I think the Air pump removal is more for long term reliability than any performance gains as far as I can see and TBH I'm not that well informed about the removal my self. I just know its a good idea too as it removes a lot of the vac valves and pipes and places for air leaks to start. As to emissions as far as I know the AAP is there to speed up the Cat process by producing a quick heat up of the Cat from cold. It means the cat starts to work quicker. I believe once the Cat has warmed up there are no issues with emissions and the AAP doesn't even run on a warm engine. I am a bit like you on this, I just cant put my hand on my heart and say its a fact fact . Still I do believe in not burning ones bridges so if it does become a problem the AAP will have to go back in.
Good luck with your engine rebuild and I wish I had your positive attitude to problems its a credit to you.
Frank

 

man that's tough !

atleast the next time you'll drive it you won't have to worry about the engine

 

so its not a good idea to set the limiter higher with software tunning

 

The OP is referring to a money shift....aka: http://www.urbandictionary.com/defin...=money%20shift

 

fixing the coolant lines is a good idea, removing the air pump and plugging the lines, checking your IMS gearshaft.

Todd K has a fix for the emissions side of the air pump delete.

there is a company that makes a full gasket kit now that is easier and cheaper then ordering from the dealer.

are you going to do any internal engine mods?

ive done alot of research on this as i had an engine failure due to lack of give a damn by one of the board sponsor tuners. if you want to chat send me a PM and ill steer you in some directions that might help you out.

-William

 

What are the drawbacks of the air pump delete? I'd love to see more info...

 

having to reflash your ecu to pass emissions

 

About broken chains..I experienced a tire spin under acceleration in 4th gear today (wet out there), and actually, after thinking a bit, I'm sure that this can cause a lot of stress on the chain too...

Think about it...the tires spin and at the moment they grip again, suddenly the engine takes a "hit" form the transmission...which in 4th or higher gears can be hard on it, due to the gear ratio effect..

Does this make sense to you guys?

 

I would hope the timing chains can withstand that kind of stress... But I'm no expert...

 

Makes sense, but think about the fact even though the gear ratio in 4th carries much more speed, it carries significantly less torque compared to the lower gears.
So the stress on the chain might be the same, although I'm sure if you calculate it then the ratio between the speed/torque is not linear.

 

As i've said in an earlier post i completely agree with that.
But the only thing i don't get is that it only seems to happen to gt2's or tt's,i've never heard of it happening to a gt3/rs. Maybe its to do with the extra torque finding the weak spots

 

Putting in the one piece GT3 IMS would be a very heads up move. If that OEM sprocket loosens up, you will have to tear down the entire motor to fix it. I know...had it happen last year. Very poor design and extremely costly repair. I found out about the one piece IMS a month after I had the job done or I would have used it - I just hope the new OEM IMS goes another 102K miles or more...

 

Hey there fellas,

It's been a while since I've posted anything of substance. First off, thanks to all for their concern, comments, suggestions, etc... I appreciate it!

So a few posts back, I was 'assuming' that the damage was not all that bad on the inside - I was right. The case has now been cracked and things seem to be in pretty good shape in there. I even found the only piece of the timing chain that broke off when it went... (a semi-circle end of the center link - the outer links snapped right in their respective middles) So I have the entire chain now and will hang it on the wall in my garage next to my collection of broken pistons, bent rods, exploded fuel lines, etc... We will of course, still take everything out and clean the hell out of it to make sure there is no metal anywhere it isn't supposed to be.

It turns out that my X50 motor does in fact have the dual pickup oil pump... not sure if this is the same as a GT3 RSR pump or not, but I think I'll stick with what I've got since this build cost is fast spiriling out of control.

So, my list of things being done to the motor as it goes back together:

• Carrillo rods
• GT3 IMS
• Boattail the block - my shop is calling it a windage mod
• Complete valve job with stock valves and 997 guides
• Welding all water lines
• *possibly* port job on the heads - not $ure yet
• *possible* ARP headstuds - not sure here either, might just over-torque the factory ones???
• *possibly* removing the Aux Air Pump - still toying around with this one

Other stuff that's being added/done while the motor is out:

• USP hard piping kit (pre-turbo)
• K24/18GXT upgrade
• 83lb injectors
• GT2 master/slave cyl conversion - the less common method (John D. style)
• Upgraded clutch - leaning towards Sachs
• Forge DVs
• (Catted?) exhaust

So much for my BONE stock X50 car...

And I'm sure there are some other minor things that I'm missing... Please feel free to keep the suggestions coming. If it makes sense, and I can afford it, I'll certainly consider all that I'm hearing from fellow p-car owners.

Here are a few pics of the innards:









I'm now out of town on business travel for the next month... I hope to receive some photo updates from my builder along the way. If I get anything worth posting, I'll be sure to do just that!

Thanks again for all the feedback and input...

 

I hope it goes good with the build!

 

Good luck with the build. Keep us updated