DIY Clutch Install
#106
theres a hole already in the center judging by the pic. fwiw this is a small amount of the pia this job is when it comes to reinstalling the clutch fork, fork rod and reinstalling the plug and bracket. it really only takes about 5 more hrs to drop the motor and trans and that gives you all the room in the world to work with.
#107
OUT! Used a drill with numerous extensions and a universal joint. I got the hole large enough to fit the 6mm bolt through. My rubber plug was hardened from heat cycles.
I would recommend spending a few extra hours up front and dropping the motor with the trans.; there is just no room for removal in a timely and easy manner.
I would recommend spending a few extra hours up front and dropping the motor with the trans.; there is just no room for removal in a timely and easy manner.
#108
OUT! Used a drill with numerous extensions and a universal joint. I got the hole large enough to fit the 6mm bolt through. My rubber plug was hardened from heat cycles.
I would recommend spending a few extra hours up front and dropping the motor with the trans.; there is just no room for removal in a timely and easy manner.
I would recommend spending a few extra hours up front and dropping the motor with the trans.; there is just no room for removal in a timely and easy manner.
#109
I'll post my new plug design, not going through that hassle again. I'm thinking slightly thicker so there is an edge to grab and possibly with a partial center hole, not through.
Now to separate and remove the tranny, the joy!
Now to separate and remove the tranny, the joy!
#110
no need to redesign it. drill it and grab it with a pick from now on. lining up the clutch fork and ears on the bellhousing will keep you in chuckles and stitches for days on reinstall! imagine putting a blunt oblect filled with 27 needle bearings slicked up in grease thru 4 holes the same size while being blindfolded! drop anything and you get to pull the trans fish it out and start over! theres still time to drop the motor before the insanity starts
#113
rear main seal if yours shows any sign of leaking. be very careful on reinstall with the crank sensor. theres a notch in the bellhousing were the sensor slides into and its easy to whack it when sliding the trans in. very hard to see while moving things around
#114
Better not be!
Good advice. thanks.
Good advice. thanks.
#115
theres a rubber seal that goes around the crank sensor. it has to be installed after the trans is back in. hard to get to and dont push it to far in or it will drop into the bellhousing. then you get to start over!
#116
re the rms. good advice. i cant see any reason NOT to swap it when it'll be staring you in the face. its a 30$ seal, and a royal pita to r&r if it goes bad shortly ( or anytime really ) AFTER you replace a clutch!
#117
Slave unhooked, starter out, front cross brace unhooked, fork pivot removed, engine lowered an inch, can't get more than about an inch of separation (full ring gear teeth exposed). Tips? Is it all alignment? Been shaking, pulling, rejacking, etc.
#118
support the engine and loosen the motor mount bolts until theres just a few threads showing on the bolt. lower the engine down to the nuts. keep it supported
Last edited by 32krazy!; 11-13-2016 at 05:15 PM.
#119
Honestly, the fork shaft was super easy for me. I zip tied the fork(leaving the zip tie tail) to the PP to hold it and once the shaft was mated I cut the zip tie with long wire cutters while holding the tail so it didn't fall into the bell housing. Took all of 15 minutes once transmission was lined up.