PCCB questions....
#1
PCCB questions....
Do you guys with PCCB notice squeling on the street with PCCB pads? The previous owner says he has almost new PCCB pads on my car prior to my purchase and they seem to be quite noisy and squeel a lot, wondering if this is normal for PCCB when street driving? Not just when they are cold but all the time on each stop as the car nears a complete stop
Also how should the PCCB rotor look when used on the street? Should there be a little pad residue what looks to be on the rotor....I asked a local shop on how to know if a PCCB rotor needs to be replaced and he said the only way to know is by weighing the rotor and comparing that to the weight of a new unit...is that the only way for sure, I dunno how one can tell by the surface or by thickness measurement like one would do on a conventional steel rotor.
Lastly I know some folks switch to custom steel 2 pc rotors and use non-PCCB pads in their PCCB calipers...how many of you prefer this route? A lot of track guys do this, I was thinking of it but I am mainly driving the car on the street, wondering if it is worth it. Porsche claims that PCCB rotors will last well over 100K miles ... on a street car especially.
thanks for the help
Also how should the PCCB rotor look when used on the street? Should there be a little pad residue what looks to be on the rotor....I asked a local shop on how to know if a PCCB rotor needs to be replaced and he said the only way to know is by weighing the rotor and comparing that to the weight of a new unit...is that the only way for sure, I dunno how one can tell by the surface or by thickness measurement like one would do on a conventional steel rotor.
Lastly I know some folks switch to custom steel 2 pc rotors and use non-PCCB pads in their PCCB calipers...how many of you prefer this route? A lot of track guys do this, I was thinking of it but I am mainly driving the car on the street, wondering if it is worth it. Porsche claims that PCCB rotors will last well over 100K miles ... on a street car especially.
thanks for the help
![Smilie](https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by sunir; 05-23-2011 at 02:29 PM.
#2
I get some light squeaking, rears only. The gen1 rotors flake. that is the dull looking spots. The good rotors do not have directional vanes. They have straight holes, not the cross drilled holes. If the rotors were not so damn light I would not run them.
#3
I think I have the gen 1 on my car it's an '02 GT2 so pretty sure it's the 350mm ones.
what do you mean by non-directional vanes (you mean in the rotor itself for cooling/venting)?
what do you mean by straight holes vs. cross drilled holes?
mine tend to squeel in the fronts I think very loudly and all the time just as the car comes to a halt...
what do you mean by non-directional vanes (you mean in the rotor itself for cooling/venting)?
what do you mean by straight holes vs. cross drilled holes?
mine tend to squeel in the fronts I think very loudly and all the time just as the car comes to a halt...
#4
Looking at the manual there are "vibration dampers" attached into each piston with a retaining spring and a sticky pad to the back of the brake pad.
Parts
(Front Calipers)
Damping plate X12 996-352-086-01
Spring Plate X1 996-351-959-30
Procedure (appx. 1 hr)
1) Jack front of car and remove wheels (remember to use assembly aids to protect PCCB disc)
2) Suck out some brake fluid from the master cylinder with a 50 ml syringe (or turkey baster)
3) Spread pads apart pushing pistons back into calipers (I used a small monkey wrench as a spreader)
4) Disconnect pad wear sensor and open 2 wire ties (attached to brake fluid tube) to get the wire free
5) Remove screw from retaining pin, use a drift pin to push it out. Careful not to damage sensor wires.
6) Pull out 2 pads together, place on bench. Lever out old damper plates out of the 12 pistons with a screwdriver. Use the opportunity to blow out all the brake components with compressed air (use a dust mask and eye protection).
7) Clean the back of the brake pads with alcohol on bench
8) Pull sticky pad off new dampers and push spring side into piston. Note - the ones on the smaller pistons need to have the cutout facing the calipers internal pin or they will be bent
9) Use new spring and pin, pass pad sensor in retainer in spring (note orientation of spring., one side of car is reversed from the other.
10) Put pads back being careful to hug the disc, push spring in and replace retaining pin. Ensure pads are seated, install screw on retainer and torque to 25 Nm
11) Pump brake pedal to reseat break pads and allow sticky pads to adhere.
