On our dyno, a stock 996TT is about 340. Lets just say 350. So that will hold over 600hp/tq.

Heavy-duty street & racing system
· Holding capacity 110% over stock
· Heavy-Duty reinforced pressure plate
· Hi-Leverage™ pressure ring design
· Sprung hub/cushioned disc
· Steel backed Segmented Carbon/Kevlar

 

Was wondering, what other kind of data is there or what would you like to see?

 

ttboost you are running one right?

 

...or something close? I think it's a Clutchmaster Stage 2 or 3 with extra spring pressure on pressure plate. Been running it for 2 years now at 600whp/640wtq. Plenty of drag passes and a trip to the Mile too, as you recall.

 

110% over stock would be 770, and I'm assuming you are referring to TQ, right? HP and TQ are two VERY different things (i'm sure you know this, I'm just calling it out).

I haven't shopped for a clutch for my TT yet, but every other car I ever had installed a performance clutch on came with TQ rating numbers. I know for a fact ACT did, so I'm a bit surprised these are not readily available numbers.

 

That's why I asked, because I too have bought MANY clutches in my life and NONE performed as purported too. I was in the same spot as you way back when. At least HERE, people are TELLING you what they are running and at what power/tq level and for how long. I would think that would mean WAY more than a number on a box, no? I searched here for a popular choice and then proposed it to my Indy and he approved of my choice. The ONLY caveat is: regardless of what clutch you go with, you can't be sure about how it is gonna feel on actuation unless you drive one BEFORE you commit to it. Mine was very "on/off" when I put it in and does take a good 2000 miles or so to FULLY break in and get used to it.

 

You are right - we are very fortunate to have a strong community to pull the info from and sure, I'd go off of reputable personal experience, but a number on the box is also nice because it makes it easier to plan around the numbers you want to make vs. "this set-up does it so mine will too".

I think your logic is right on (research, then approve by Indy).

There are a ton of variables that go into what a clutch can handle, but my guess is that manufacturers are starting to guard against improper break in and abuse by not disclosing numbers so they can't get challenged on claims... who knows, just struck me odd, that's all. :-)

 

I can appreciate your concern. I would also like to add, that if a vendor here recommends a clutch "combination", I would be very comfortable that it will work, or obviously, the (this) world will know about it, provided you performed break in correctly. I am very sure I will be in your position again soon. I'm pretty sure my next round of mods will get me dangerously close to 700wtq. Not sure how much life is left on my clutch, and it IS still good, but I will continue to tap this resource when it comes to my Turbo. Based on what I have seen and heard here, my next clutch will likely be my last clutch,(read Tilton, etc...) Good Luck on your quest.

 

I am looking for torque numbers. In my experiences the strength of a clutch is somewhat a variable when you are drag racing. Drag racing is very tough on any clutch regardless of their torque ratings. And it is a variable that changes from driver to driver based on their technique. I am looking for customer feedback on their setups too though. The thing is I am not looking for a clutch that targets drag racing. They are often times on/off switches and too aggressive IMHO. I want one that can hold up to the 16g turbos on a DE and not compromise daily driving. If I am not doing launches I should be able to use a higher clamp force PP with an organic disc and not have issues with 16G turbos. I am just hoping somebody can provide their experiences on their clutch setup in reference to the driving events I am looking into.

 

Makes sense!

Hopefully I won't have to worry about a clutch for another year/two.

Cheers, TK

 

My stock clutch just started slipping when launching hard (stoplight to stoplight street run) or when from a hard rolling start (cruising then drop 2 gears and accelerate hard). Stock '04 996TT Cab with headers and exhaust. I'll be looking to eventually achieve 600awhp. This clutch has 25k miles with unknown use/abuse from previous owner. It sounds like recommendations within this thread are applicable to my needs. Anyone have other thoughts?? Thanks for the great info already given. The contributing members are incredibly helpful!

 

Want to know what I hate about aftermarket clutches? Getting crap from SPEC like this after thinking surely they have gotten better over the years, lol:

 

Well, the guys at Sachs performance, after talking with the technical division (they have been VERY helpful), just told me that they have a special organic friction disc that will work very well with a LWFW, holding 700+ ft/lb when used with the 764 pressure plate.

I'm getting it and I will report the exact part numbers, and driving impressions of course.It'll have to work with 3071's.

 

Hi,

i think you will get these parts

883082999764 cover
881864001098 disk

Greetings
Andreas

 

If you want a clutch that feels like stock and hold the power then take the hint...use the chart bbywu has provided. The Sachs 764 and organic disc will deliver, and you couldn't possibly have higher expectations than me. In so far as vendor advice, do yourself a big favour and google the reviews on each vendor you are listening to and you will soon see who knows what they are on about.