Oil Change Questions for TT
#1
Oil Change Questions for TT
I have a couple of questions, one I think is a good question, the other may be a dumb one.
1) In the DIY on Renntech.org (awesome site), it doesn't describe draining oil from the Turbos themselves, but only the 2 bolts on the engine.
My dealer told me to get an 8mm Allan Wrench to drain each Turbo. Is that necessary? If so, should it be added to the DIY site?
2) The oil should be at operating temperature before the change. Do I need to wear some gloves before loosening the bolts? I'm afraid of 180 degree oil getting on my hands.
Lastly, if the car is on ramps, should I jack up the front end so that the car is level while draining?
TIA
1) In the DIY on Renntech.org (awesome site), it doesn't describe draining oil from the Turbos themselves, but only the 2 bolts on the engine.
My dealer told me to get an 8mm Allan Wrench to drain each Turbo. Is that necessary? If so, should it be added to the DIY site?
2) The oil should be at operating temperature before the change. Do I need to wear some gloves before loosening the bolts? I'm afraid of 180 degree oil getting on my hands.
Lastly, if the car is on ramps, should I jack up the front end so that the car is level while draining?
TIA
#2
Great questions. I would also like to add that a dipstick would be really nice so we could check the oil level when filling after a change.
The only way to check is to start the engine and if you don't have enough oil in there yet, you could do some damage. Something to show if you're in the ballpark would be nice.
The only way to check is to start the engine and if you don't have enough oil in there yet, you could do some damage. Something to show if you're in the ballpark would be nice.
#3
Agree totally about the dipstick. I guess being a dry sump makes that not possible.
Well, I'm going to put about 8.5 liters in it as specified and hope for the best. This raised another question, how mahy quarts is that???
Well, I'm going to put about 8.5 liters in it as specified and hope for the best. This raised another question, how mahy quarts is that???
#5
Scott,
Hope this helps. BTW, with an oil filter change, you should be using 8.5 quarts. If run at 50 degrees and above, you have the option of using 0-40, 5-40 or 5-50 weight oils.
- The amount of oil that comes out of the turbo reservoirs is miniscule. I drain those as well because I am **** about it. If it were to remain, its small quantity would not have any impact on the much larger fill quantity.
- The point of bringing the oil up to operating temp is to allow it to flow out of the engine and tank more freely. It will speed up the process. If the oil is not heated, it will still flow, just more slowly. Gravity will eventually get it out. I generally let it drain while I am doing something else and when I no longer see an oil stream, its done.
Hope this helps. BTW, with an oil filter change, you should be using 8.5 quarts. If run at 50 degrees and above, you have the option of using 0-40, 5-40 or 5-50 weight oils.
#6
Thanks Ken! Well, I'm going to do the oil change and brakes on Saturday and don't have too much to waste, so I will probably heat it up. Maybe I'll just get garden gloves just in case.
As for the 8.5 quarts is 8.9 liters. Is that too much?
As for the 8.5 quarts is 8.9 liters. Is that too much?
#7
Oil change quantity with filter change = 8.5 quarts=8 liters
Oil change quantity without filter change=8.2 quarts=7.8 liters
Page 206 of the owner's manual.
Oil change quantity without filter change=8.2 quarts=7.8 liters
Page 206 of the owner's manual.
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#8
LOL! The RTFM card... and played correctly. I'm just sitting here on my PC while my manual is down in the trunk of my car all the way in the garage! It's so much easier to have people on the internet answer it. lol
Sorry.
Thanks Ken. You da man.
Sorry.
Thanks Ken. You da man.
#11
Hi Scott,
Among the Renntech oil change posts is one from me on my first oil change. If you are changing the filter, make sure you have something nearby (like a turkey baster) to catch and release the oil that escapes when you remove the filter. In my case, there was just a little bit more than the guard could catch, and you don't want it falling on a hot engine.
No need to drain the turbos (the dealer doesn't). With or without draining them, you are still only changing just over half the oil in the system (the rest is in the hoses and places that don't drain). I think of TT oil as being like 50 year old port, where they put the new port in the top of the barrel, drain some for bottling from the bottom, and in theory there is some port in there from the first batch ever. Except that I don't want to drink any of the old engine oil.
Finally, make sure you have a socket big enough to fit the filter removal tool onto your torque wrench (it takes something like a 27mm socket). The torque on the oil tank is less than on the engine case, BTW, but I will assume you know all that from the Renntech posts.
Among the Renntech oil change posts is one from me on my first oil change. If you are changing the filter, make sure you have something nearby (like a turkey baster) to catch and release the oil that escapes when you remove the filter. In my case, there was just a little bit more than the guard could catch, and you don't want it falling on a hot engine.
No need to drain the turbos (the dealer doesn't). With or without draining them, you are still only changing just over half the oil in the system (the rest is in the hoses and places that don't drain). I think of TT oil as being like 50 year old port, where they put the new port in the top of the barrel, drain some for bottling from the bottom, and in theory there is some port in there from the first batch ever. Except that I don't want to drink any of the old engine oil.
Finally, make sure you have a socket big enough to fit the filter removal tool onto your torque wrench (it takes something like a 27mm socket). The torque on the oil tank is less than on the engine case, BTW, but I will assume you know all that from the Renntech posts.
#12
Scott -
I know the owner's manual states the oil quantity required post oil change, but why not just pour the drained oil into a container that has measurement marks on it to be sure.
Also, did you buy the oil filter housing "removal tool" from Porsche?
I plan on placing the front wheels on ramps, and the rear on jack stands just to keep the car level during the oil change.
I know the owner's manual states the oil quantity required post oil change, but why not just pour the drained oil into a container that has measurement marks on it to be sure.
Also, did you buy the oil filter housing "removal tool" from Porsche?
I plan on placing the front wheels on ramps, and the rear on jack stands just to keep the car level during the oil change.
#13
Most auto parts stores have a good enough quality oil filter cap removal tool for $5-7. I saw a Pennzoil brand steel one at PepBoys. It's a standard size, same as a VW Jetta diesel filter, among others.
According to the manual you need to change the oil every 15k and the filter every 30K. You'll probably want to change the oil more frequently, but it should be OK to change the filter every other oil change.
If I remember right my car took less than 8 quarts to fill. I'd add 6 quarts then check the level.
According to the manual you need to change the oil every 15k and the filter every 30K. You'll probably want to change the oil more frequently, but it should be OK to change the filter every other oil change.
If I remember right my car took less than 8 quarts to fill. I'd add 6 quarts then check the level.