Alignment today, but why to toe out?
Alignment today, but why to toe out?
#3
06-15-2011, 09:15 AM
I'm no expert but that doesn't look right to me. My shop caters to track guys and they set my rear toe at 0 degrees 12 minutes toe in, and front at 0 degrees 3 minutes toe in. Some guys prefer a small amount of toe out at the front to aid turn in at the track, but it makes the car tend to be darty or skittish on the street. Toe out in the rear of a 911 type car is a no-no, makes the car unstable.
Last edited by landjet; 06-15-2011 at 09:19 AM.
#4
06-15-2011, 09:50 AM
I'm no expert but that doesn't look right to me. My shop caters to track guys and they set my rear toe at 0 degrees 12 minutes toe in, and front at 0 degrees 3 minutes toe in. Some guys prefer a small amount of toe out at the front to aid turn in at the track, but it makes the car tend to be darty or skittish on the street. Toe out in the rear of a 911 type car is a no-no, makes the car unstable.
#6
06-15-2011, 10:18 AM
The top of the document is cut off but it appears that the upper values are for the front axle since the lower is titled "rear".
Since the toe readings are in mm but the "set back" is in degrees, it looks to me like they set -0 deg 15 min in the front and +0 deg 10 min in the rear.
That sound correct. But again, I'm assuming the upper part is the front settings.
Since the toe readings are in mm but the "set back" is in degrees, it looks to me like they set -0 deg 15 min in the front and +0 deg 10 min in the rear.
That sound correct. But again, I'm assuming the upper part is the front settings.
#7
06-15-2011, 10:36 AM
The top of the document is cut off but it appears that the upper values are for the front axle since the lower is titled "rear".
Since the toe readings are in mm but the "set back" is in degrees, it looks to me like they set -0 deg 15 min in the front and +0 deg 10 min in the rear.
That sound correct. But again, I'm assuming the upper part is the front settings.
Since the toe readings are in mm but the "set back" is in degrees, it looks to me like they set -0 deg 15 min in the front and +0 deg 10 min in the rear.
That sound correct. But again, I'm assuming the upper part is the front settings.
What you mean is + 2.17 and + 3.26 mm toe is correct in the rear?
Besides, the front tow is in + but not in -, the right table is the final result of the adjustment.
Last edited by boyg; 06-15-2011 at 10:43 AM.
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#9
06-15-2011, 01:15 PM
Depending on your intended use for the Car, your toe values should be :
For aggressive, fast drivers for trackdays, you want:
Rear toe IN of about 1/16th to 1/8th (I am doing this in inches) this helps under hard braking, because the rear wheels tend to spread .. If you have toe IN at the rear, when the rears spread, it pulls them straight.
Front toe OUT of 1/16th.. Toe OUT helps the front end turn the Car quicker. It makes it a bit less stable in a straight line, but at the track getting the front end to turn quickly is important vs a little lack of straight line stability.
For general street driving, less aggressive will work:
Leave the rear at 1/16th toe IN
At the front, you might want to go zero toe, or slight toe IN to help the Car stay composed in a straight line; you will need to do less work at the steering wheel with these settings and the Car will do less tramlining and not react to bumps.
Here's my settings from a few trackdays ago: It shows rear toe IN of 1/16th and front toe OUT of 1/16th.. I have recently gone to 1/8th toe OUT at the front.
Bear in mind that these settings interact with your camber and caster figures: Less camber means the effects are slightly less than with more camber.
For aggressive, fast drivers for trackdays, you want:
Rear toe IN of about 1/16th to 1/8th (I am doing this in inches) this helps under hard braking, because the rear wheels tend to spread .. If you have toe IN at the rear, when the rears spread, it pulls them straight.
Front toe OUT of 1/16th.. Toe OUT helps the front end turn the Car quicker. It makes it a bit less stable in a straight line, but at the track getting the front end to turn quickly is important vs a little lack of straight line stability.
For general street driving, less aggressive will work:
Leave the rear at 1/16th toe IN
At the front, you might want to go zero toe, or slight toe IN to help the Car stay composed in a straight line; you will need to do less work at the steering wheel with these settings and the Car will do less tramlining and not react to bumps.
Here's my settings from a few trackdays ago: It shows rear toe IN of 1/16th and front toe OUT of 1/16th.. I have recently gone to 1/8th toe OUT at the front.
Bear in mind that these settings interact with your camber and caster figures: Less camber means the effects are slightly less than with more camber.
#10
06-15-2011, 01:38 PM
Good info!
