Starting/battery issue
#31
Thanks for keeping us up to date with this deckman. But we know that tphss is fully satisfied with what he got....
#33
I took the alternator to an auto parts store and had it tested. It passed and is still good
Now I feel like I'm chasing a rabbit down a hole. Djantlive early on in this thread said it could be loose battery cable, failing starter, failing ignition pack. Anyone have advice on what I should do next? This sucks.
Now I feel like I'm chasing a rabbit down a hole. Djantlive early on in this thread said it could be loose battery cable, failing starter, failing ignition pack. Anyone have advice on what I should do next? This sucks.
#34
I took the alternator to an auto parts store and had it tested. It passed and is still good
Now I feel like I'm chasing a rabbit down a hole. Djantlive early on in this thread said it could be loose battery cable, failing starter, failing ignition pack. Anyone have advice on what I should do next? This sucks.
Now I feel like I'm chasing a rabbit down a hole. Djantlive early on in this thread said it could be loose battery cable, failing starter, failing ignition pack. Anyone have advice on what I should do next? This sucks.
#35
#36
Thanks for the link. That thread suggests the alternator will quit after the it get's warmed up, but my battery starts losing juice right after starting, so I don't know if that's applicable here. However, it just says "once the alternator heats up...". I don't know how long that takes. It may only be a minute.
#37
Thanks for the link. That thread suggests the alternator will quit after the it get's warmed up, but my battery starts losing juice right after starting, so I don't know if that's applicable here. However, it just says "once the alternator heats up...". I don't know how long that takes. It may only be a minute.
#41
I've known regulators to fail like that, they get hot then either fail to pass voltage or overcharge the system.
Since you have a new battery that's a done deal. I'd recommend putting a charger on the car to make sure the battery is fully charged.
Now take a look at the cables attached to the battery looking for corrosion both where they attach to the battery, then to the chassis.
It could still be the alternator/regulator. While you're wrenching away I'd replace both. It'll suck less than doing it twice if there's still a problem.
The final problem could be a short somewhere in the system that's draining your battery, just enough to drain but not enough to blow the fuse (typical for corrosion). If you don't start the engine what does the voltmeter do?
Last edited by Centauro97; 02-14-2011 at 09:15 AM. Reason: formatting
#42
I think the regulator is built onto the alternator. Since I have a new one coming I'm going to put that one back in and hope that takes are of it. But yes, the auto part store put it on a bench and spun it up for a couple of minutes until the computer passed it.
#43
The regulator is attached to the back (toward the front of the car when installed) of the alternator. Not sure if all alternators come with one installed or not. I've seen photos of swapping the regulator onto the new alternator in the FYI pages.
#44
#45
In case anyone is still paying attention to this, the replacement alternator is in and that was the problem. It is outputting 14+ volts with no drain. I put in an el cheapo replacement for the the original that cost me just $127. If it ever fails I'll fess up.