^xlr, yup i did all that. put a new maf in there... reset the codes... and same thing.
when the car turns on, it immediately shoots to 4-5k rpm then slowly comes down... and idles between 400-800 rpm.
when on the highway, it can hold 1.2 bar of boost no problem..

 

I have a UMW tune on my car. The first thing I would have done is to call Kevin. Is there some reason why you don't want to do that?

 

you sure you don't have a boost or intake leak somewhere where the MAF would be getting bad readings?

 

my .02 cents; stop driving the car until you figure out the problem. If you aren't in limp mode right now and are still hitting your target boost and you might have a part failure=not good

we are all merely guessing, i'd do a compression and leakdown test and try to get some info for yourself.

 

i havent driven the car at all since the incident (3 weeks ago)
does anyone have Kevins number ?

its in the shop, im just trying to get some more ideas from fellow members.

 

There is a solenoid, mounted on a bracket, that bolts to the valve cover. It breaks right where the bolts mounts it. When this cracks, the engine misfires...

 

I would check the rubber boot/coupling right after maf sensor. Could have a small tear or maybe not on right. It sounds as if you may be leaking air or vacuum.

 

360-805-9066

 

Keep us posted, curious

 

Vacuum leak is my guess. MAny of the vacuum leaks change to small boost leaks under load and you may not notice the effects of that small of a boost leak. But you would notice a small vacuum leak. Check the two lines on top of your DVs as well as the other vacuum lines in the surrounding areas.

 

boost leaks don't really cause misfires...I haven't had my coffee yet though

 

Some lines on the engine are vacuum at idle and boost under load so when the engine is idling you see missfires like with any vacuum leak, but it goes away under load when boost is present.

 

Yup...lots of one way valves...

 

Try to clean the MAF ?

 

Steve,

To test to see if it is the solenoid tappet or bracket related... go to 4th or higher gear and set the RPMs to 3000 not under boost load and see if you start seeing a CEL light flash on the dash. RPMs might be a few hundered give or take... most likley if this issue is related to such, you will see a flashing CEL light and if its not the solenoid that is bad; then you will not experience limp mode but rather readings through codes making it look like misfires are occuring, hence the flashing CEL light.

Cheers,
Allen