12) Top up brake fluid, replace wheels (torque to 97
Parts
(Front Calipers)
Damping plate X12 996-352-086-01
Spring Plate X1 996-351-959-30
Procedure (appx. 1 hr)
1) Jack front of car and remove wheels (remember to use assembly aids to protect PCCB disc)
2) Suck out some brake fluid from the master cylinder with a 50 ml syringe (or turkey baster)
3) Spread pads apart pushing pistons back into calipers (I used a small monkey wrench as a spreader)
4) Disconnect pad wear sensor and open 2 wire ties (attached to brake fluid tube) to get the wire free
5) Remove screw from retaining pin, use a drift pin to push it out. Careful not to damage sensor wires.
6) Pull out 2 pads together, place on bench. Lever out old damper plates out of the 12 pistons with a screwdriver. Use the opportunity to blow out all the brake components with compressed air (use a dust mask and eye protection).
7) Clean the back of the brake pads with alcohol on bench
8) Pull sticky pad off new dampers and push spring side into piston. Note - the ones on the smaller pistons need to have the cutout facing the calipers internal pin or they will be bent
9) Use new spring and pin, pass pad sensor in retainer in spring (note orientation of spring., one side of car is reversed from the other.
10) Put pads back being careful to hug the disc, push spring in and replace retaining pin. Ensure pads are seated, install screw on retainer and torque to 25 Nm
11) Pump brake pedal to reseat break pads and allow sticky pads to adhere.
12) Top up brake fluid, replace wheels (torque to 97
Last edited by 9Eleven; 05-23-2011 at 03:04 PM.
#5
Looking at the manual there are "vibration dampers" attached into each piston with a retaining spring and a sticky pad to the back of the brake pad.
Parts
(Front Calipers)
Damping plate X12 996-352-086-01
Spring Plate X1 996-351-959-30
Procedure (appx. 1 hr)
1) Jack front of car and remove wheels (remember to use assembly aids to protect PCCB disc)
2) Suck out some brake fluid from the master cylinder with a 50 ml syringe (or turkey baster)
3) Spread pads apart pushing pistons back into calipers (I used a small monkey wrench as a spreader)
4) Disconnect pad wear sensor and open 2 wire ties (attached to brake fluid tube) to get the wire free
5) Remove screw from retaining pin, use a drift pin to push it out. Careful not to damage sensor wires.
6) Pull out 2 pads together, place on bench. Lever out old damper plates out of the 12 pistons with a screwdriver. Use the opportunity to blow out all the brake components with compressed air (use a dust mask and eye protection).
7) Clean the back of the brake pads with alcohol on bench
8) Pull sticky pad off new dampers and push spring side into piston. Note - the ones on the smaller pistons need to have the cutout facing the calipers internal pin or they will be bent
9) Use new spring and pin, pass pad sensor in retainer in spring (note orientation of spring., one side of car is reversed from the other.
10) Put pads back being careful to hug the disc, push spring in and replace retaining pin. Ensure pads are seated, install screw on retainer and torque to 25 Nm
11) Pump brake pedal to reseat break pads and allow sticky pads to adhere.
12) Top up brake fluid, replace wheels (torque to 97
Parts
(Front Calipers)
Damping plate X12 996-352-086-01
Spring Plate X1 996-351-959-30
Procedure (appx. 1 hr)
1) Jack front of car and remove wheels (remember to use assembly aids to protect PCCB disc)
2) Suck out some brake fluid from the master cylinder with a 50 ml syringe (or turkey baster)
3) Spread pads apart pushing pistons back into calipers (I used a small monkey wrench as a spreader)
4) Disconnect pad wear sensor and open 2 wire ties (attached to brake fluid tube) to get the wire free
5) Remove screw from retaining pin, use a drift pin to push it out. Careful not to damage sensor wires.
6) Pull out 2 pads together, place on bench. Lever out old damper plates out of the 12 pistons with a screwdriver. Use the opportunity to blow out all the brake components with compressed air (use a dust mask and eye protection).
