Starting/battery issue
#1
Starting/battery issue
My car won't start. The day before it was fine. I turned the key, it cranked once then did the loud clicking. I attached jumper cables and still got clicking then the warning messages started cascading, the window dropped a bit and didn't return to its normal position.
The car is pretty new to me, and the previous owner bought a new battery in December 09. Should I assume the battery is the culprit and replace it?
The car is pretty new to me, and the previous owner bought a new battery in December 09. Should I assume the battery is the culprit and replace it?
#2
Does the car have electrical power? Do any lights (headlight, interior lights) look dim? Does the power window roll up slow now?
Did you jump the car with another full size car? Or was it with a small compact car? You need to rev the engine on the other car to give enough juice. Be careful about connections or you may fry your electronics.
If you have a multi-meter, measuring the voltage of your battery would be a good idea.
Other culprits could be loose battery cable, failing alternator or starter, failing ignition pack.
Did you jump the car with another full size car? Or was it with a small compact car? You need to rev the engine on the other car to give enough juice. Be careful about connections or you may fry your electronics.
If you have a multi-meter, measuring the voltage of your battery would be a good idea.
Other culprits could be loose battery cable, failing alternator or starter, failing ignition pack.
#3
+1 - What he said. And... If you hear clicking while jump-starting the car, you are not properly connected. Wiggle the connectors until you get a good connection before trying to start the car. You will know you have a good connection when the lights on the "working" car dim and stay dim as you wiggle the connectors.
#4
We'll see. I just bought another battery, the other was dead and wouldn't hold a charge. It just seems odd the previous one lasted just over a year. I'll install it later this afternoon.
#5
I replaced the battery and it looked like the volt meter was dropping after the car was started. I went out and got a volt meter to measure it. With the ignition off it read 12.53 volts. I started it and started measuring, but it was dropping, and quickly. In under a minute it was under 12.
So this means it's either the alternator, voltage regulator, or the pulley? If there is any way to diagnose these without just buying replacements and seeing which one fixes it?
So this means it's either the alternator, voltage regulator, or the pulley? If there is any way to diagnose these without just buying replacements and seeing which one fixes it?
#7
Well, you were going to need a battery anyway. If the pulley is spinning and the belt is on the pulley, it's not those two. So, you're left with alternator or voltage regulator - it's unlikely to be the voltage regulator so my bet is on the alternator. They are known to fail in just this way. I have not seen a lot of posts where the voltage regulator has gone bad.
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#8
I replaced the battery and it looked like the volt meter was dropping after the car was started. I went out and got a volt meter to measure it. With the ignition off it read 12.53 volts. I started it and started measuring, but it was dropping, and quickly. In under a minute it was under 12.
So this means it's either the alternator, voltage regulator, or the pulley? If there is any way to diagnose these without just buying replacements and seeing which one fixes it?
So this means it's either the alternator, voltage regulator, or the pulley? If there is any way to diagnose these without just buying replacements and seeing which one fixes it?
When the alternator goes bad the car's electronics are only drawing current from the battery and the alternator isn't charging the battery back so that's why it drops quickly.
With the engine started and a good alternator you're suppose to read HIGHER voltage than when the ignition is off.
Let me warn you, an alternator from the dealer is about $1400. Get one from eBay or online, it's a Bosch model AL0700X, don't worry about getting an 'OEM style' one and not original Bosch. Get a new regulator with it.
#11
#12
#13
But it's the part# TPHSS said to use. I'll call them and do a bit more research. I want to get one ordered today so I can get it fairly quickly. I found a great DIY article and will remove the existing one this weekend.
Another DIY here : https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...e-replace.html
Last edited by jpflip; 02-11-2011 at 09:09 AM.
#14
But it's the part# TPHSS said to use. I'll call them and do a bit more research. I want to get one ordered today so I can get it fairly quickly. I found a great DIY article and will remove the existing one this weekend.
That's the one I got, comes with the regulator and it's a quality product.
#15
deckman, don't beat yourself, get this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-PORSCHE-911-966-BOXSTER-986-ALTERNATOR-TURBO-97-04-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f4d49f03QQitemZ30046 0318467QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries
That's the one I got, comes with the regulator and it's a quality product.
That's the one I got, comes with the regulator and it's a quality product.
120 amps ?????