Front / Rear Camber setup fot Street / Track Use ?
#1
Front / Rear Camber setup fot Street / Track Use ?
My Dealer does this camber setup on my 996 TT X50.
Is this good or bad for aggressive street driving and occasional track use ?
How the car will work with this setup , Understeering Oversteering ?
Front Left -0°45'
Front Right -0°41'
Rear Left -1°51'
Rear Right -1°47'
Thanks for Your comments.
Is this good or bad for aggressive street driving and occasional track use ?
How the car will work with this setup , Understeering Oversteering ?
Front Left -0°45'
Front Right -0°41'
Rear Left -1°51'
Rear Right -1°47'
Thanks for Your comments.
#2
My Dealer does this camber setup on my 996 TT X50.
Is this good or bad for aggressive street driving and occasional track use ?
How the car will work with this setup , Understeering Oversteering ?
Front Left -0°45'
Front Right -0°41'
Rear Left -1°51'
Rear Right -1°47'
Thanks for Your comments.
Is this good or bad for aggressive street driving and occasional track use ?
How the car will work with this setup , Understeering Oversteering ?
Front Left -0°45'
Front Right -0°41'
Rear Left -1°51'
Rear Right -1°47'
Thanks for Your comments.
Define aggresive ? That's not enough imo. You need more rear camber and you need to adjust your toe up front and at the back.
I had this as a base:
Front toe: Out .2 inches
Front Camber: 1.5 degrees
Caster: 7.5
Rear toe: In .15 inch
Rear camber: 1.3 degrees.
If you want more aggresive I have other settings I can share.
#3
That's a competently done vanilla street alignment. Any negative camber
will help cornering, at the cost of added wear of the inside edges of the
tires. If you want to drive across the U.S. 20 times on one set of tires,
have no negative camber. A Porsche should corner.
However, if you're really wanting to corner as hard as possible, and if
you do track days and don't want to chew off the outside edges of your
tires, then you will want a more aggressive alignment than that.
will help cornering, at the cost of added wear of the inside edges of the
tires. If you want to drive across the U.S. 20 times on one set of tires,
have no negative camber. A Porsche should corner.
However, if you're really wanting to corner as hard as possible, and if
you do track days and don't want to chew off the outside edges of your
tires, then you will want a more aggressive alignment than that.
#4
Thanks for your comments , so for a best track use i need more negative camber .
Only at the front or at the rear too ?
What are the best "number" at front and rear ?
I look for something about this in other posts but i don't understand if they talks about total axle camber or single wheel camber ..
Only at the front or at the rear too ?
What are the best "number" at front and rear ?
I look for something about this in other posts but i don't understand if they talks about total axle camber or single wheel camber ..
#5
Thanks for your comments , so for a best track use i need more negative camber .
Only at the front or at the rear too ?
What are the best "number" at front and rear ?
I look for something about this in other posts but i don't understand if they talks about total axle camber or single wheel camber ..
Only at the front or at the rear too ?
What are the best "number" at front and rear ?
I look for something about this in other posts but i don't understand if they talks about total axle camber or single wheel camber ..
Caster and toe are just as important as camber.
#6
There's no 'best number' because it's always a tradeoff of giving up some of
some benefit to gain more of another. For serious track you want maybe
2.5 degrees negative camber for each front wheel, and maybe 2 degrees
for the rears, close to zero toe-in all around, and as much caster as the
front will then allow.
some benefit to gain more of another. For serious track you want maybe
2.5 degrees negative camber for each front wheel, and maybe 2 degrees
for the rears, close to zero toe-in all around, and as much caster as the
front will then allow.
#7
op needs to post up his TOE numbers as well....
Toe will define tire wear. You can have plenty of camber, and get very good tire wear with the right toe.
F1 posted some good numbers for handling, IMO it will wear a bit faster than a more neutral toe. Good turn in though...
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#8
You also need to factor in what tires you are using. Here is what I do:
For the street, a standard GT2 alignment, which is pretty much what you have. I run on Kumho Ecsta's. Relatively inexpensive, and the tires wear pretty evenly all the way across the tread surface with this setup.
For the track, I run on Michelin Pilot Sport Cups. I set the camber to -2.5 degrees up front, and -3.1 in the rear. Toe is adjusted to be the same as on the street. Some people say that my rear camber is too high. I find that on my car, I get very even tread wear across the surface with this setup. That is a very good indicator of how the tire is performing, IMO.
Note that you will have a very difficult time getting this much camber on your car with some modifications. I have GT3 split lower control arms up front, and it takes the max of 14mm shims to switch between the two settings. In the rear, I have adjustable upper control arms (dog bones) and an adjustable toe link.
I can swap tires, brakes, fluids and alignment in about 4 hours. First time took longer.
Jon
For the street, a standard GT2 alignment, which is pretty much what you have. I run on Kumho Ecsta's. Relatively inexpensive, and the tires wear pretty evenly all the way across the tread surface with this setup.
For the track, I run on Michelin Pilot Sport Cups. I set the camber to -2.5 degrees up front, and -3.1 in the rear. Toe is adjusted to be the same as on the street. Some people say that my rear camber is too high. I find that on my car, I get very even tread wear across the surface with this setup. That is a very good indicator of how the tire is performing, IMO.
Note that you will have a very difficult time getting this much camber on your car with some modifications. I have GT3 split lower control arms up front, and it takes the max of 14mm shims to switch between the two settings. In the rear, I have adjustable upper control arms (dog bones) and an adjustable toe link.
I can swap tires, brakes, fluids and alignment in about 4 hours. First time took longer.
Jon
#9
Also remember that different tires require different settings. Toyos need less camber than the Michelins that Jon is running, otherwise they wear the inner edges out before the rest of the tread. I found this out the hard way and had to throw away a set of rears because of it.
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