Pros/cons to 1 piece vs. multiple piece wheels (and more questions)
#1
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I'm trying to get a new set of wheels for the Turbo that perform well and are closer to what I like aesthetically. I'm thinking Fikse (FM10) or CCW (C14 and more) from what I've been reading. The idea of a wheel being a single piece is appealing to me over one made up of multiple pieces, but I'm not sure why. I suppose the less parts, bolts and pieces the better in my mind. I don't like visible bolts on the wheels as you normally get with multi-piece wheels, but I see Fikse hides them behind the spokes rather than them being visible on the outside.
In the real world, what are the advantages and disadvantages to a one piece vs a multi piece wheel? I'm going to retain an 18 inch size for multiple reasons.
Also I've always liked BBS wheels but haven't seen any appropriate 1 piece forged wheels for the 996TT.
I've also read many of posts with people using a myriad of different size setups for wheels and tires. What effects on performance do these different sizes have on the car? If one goes to slightly wider front tires, does one need to widen the rears as well to maintain the same ratio front to rear?
For now I'm just focused on getting a good set of 18s for street driving on the stock suspension. I prefer to use no spacers and don't want any rubbing issues whatsoever.
Long post but share your thoughts and enlighten me as I'm new to all this Porsche stuff. My last two vehicles were turbocharged with AWD but used the same size wheels and tires at all four corners, so all of this staggered stuff still perplexes me.
In the real world, what are the advantages and disadvantages to a one piece vs a multi piece wheel? I'm going to retain an 18 inch size for multiple reasons.
Also I've always liked BBS wheels but haven't seen any appropriate 1 piece forged wheels for the 996TT.
I've also read many of posts with people using a myriad of different size setups for wheels and tires. What effects on performance do these different sizes have on the car? If one goes to slightly wider front tires, does one need to widen the rears as well to maintain the same ratio front to rear?
For now I'm just focused on getting a good set of 18s for street driving on the stock suspension. I prefer to use no spacers and don't want any rubbing issues whatsoever.
Long post but share your thoughts and enlighten me as I'm new to all this Porsche stuff. My last two vehicles were turbocharged with AWD but used the same size wheels and tires at all four corners, so all of this staggered stuff still perplexes me.
#2
Strongest wheels are one piece forged. Three piece wheels are heavier (due to all the hardware) but allow the deep outer lip look and allow wheel makers to adjust offset and width using the same center with different inner and outer barrels. They are not as strong but cheaper to repair as you can have a bend barrel replaced. As for tires, keep the overall diameter (or revolutions per mile) as close to stock as possible. This is critical for awd. A 2% front to rear variance is considered acceptable. Use the manufactuers specification for the tire size and not the stated size. As tires get wider they get taller (if you use the same aspect ratio). So always check. Staggering is not too perplexing. Due to all the rear weight basis in a Porsche wider tires are needed in the back to control both the handling and weight. If you want to play it absolutely safe just stick with the stock offset and stock specifications. 18" wheels are lighter (than comparable 19" wheels) and use a taller side wall tire, hence more more forgiving on the street and there is a greater selection of tires. Last bit of advice, do not get chromed wheels. The chrome will corrode between the bead and the wheel causing a bead leak. Also get a nitrogen fill if you can.
Last edited by Duane996tt; 05-14-2011 at 01:51 AM.
#4
Strongest wheels are one piece forged. Three piece wheels are heavier (due to all the hardware) but allow the deep outer lip look and allow wheel makers to adjust offset and width using the same center with different inner and outer barrels. They are not as strong but cheaper to repair as you can have a bend barrel replaced. As for tires, keep the overall diameter (or revolutions per mile) as close to stock as possible. This is critical for awd. A 2% front to rear variance is considered acceptable. Use the manufactuers specification for the tire size and not the stated size. As tires get wider they get taller (if you use the same aspect ratio). So always check. Staggering is not too perplexing. Due to all the rear weight basis in a Porsche wider tires are needed in the back to control both the handling and weight. If you want to play it absolutely safe just stick with the stock offset and stock specifications. 18" wheels are lighter (than comparable 19" wheels) and use a taller side wall tire, hence more more forgiving on the street and there is a greater selection of tires. Last bit of advice, do not get chromed wheels. The chrome will corrode between the bead and the wheel causing a bead leak. Also get a nitrogen fill if you can.
You can also check out Forgestar wheels, for wheels that are flow formed/rotary forged, which results in stronger, lighter wheel at a fraction of the cost.
Best Regards,
Ron
www.ModBargains.com
#5
I agree, good post Duane. Carbon, please give me a call if I can help!
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damon@tirerack.com
877-522-8473 ext. 4643
574-287-2345 ext. 4643
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Or use this link:
http://www.tirerack.com/a.jsp?a=BH1&url=index.jsp
damon@tirerack.com
877-522-8473 ext. 4643
574-287-2345 ext. 4643
**Don't forget to add my name to online orders!**
Or use this link:
http://www.tirerack.com/a.jsp?a=BH1&url=index.jsp
#7
Another thing to keep in mind is that on a 3 piece "forged" wheel, the part that is typically made form forged material is the center. The outer lip and inner barrel are not, and are coincidentally the two areas where the added strength is most usually required. Someone also mentioned 3 piece wheels being the only way to get a lip. Our one-piece forged monoblock wheels replicate the look of 3 piece by having that polished outer lip. The only difference is that our wheels are forged monoblock so they have the weight and strength benefits of any forged wheel.
Our RS98, for example, has a polished outer lip, and is the one of the lightest 19 inch forged wheels available today. Front wheels weigh in at 18.07 lbs for a 8.5 inch wheel. Rear wheels are 19.97 lbs for a 11.5 inch wheel. I these in stock for the 996 turbo too![Wink](https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Our RS98, for example, has a polished outer lip, and is the one of the lightest 19 inch forged wheels available today. Front wheels weigh in at 18.07 lbs for a 8.5 inch wheel. Rear wheels are 19.97 lbs for a 11.5 inch wheel. I these in stock for the 996 turbo too
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#11
They're clearcoated when new. The only time I've seen them without clearcoat is if the wheel's been refinished for some reason.
#13
The 911 I bought came with DCR 19's. The clear coat is peeling on one rim only right around the lug holes. Can I lightly sand (or pay someone to) this area and re clear coat it to smooth it out? The peeling does not bug me, but the gunk, brake dust and such that sticks in the edge is not coming clean. Any suggestions?
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