All three are offer different levels of adjustment and associated performance with associated increase in prices. Decide what type of driving your a planning to do, what compromises in ride/noise quality you can accept, and buy accordingly. Err on the side of over buying if there is any doubt in your mind as doing this twice is really expensive. Find a shop that does a lot of these system on Porsches also. (You may need other suspension components depending on what system you choose.) This can range from a $2,500 experience to a $6,000 experience (parts and labor).

 

Absolutly, i'm going to actually narrow it down to the kw-v1 or the H&R P/N#29462.2

What are the advantages/disadvantages of bigger & smaller "mm" wise sway bars for the f/r?

 

I'm not sure exactly what they sell but the model number is 29462-2. Yes, it's off the shelf with no changes. Originally I had adjustable dogbones but those were removed at my last alignment as they were not needed and were a little noisy. The only non OEM part I'm running is the Tarrett rear toe arms. Hope that helps..

 

I think I may have to go with the H&R as well...haven't researched much on the KW V1 - I think most folks on here get the KW V3....but again, I don't need that adjustment on a street car...besides 99% of the guys on here set it and forget it...making it completely useless...besides the way I see it there either street setup like the X73 or H&R or a full on race setup - Ohlins, Penski, JRZ, Moton with at least 4 way adjustment (height, rebound, low and high speed compression) etc...I think the KW V3, PSS9/10, JIC are comprimised setups....in that I mean there is no real "go between setup"...plain and simple. It's either a street car OR a race car, you can never have a chassis optimized for both, it's an either/or situation - any other way then it's a comprimised setup.

When I was racing competatively we would take notes on each track with spring rate changes and damping settings, this is a PROCESS, we havd many sets of springs to swap with a quick change set-up and each track had it's own set of variables and constants...it takes times, LOTS of laps in practice, quali, and during the race, you also need DAQ to do it properly, and it helps to have at the very least a pro-coach or team to help dial it in. Then you are depending on certain variables such as track temp, ambient temp, grip levels, etc...to remain as constants to stay consistant with your settings book under each track and for each set of variables.

 

Swap bars. Thicker sway bars mean less sway. However the trick is to get them to help correct over/understeer. On Porsche AWD Porsche there is a tendency to understeer. Hence a thinner sway bar upfront and thicker in the rear. (I know that sounds counter intuitive but that's just how it works). Adjustable bars allow you to increase or decrease the effective stiffness of the bar. So if you can get adjustable bars so you can fine tune for under/oversteer.

 

Bars and spring rates are definately a good place to start for handling. chassis tend to have some tosional deflection which over time can result in worsened charecteristics. Changing out some of the bushings and mounting points for things like engine and driveline, suspension pickups and subframes can also help. Dialing in dampers takes time and experience (coaching, co-driving, DAq, and seat time really helps here) you can actually go slower if you get this part wrong and a lot of that fine tuning depends on your driving and how you like the car setup in conjunction with what that specific chassis reacts to the best.

 

If you have any doubts about aftermarket systems, just get the X73 package.

 

pss10 comes with a front drop link, I just had one fail (ball popped out) and replaced under warranty.

 

sounds like a good setup...I just sold my X50 turbo and got a GT2 so I will stay with the factory GT2 suspension for a while - if I change it'll probably be Ohlins, JRZ, Motons, or Penske but don't anticiapte doing that if the car is used on the street mostly...

 

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