Just did my clutch this weekend and thought I'd add a few tips and my experience. I have changed many clutches before and this car ranks as the most difficult, not because it is complex but because of how difficult parts are to remove and replace. The advice in this thread was invaluable and saved considerable pain. Thank you, all:

Taking stuff apart proved much more difficult than putting things back in. This was mainly because things were corroded and because I had difficulty finding bolts at times because you are often working blind. My suggestions:

1. Don't even think of doing this on axle stands.
2. A helper is pretty much essential in order to remove/replace the gearbox and to fit the pivot shaft.
3. I have no idea how I would have done it without a fibre optic camera used to remove and replace the pivot shaft cap as well as the slave. The single most important tool for making the job easier.
4. The bolt nearest the tranny that holds the slave on is near impossible to remove. To make life much easier, remove the accumulator. No bleeding is necessary when you replace it.
5. Pivot shaft plastic cap caused me two hours of wasted effort to remove. It was stuck solid and pliers wouldn't budge it. In the end, I melted the top of the cap with a small screwdriver and then I could use the pliers to grab it properly. A bit of silicone sealant resealed the cap
6. Replacing the cap was very easy. I used a stud (as advised here) instead of a bolt for the tab. I glued the tab to the cap with super glue and used a magnet to guide the tab and cap over the stud. Super easy. The whole pivot shaft and cap thing took me less than 15 minutes.

In all, it took me a painful 8 hours to remove and 6 hours to put back in (including two attempted fixes to the starter before I replaced it with a new one). If I did it again, I could do it in less than 8 hours I reckon.

 

two words. clutch fork! in/out 3 times to align..ACK!

props for doing it. we got er done in 6. but my buds done 100 of em. rep for success.

 

The OPs diy is one of the worst I have encountered.
Why? Because it looks complete and well done. Except when you dive you, you find out otherwise.

BE WARNED, that vital tips and information are left out. Some others have added to the thread so review carefully.

This is not an "easy peazy" job in 2.75 hrs (which Ive seen someone mention on this forum) . That person clearly has done quite a few.
If you are diving into this as a weekend warrior/first timer be prepared for it to take quite a bit of time.

 

I agree this isn't an easy job. I honestly believe that the next time I tackle this, then I would remove the engine and transmission together. It would cut the time of trying to work in a tight space and probably save me quite a number of hours.

 

What he said! I removed my trans only and it was difficult to say the least. Next time engine out too.

 

considering the fluid loss the time to remove all the hoses mounts plugs and lines your not really saving much time. is it easier? maybe. after you do a couple you get the feel for were the clutch fork should be taped and when the ckutch fork rod is sliding in. theres also a few tricks to make the plug and tie down for the bolt slide in easily.

 

Tackling this job soon, will have to compare to engine out procedure.

 

Clutch pivot fork removal....GRRR
So the small rubber piece on the right is removed w/ needle nose vice grips which exposes the 6mm female thread?

 

Yeah undo the 10mm bolt holding the plastic button down and try grip it with some pliers but they get real tight, i drilled a hole in my button and left a length of thread out of the shaft so you just undo the tab and pull.

 

that plug has already been drilled for a 6mm bolt. get a 6mm x 100mm bolt and screw it into the end. THEN unbolt the 10mm bolt and pull on the 6mm bolt and all of it should pop out. on reinstall use a rubber oring on the 10mm bolt so you dont drop it in the bellhousing.

 

I'm still confused. First is the rubber insert on the right, then 6mm bolt thread into the right then remove 10mm bolt on left?

 

That plastic plug can be stuck in there. I ended up melting a hole in it and then using a hook to pull it out.

Really, for others, please do not be put off by all of this. I found the whole job only a bit more difficult than doing a na 996

 

I can't get the black plug out

 

its likely stuck in there. it has no threads so it can be a pain. its hard to get your fingers in there to get the 10 mm bolt out without dropping it so thats why i suggest you get the 6mm onto the black plg then remove the 10mm bolt and pull it all out together. sometimes a hook is needed to grab the plug or vice grips or whatever you can get in there. im guessing the trans is still in the car? meaning your leaving the engine in?

 

Yes engine in, lowered about an inch and tranny front dropped 4-5". I am going to try to pick it out, maybe poke a hole in the center. If it drops I don't care I'm separating it anyway. There is just no room to work. Thanks for all the tips.