Depending on your intended use for the Car, your toe values should be :
For aggressive, fast drivers for trackdays, you want:
Rear toe IN of about 1/16th to 1/8th (I am doing this in inches) this helps under hard braking, because the rear wheels tend to spread .. If you have toe IN at the rear, when the rears spread, it pulls them straight.
Front toe OUT of 1/16th.. Toe OUT helps the front end turn the Car quicker. It makes it a bit less stable in a straight line, but at the track getting the front end to turn quickly is important vs a little lack of straight line stability.
For general street driving, less aggressive will work:
Leave the rear at 1/16th toe IN
At the front, you might want to go zero toe, or slight toe IN to help the Car stay composed in a straight line; you will need to do less work at the steering wheel with these settings and the Car will do less tramlining and not react to bumps.
Here's my settings from a few trackdays ago: It shows rear toe IN of 1/16th and front toe OUT of 1/16th.. I have recently gone to 1/8th toe OUT at the front.
Bear in mind that these settings interact with your camber and caster figures: Less camber means the effects are slightly less than with more camber.
For aggressive, fast drivers for trackdays, you want:
Rear toe IN of about 1/16th to 1/8th (I am doing this in inches) this helps under hard braking, because the rear wheels tend to spread .. If you have toe IN at the rear, when the rears spread, it pulls them straight.
Front toe OUT of 1/16th.. Toe OUT helps the front end turn the Car quicker. It makes it a bit less stable in a straight line, but at the track getting the front end to turn quickly is important vs a little lack of straight line stability.
For general street driving, less aggressive will work:
Leave the rear at 1/16th toe IN
At the front, you might want to go zero toe, or slight toe IN to help the Car stay composed in a straight line; you will need to do less work at the steering wheel with these settings and the Car will do less tramlining and not react to bumps.
Here's my settings from a few trackdays ago: It shows rear toe IN of 1/16th and front toe OUT of 1/16th.. I have recently gone to 1/8th toe OUT at the front.
Bear in mind that these settings interact with your camber and caster figures: Less camber means the effects are slightly less than with more camber.
#11
06-15-2011, 01:49 PM
You need to read this thread. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...light=rear+toe
As you lower the car and negative camber increases so does toe out. It's due to the configuration of the suspension components.
As you lower the car and negative camber increases so does toe out. It's due to the configuration of the suspension components.
#13
06-15-2011, 08:44 PM
Depending on your intended use for the Car, your toe values should be :
For aggressive, fast drivers for trackdays, you want:
Rear toe IN of about 1/16th to 1/8th (I am doing this in inches) this helps under hard braking, because the rear wheels tend to spread .. If you have toe IN at the rear, when the rears spread, it pulls them straight.
Front toe OUT of 1/16th.. Toe OUT helps the front end turn the Car quicker. It makes it a bit less stable in a straight line, but at the track getting the front end to turn quickly is important vs a little lack of straight line stability.
For general street driving, less aggressive will work:
Leave the rear at 1/16th toe IN
At the front, you might want to go zero toe, or slight toe IN to help the Car stay composed in a straight line; you will need to do less work at the steering wheel with these settings and the Car will do less tramlining and not react to bumps.
Here's my settings from a few trackdays ago: It shows rear toe IN of 1/16th and front toe OUT of 1/16th.. I have recently gone to 1/8th toe OUT at the front.
Bear in mind that these settings interact with your camber and caster figures: Less camber means the effects are slightly less than with more camber.
For aggressive, fast drivers for trackdays, you want:
Rear toe IN of about 1/16th to 1/8th (I am doing this in inches) this helps under hard braking, because the rear wheels tend to spread .. If you have toe IN at the rear, when the rears spread, it pulls them straight.
Front toe OUT of 1/16th.. Toe OUT helps the front end turn the Car quicker. It makes it a bit less stable in a straight line, but at the track getting the front end to turn quickly is important vs a little lack of straight line stability.
For general street driving, less aggressive will work:
Leave the rear at 1/16th toe IN
At the front, you might want to go zero toe, or slight toe IN to help the Car stay composed in a straight line; you will need to do less work at the steering wheel with these settings and the Car will do less tramlining and not react to bumps.
Here's my settings from a few trackdays ago: It shows rear toe IN of 1/16th and front toe OUT of 1/16th.. I have recently gone to 1/8th toe OUT at the front.
Bear in mind that these settings interact with your camber and caster figures: Less camber means the effects are slightly less than with more camber.
#14
06-15-2011, 08:46 PM
You need to read this thread. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...light=rear+toe
As you lower the car and negative camber increases so does toe out. It's due to the configuration of the suspension components.
As you lower the car and negative camber increases so does toe out. It's due to the configuration of the suspension components.
