Ok so BRK7EIX are the way to go for 1.2 - 1.3 bar, but why the need to gap them to .25 or .26...do they not come ready to plunk into the car?

 

You can, but you'll have spark plug blow out & will be pulling them out again to gap em down further.

 

is there a special tools so i can gap them easily ?? as these small tools may make it harder to gap the plugs or it will not give you exactly reading , is there a good tool to do gaping or any shop sell plugs with gapping as request ???

 

I just did my plugs and coil packs. Alex "Sharky" Ross at Sharkwerks recommended using Bosch FR6LDC plugs. They came pre-gapped at .025. The plugs have multi-grounds. He told me if I use the NGK BKR7EIX, they will require changing every 5,000 miles or so. He said these should last 30K.

I was going to use the NGK's as recommended by this thread and others, but my plugs don't look lean. #3 and #6 (which was pulling P0303,P0306 codes-misfire) look perfect with a brownish tint. Others were brown/light black. So, I don't know if I would benefit from a cooler plug. See pix.

 

I personally run Denso IK22's in my car with no misfire issues at 1.4bar on billet K16's. I run those with new coils.

I've always used Denso's on my Supra with great success. So far they've proven to run my 996tt wonderfully as well.

$55 shipped for a set of 6 and I replace them annually. Hard to beat.

- Chris

 

I run Denso PK20PR-P8

No problems what so ever

 

Denso PK20PR-P8 good for 1200 whp cars at 33 psi... proven...

 

This is comical... So many people have totally differing reviews of the same plugs... One says they work great... the other says they caused mis-fires....
Spark plug debates are like oil debates... I really do not think you can really prove any of these claims with any real empirical evidence.

My view is à pretty well all these plus show no great difference in technology. All of these plugs have been tested under the harshest uses the manufacture could come up with. Fat wire, thin wire... Blah blah blah.... You could even be off with the heat range in most people’s cars and they would just never know it.

The best tool for gapping a conventional plug is a flat blade style feeler gauge. Tapping a plug to tighten the gap is a no no in my opinion. Drop a plug or wack a plug falls under this old saying... Drop it once, drop it twice. --> the second time you drop it is in the garbage can.

There are several companies out there that make decent plug gapping devices.

No matter if a plug is new out of the box the gap should be checked before it goes in an engine.

 

I agree with just about everything you say but...Under high boost with our coils there are plugs that do preform better then others or even the "other" plugs can be modded to combat spark blowout.

 

Translation --> Pick the right heat range of plug -- Then gap it right for your application and go.

Tim please do tell me which plugs perform better and how you came upon that evidence. I do believe that certain plugs would work better more than likely do to the associated factors being taken care of or matched to the needs of an engine.... That is getting the heat range of the plug right for the set up of the car and the environment it will be used in, then after that getting a more optimol gap setting.

Also my humble opinion. Irridium plugs are better, the metal plating on the plugs is better, it withstands heat better, is longer wearing and it also does not wear as fast keeping its firing edges cleaner and sharper longer thus lasting longs and firing better for a longer time in an engine.

But also note. I find many mechanics damage plugs when gaping them. They tap them to close up a gap and they also chip the coating on a plugs tip quite often when gaping them. Either by jaming in a feeler gauge and especially when they use an electrode as a pillar to pry open a gap. Do any of those things to a plug and you just might as well throw it away

 

With your background I would think you would know all about this topic. I do not feel like just handing off my my hard earned knowledge of this matter. Why do you think there are company's that sell 5$ spark plugs for up to 100$ apiece? They mod the electrode and ground strap to suit your needs.

 

Hey I am not challenging your knowledge... But like you I really do not want to write a thesis on the subject on here... I know you know your P-cars very well, which I do not but I am learning.

But we are talking Off the shelf spark plugs and the opinions people have of them on here.

If you want to start talking boutique spark plugs you are on your own because even the best modded plug can be better matched up in the high end aftermarket world by companies like Brisk or NGK or Denso racing or Altador.

My biggest comment in this all is the people saying I use this brand because this brand is no good as I had mis-fires and Joe blow from Joe blow racing told me to use this plug and it worked are just a wee bit to uninformed about the over all picture.

 

Fully agree. My plug of choice is a off the shelf plug tho, at any parts store.

 

+1...most cars, like 996 turbos, that run higher than stock boost, need frequent plug changes....3-5k miles ... Why pay $10 a plug when a $2 plug will do the same job for that amount of time...Just my experience...I always ran the NGK BKR 7E...

 

Just swapped my plugs yesterday afternoon, I took my time & it took 3 hours. That's taking the bumper, intercooler & heatshields off, using a floor jack....if i had to do it again; I'm sure I could knock it out in a hour w/a lift.

I put in ngk iridium bkr7e-ix plugs, gapped to 025. My coilpacks were already replaced 9k miles ago. Overall car runs way better, creeps to 1.1-1.2 bar.

Best my car has ever ran. Raced a z32 w/a 2jz-gte swap making 487whp and a cressida w/a 2jz-gte swap making 506whp from a 60mph roll and we were all dead even till the top of my 3rd gear and then I pulled a couple of feet on both cars. I did get beat my a heads & cam c6 zo6 making 550whp by 1.5 cars.

I known my clutch is going to be the next thing to go.