7) Clean the back of the brake pads with alcohol on bench
8) Pull sticky pad off new dampers and push spring side into piston. Note - the ones on the smaller pistons need to have the cutout facing the calipers internal pin or they will be bent
9) Use new spring and pin, pass pad sensor in retainer in spring (note orientation of spring., one side of car is reversed from the other.
10) Put pads back being careful to hug the disc, push spring in and replace retaining pin. Ensure pads are seated, install screw on retainer and torque to 25 Nm
11) Pump brake pedal to reseat break pads and allow sticky pads to adhere.
12) Top up brake fluid, replace wheels (torque to 97
#6
Pccb front rotor thickness new = 34mm, minimum thickness = 33.5mm, as per Porsche repair manual
Do you guys with PCCB notice squeling on the street with PCCB pads? The previous owner says he has almost new PCCB pads on my car prior to my purchase and they seem to be quite noisy and squeel a lot, wondering if this is normal for PCCB when street driving? Not just when they are cold but all the time on each stop as the car nears a complete stop
Also how should the PCCB rotor look when used on the street? Should there be a little pad residue what looks to be on the rotor....I asked a local shop on how to know if a PCCB rotor needs to be replaced and he said the only way to know is by weighing the rotor and comparing that to the weight of a new unit...is that the only way for sure, I dunno how one can tell by the surface or by thickness measurement like one would do on a conventional steel rotor.
Lastly I know some folks switch to custom steel 2 pc rotors and use non-PCCB pads in their PCCB calipers...how many of you prefer this route? A lot of track guys do this, I was thinking of it but I am mainly driving the car on the street, wondering if it is worth it. Porsche claims that PCCB rotors will last well over 100K miles ... on a street car especially.
thanks for the help![Smilie](https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Also how should the PCCB rotor look when used on the street? Should there be a little pad residue what looks to be on the rotor....I asked a local shop on how to know if a PCCB rotor needs to be replaced and he said the only way to know is by weighing the rotor and comparing that to the weight of a new unit...is that the only way for sure, I dunno how one can tell by the surface or by thickness measurement like one would do on a conventional steel rotor.
Lastly I know some folks switch to custom steel 2 pc rotors and use non-PCCB pads in their PCCB calipers...how many of you prefer this route? A lot of track guys do this, I was thinking of it but I am mainly driving the car on the street, wondering if it is worth it. Porsche claims that PCCB rotors will last well over 100K miles ... on a street car especially.
thanks for the help
![Smilie](https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#7
mine squeek as well. although not all the time.
as for the Gen 1 vs. Gen 2 - here is how to tell:
Gen 1 rotor:
![](http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/anotherGT2/PCCB-1.jpg)
Vs Gen2 rotor:
as for the Gen 1 vs. Gen 2 - here is how to tell:
Gen 1 rotor:
![](http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/anotherGT2/PCCB-1.jpg)
Vs Gen2 rotor:
![](http://brrperformance.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/BRR-GT3-PCCB-fr-face-sm.jpg)
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#8
Yup I def have Gen1 PCCB on my '02 GT2 which makes sense (the car is an '02)
Mine look a little splotchy and squeel a bit (when the car is just close to making a full stop) ... it's quite all un until the last moment prior to actually stopping where it squeels and sqeaks...
Should I pop the pads out and check them (they have plenty of meat but maybe they are old ones or if nothing else would be good to cross check the part numbers right?)
thanks fellas
Mine look a little splotchy and squeel a bit (when the car is just close to making a full stop) ... it's quite all un until the last moment prior to actually stopping where it squeels and sqeaks...
Should I pop the pads out and check them (they have plenty of meat but maybe they are old ones or if nothing else would be good to cross check the part numbers right?)
thanks fellas
![Smilie](https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#9
The second rotor looks like a 997 rotor.
#12
I just talked to Rick at Suncoast yesterday and he told me that there were upgraded part numbers for replacements on my car which probably means that Porsche has replaced the Gen 1 with Gen 2 rotors...
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