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Need help with torque values on CV boot install

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Old 05-12-2011 | 06:04 PM
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Need help with torque values on CV boot install

So I am replacing both the front CV boots on the car. I followed Pedro's guide on replacing the CV boots, and have removed the anti-sway bar nut, toe control arm nut, and axle strut nut.

BUT I cannot find anywhere what to torque these nuts back to for the re-install

Pedro's guide:
http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/R...alf_Axles.html

Help?
 
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Old 05-12-2011 | 06:13 PM
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How about page 251-252-253 of the repair manual, may be.....
 
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Last edited by jpflip; 05-12-2011 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:10 PM
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There is a sticky thread with a link to the shop manual right on this forum.
I can read the tiny print of the pic in the post above mine.
So if you can't find the factory torque spec I will offer that I always torques my cv in our race car ( not a 996tt ) to 60 ft lbs

But I would confirm that by finding it in the manual
 
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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:21 PM
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Drive shaft shop states 57.5 ft lbs. Clean threads no grease.
 
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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:49 PM
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Thanks for the help. For some reason I didn't find the section for the torque values I needed (or I didn't know what manual called those parts). I only found the section that covered the CV boot removal which just said tighten to proper torque values. Odd some sections have the torque values in the instructions and some don't.

Appreciate the quick responses, I will be getting back to the car back together.
 

Last edited by statepkt; 05-12-2011 at 08:03 PM. Reason: ,
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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:55 PM
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It is critical to make sure that no grease is on the mating surfaces of the cv as well as in the bolt holes.

If you have grease on the mating surfaces it will allow a pathway for hot grease to leak out when in use. And if there is grease in the bolt holes it will get on the bolt threads when you reinstall them. This can lead to false torque readings and allow the bolts to work themselfs loose.
 
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Old 05-12-2011 | 08:01 PM
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Got it thanks for the pointer. I will be wiping thoroughly and using brake parts cleaner to get all the crap off. I will also use some blue loc-tite on each nut to help keep it more secure
 
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Old 05-12-2011 | 08:12 PM
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What grease are you using ? If you are not using a packing tool you can use a spatula and make sure you get enough in it from both sides.

A Q-tip is useful to clean out the bolt holes.
 
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Old 05-12-2011 | 08:32 PM
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I just bought the OEM CV boot kit, which includes the "OEM" grease??

Comes in a nice tube which looks like it would squeeze right into the joint nicely. Will take note of the spatula idea if needed

Actually I am not planning on taking the joint apart, I am taking the short cut route with this CV boot installer tool:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...ain/ES1899405/

This way i just wipe off as much old grease as I can and then use this tool to put the boot on without disassembling the joint, and then re-fill the joint with new grease.

ONE more question:
What would the axle strut bolt(see picture below) be called in the manual? "Control arm to wheel carrier"??
 

Last edited by statepkt; 05-12-2011 at 09:52 PM. Reason: .
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Old 05-12-2011 | 08:47 PM
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WTF ? Lol.
so you spent $130 to eliminate 1 step of of removing the snap ring that holds the cv on ?

I would send that back. Take the snap ring off the end of the axle, remove the cv, slid the old boot off. Clean the old grease out of the cv and reinstall the new boot and your cv that has been cleaned, inspected and regreased.

If you can do it half assed then you can take a few extra minutes to do a proper job.

If I understand the way that tool work you are going to stretch the small hole the axle goes through enough to fit over the entire cv ? Me thinks that there is a high probality of ripping the boot doing this. if not ripping it at least stretching it to the point that it doesn't properly seal on the axle.

I don't understand why you would want to do it this way. You are at best saving mabe 30 minutes of time and sacrificing cleaning and inspecting the cv while risking damaging the boot.
 
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Old 05-12-2011 | 09:11 PM
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Actually I had that from the toyota car days where removing the axle from the transmission was a pain in the butt. Those c rings on the end caused me to waste about 2 hours worth of prying with a crowbar.

I must admit with the Porsche removing the axle is as simple as removing bolts, so I could definitely do it.

Any ideas on the axle strut bolt name?
 

Last edited by statepkt; 05-12-2011 at 09:42 PM. Reason: ,
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Old 05-12-2011 | 09:53 PM
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In that pic it looks like a ball joint ?

I have to admit to never taking the axle out of a awd Porsche, but I have serviced the Porsche axles and cv's dozens of times in my off road race car. So getting the axle out of the car is not something I have experience doing. However servicing the actual axle and cv is something I would consider myself an expert at.

I would skip the tricky boot tool and just do a proper service on it. You will learn something valuable about your car have the satisfaction of knowing you did the job correctly. And the piece of mind knowing that the cv is fresh and ready for trouble free operation is going to worth it the next time you ripping up some remote canyon.
 
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Old 05-13-2011 | 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Camo_cab
In that pic it looks like a ball joint ?

I have to admit to never taking the axle out of a awd Porsche, but I have serviced the Porsche axles and cv's dozens of times in my off road race car. So getting the axle out of the car is not something I have experience doing. However servicing the actual axle and cv is something I would consider myself an expert at.

I would skip the tricky boot tool and just do a proper service on it. You will learn something valuable about your car have the satisfaction of knowing you did the job correctly. And the piece of mind knowing that the cv is fresh and ready for trouble free operation is going to worth it the next time you ripping up some remote canyon.
The tool is well worth the money if you are doing a lot of axles, and actually required on a lot of axles like mercedes which do not have removable ends. You can still clean out the axle joint with it assembled, re-grease and pack it, and put it back together. The boot will not tear with the tool. With the amount of beating some axles take to get the CV's off the shaft, you are doing far less damage to the joint with this tool. Sure, sometimes joints slide right off.....more often then not on a street car, that is not the case though.

Is it worth spending the money if you aren't a pro who is doing a ton of axles? Probably not. Does it matter.....not really. Any self respecting guy likes cool tools.
 
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