On Vivid's website: http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/v...5-p-46738.html

it says that the K16g's will be running at the same boost as the stock k16's but will be flowing more air. How's that possible? Have they upgraded the outlet size along with the turbine to be 33% larger to get the additional airflow?

Also, do you think upgraded DVs and Silicone tubing are necessary for a stage 1 tune?

Thanks in advance.

 

stock k16 run out of efficiency at higher boost, you have to pay with hot intaketemperature, high rpm at the turbine wheel...more wear and tear, and turbulenz on compressor and turbinewheel......and at the point the turbulences begin....the result is low airflo

 

^^ +1. I have K24/18g's and make much more HP with .1 bar lower boost! I used to run 1.1 on K16's and now 1.0. Will be more soon! :-)

 

On the K16/16G with a 1.0 bar wastegate, you can run 1.6 bar if you wanted. BlackHorseTurbo piloted his 996TT Tip with K16/16G and Softronic tuning to a 196mph at the Texas Mile and ran a 10.77 in the 1/4. Now if you have the stock boost solenoid working, you would probably only run 1.3bar. If you run the Greddy EBC and race gas, you can crank it up.

It is true that the stock K16 turbos alone are only good up to 1.1-1.2bar.

Here is a 996TT Tip we did with the K16/16G and all the Agency Power bolt ons. Car made 500awhp and 550ft/lbs on a mustang dyno, that is STRONG!

http://www.vividracing.com/blog/gall...94&gallery=495

 

Thanks for your reply. My real question is will you get more HP at the same boost level with the K16g upgrade. I don't really want to go crazy or anything and don't want to go too much further than 550hp at the crank.

This kind of target would still require me to upgrade the turbos along with an FPR, right?

Thanks again.

 

K16/16G with 1.0bar compared to K16 with 1.0bar will make more power. But you need to have the relevant mods. If you are upgrading turbos without having done a ECU flash, exhaust, and DV's, your wasting time as those should be first. The only thing you need to add when you go to the K16/16G to get the most out of them is a 5bar FPR and a tune for it.

 

Thanks again. I was thinking of doing all of the following at the same time:

- K16g Turbo Upgrade
- Exhaust (might do this first)
- 5 bar FPR
- upgraded DVs
- New silicone hoses (including F-Hose)
- iridium plugs (due for new plugs anyway)
- High flow air filter (that may happen earlier)

and then after that taking it into a tuner for a custom ECU tune.
It sounds like that should all do the trick.

 

Unless you've got a tip, add a clutch to that list.

 

Really? I only want to go up to 550 crank... From what I've read, the stock clutch should be fine with that. That's only 430 awhp or so.

 

You can leave your stock clutch till it wears out. Should be ok unless you plan on doing some 5000rpm launching.

As far as those mods, that is a great setup. Dont waste your time with going to a tuner for a "custom" tune. Vivid Racing has proved to have the BEST ECU flash and allows you to read and write via the OBDII cable. The file for your vehicle has been proven and tuned where all that is needed is to change small parameters based on your mods and octane and email you the file. If you want a price on this package, let me know. All is INSTOCK.

 

Forum sponsor 911 Tuning (Markski) has a kit almost exactly like that (Stage 3 996 Turbo kit), and it's very reasonably priced. Might be worth a look.

 

At least budget for it (plus install). In my experience, you'll need one within 5k miles with that setup. It's not hp that kills clutches, it's tq and you'll have plenty of it under the curve with that low spooling turbo.

For what it's worth, I originated this setup with Tony at EPL and no regrets, though many of the vendors here are fine to work with.

 

I've been thoroughly satisfied with my K16/16G which Dan helped me with. I'm running a 5 BAR FPR, Billet DVs, 1 BAR waste gates, a 200 CEL SpeedTech exhaust, and FVD flash. Car made 445 AWHP & 435 Ft-lbs of torque on a Mustang Dyno with 93 octane pump gas. Depending on what conversion factor you elect to use, that's somewhere north of 550 crank HP. Nearly flat torque curve from about 3800 RPM to redline. Boost comes on nice & steady from about 2500 RPM. I'm sure there's more in the car and other software would probably improve on those numbers. However, I DE the car quite a bit and am happy with the overall performance and driveability. Steady boost is 1.1 to 1.2 BAR depending on the temperature and gear selection.

As a side note, I just replaced the plugs and coils in the car. The plugs had about 8k miles of use on them with this set up, including about a dozen DE events. All the plugs looked great in terms of condition and color. No indications of running lean or hot.

 

Glad to hear. Make sure to share some pics on your Brake Upgrade too

 

Actually, that's another question. Is it worth replacing my coils with high energy ones when i change my plugs (i have 25k miles -- and 10 years -- on the car and am thinking of doing the 30k mile service early). What are the advantages of high energy coils?