So is there anything else you would suggest swapping out or testing before I have this thing towed? I didn't quite follow you on the "solenoid on the cam tower facing straight up"... Is that something I should look at as well? Also, would I harm anything by firing up the engine and keeping it at 4k or above if it's been sitting cold for almost 2 weeks now? I suppose I should test the specific scenario that you ran into yourself, no? I'm certainly not equipped to drop the motor in my garage at home though and "cam timing plates" sounds a little too intimidating at this point.

This week might be the week to have it towed... Very Big *sigh*...

Grassy *** again for all the help and suggestions...

 

pm'd

 

First picture is a solenoid, second and third is the location of the two solenoid for the cam advance and the last the picture the valves lift solenoid location....

 

But wouldn't a variocam issue throw another code?

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...e-fault-p1349/

 

Agree Paulumn. I post these picture for info. The vario cam can be test using Durametric "drive link" functions....

Lots of work on this link related to variocam...http://www.renntech.org/forums/index..._1#entry125986

 

Gonna try a few more things while laying on my back in my garage... It might be off to an indy shop here soon though. JPFlip and Paul, thanks for the input my friends... I've not given up just yet.

And Tim, thanks again for taking my call the other night... Learned a LOT talking to you!

I'll keep the thread updated... Also, got my hands on a Durametric (thanks to a local 6speed user) and it pulled the same P0348 code and also the MAF hot film something or other... but I think that might just be the car running like ***. The MAF is a brand new Bosch part I put in a month ago.

 

Any updates on this problem???
Thanks,
Frank

 

Alas, my only update is that the car was towed to a local indy shop yesterday... Just talked to the owner a few minutes ago and he'll hopefully get his hands dirty with it a little later this week. I'll be sure to keep everyone posted on their findings.

Tim, he actually threw out the idea you initially had about the cam seals possibly being bad and therefore not holding any PSI to activate the advance... ? I guess we'll have to wait and see. Thanks again for all of your help through this... You're a true enthusiast - in every sense of the word.

 

Lets see I hope it is not too!

 

Turns out it was a broken timing chain... I'm going to start a new thread now.

... here we go

 

Wow! This is a really a bad news. I am surprise that you did not hear the piston hitting the valves. Hope you do not have too much damage in there... Good luck.

 

I find it really odd that you were able to get the car to run (albeit briefly) with a broken timing chain...

Is your car chipped/modded?

 

Thats what I was thinking. How on Earth did it run with a busted Chain.
Frank

 

Built Porsche Tough, huh?

My shop guys said the same thing... the fact that it would run (albeit, very rough - obviously) was amazing. I'm pretty certain that I had some sort of defect in the chain material, since there is still no rhyme or reason to the chain just snapping.

 

well folks, I have the code P 0343 "camshaft position sensor circuit reading high". I also recently noticed oil leaking. I'm hoping the oil is just from the drain plug not getting tightened enough when I recently had the oil changed. Any ideas on the camshaft position sensor? I have no tools or garage to work on it as I'm away on business. How much can I expect that to cost at an indy shop? I was thinking of taking it to At Speed Motorsports near Baltimore.