a track or street car they will blueprint the cv to the same specs as a off road race unit but in off road racing they blueprint them to a looser fit to cut down on friction and heat. Tight cv's like they come from the factory build to much heat and rob power.

Anyhow, sounds like you broke a cv joint.

 

You're right!!

My inner cv cage was destroyed!!

I don't race the car or anything... I'm just going to reinstal an OE shaft I already have...

Besides the acutal shaft what do you have to take apart to get the shaft out? Obviously, the two upper arms, shock and sway bay... But how about the toe link? You dont have to take off the whole knuckle?

Thanks Camo Cab!!

 

I have no idea what has to be removed to get access to the axle for removal on your car but it can't be that difficult.

However removing the axle itself is pretty straight forward. Remove both cv,s and the unit is out.

The tricky part is really putting it all back together. The trick is to get the cv packed with enough grease , and not just any grease. If you don't want to track down the high performance stuff racers are using make sure you use Porsche spec stuff. They make a special packing tool but you can do it with a spatula , making sure it is well packed. Now for the fun part. You have to clean up the surfaces of the cv that mount to the flange and the bolt holes. If you leave any grease on the mating surface it will create a gap that hot grease will leak out of during operation. And if you leave any grease in the bolt holes that will get on the bolts during install. Grease on the threads equals bolts falling out during hard use. We always drilled the bolts and safety wired them as a nessasary precaution.

Ya I know most of that is race stuff and super nit picky, but I wouldn't assemble mine any other way.

 

Kartek sell the cv packing tool I mentioned.
http://www.kartek.com/Product/Tools/CVGreaseTools.html

They should also have pre drilled bolts if you want to safety wire them. Or if you already have the drill fixtures just do your own.

 

HP doesnt break the axles on a launch.. Nobody is making 1000hp in the 1st 15 feet where they break.. You can snap a set on stock HP most times.. If you catch 2nd gear and snap a set then your making some power..

Improper clutch release & tire hop are what breaks them in most cases.. The stock 996tt axles are hardly WEAK by any standard if you compare to other cars..I would just replace them with stockers again and slide the clutch a little more out of the hole to get the car moving..

Mike

 

Very true, shock loading the axle or cv is what breaks them. Even if you had 1000 hp you would need some incredibly large and sticky tires to hook up enuff to break the robust axle or cv in your car.