Help with 3M plastic clear bar film removal - need advice
#16
So here's what I ended up doing. I used a steamer to remove the plastic while spraying a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water. As I mentioned in my first post, almost all of the glue separated from the plastic staying on the paint. I tried both long and short exposures of the steam but it made no difference, the glue separated from the plastic. I picked up the 3M adhesive remover...no luck at all. Tried a 50/50 diluted mixture of alcohol and water...no luck. Tried the 50/50 diluted mixture of vinegar and water...no luck. Tried full strength mineral spirits, which did take off most of the upper layer of glue but a thin layer remained. This thin layer was very hard...most likely due to UV baking it over the years. Last resort...gasoline. This took the thin layer off with a lot of elbow grease. After working a small area I would wiped it down with water that had baking soda in it. After everything was said and done the clear coat was not effected. The clear film was applied to the Boxster S 4 years ago.
I was not so lucky when I removed the clear film from my turbo, which had been on the car for 5 years. I removed it because it had begun to discolor quite a bit. When I removed it there were several large areas where the glue had penetrated into the clear coat and in some areas into the paint! Now I'm looking at a paint job. This is why I removed it from the Boxster S. I was afraid that we would have the same problem with the glue invading the paint. Fortunately, it had not effected the clear coat on the Boxster S. Another thing that resulted from this film, which effective both cars, was an indented line being left in the clear coat where the edge of the clear film ended. Both cars have this line that goes across the hood. They are faint but you can see them. 3M clear film was used on both cars. Needless to say, I will never use this product again after experiencing what it did to the paint on both cars, which are seal gray in color.
I was not so lucky when I removed the clear film from my turbo, which had been on the car for 5 years. I removed it because it had begun to discolor quite a bit. When I removed it there were several large areas where the glue had penetrated into the clear coat and in some areas into the paint! Now I'm looking at a paint job. This is why I removed it from the Boxster S. I was afraid that we would have the same problem with the glue invading the paint. Fortunately, it had not effected the clear coat on the Boxster S. Another thing that resulted from this film, which effective both cars, was an indented line being left in the clear coat where the edge of the clear film ended. Both cars have this line that goes across the hood. They are faint but you can see them. 3M clear film was used on both cars. Needless to say, I will never use this product again after experiencing what it did to the paint on both cars, which are seal gray in color.
#17
I think the new technology films are working to resolve these issues. The Avery nano film I have on my GT2 is one of latest products and is said to be much more pliable, resistant to discoloration and scratching as well as being thinner and more invisable. From the pics I've posted you cannot tell it's on there at all.
I've heard good things about the high perfromance Venture Product and the latest 3M scotchguard...not sure what to say about XPel or RoadBlock those products may have been absorbed by the larger brands thru consolidations.
#18
clear bra has been around for the better part of a decase...the old film technology on into the middle of the decade showed issues with discoloration and adhesive excess bonding...
I think the new technology films are working to resolve these issues. The Avery nano film I have on my GT2 is one of latest products and is said to be much more pliable, resistant to discoloration and scratching as well as being thinner and more invisable. From the pics I've posted you cannot tell it's on there at all.
I've heard good things about the high perfromance Venture Product and the latest 3M scotchguard...not sure what to say about XPel or RoadBlock those products may have been absorbed by the larger brands thru consolidations.
I think the new technology films are working to resolve these issues. The Avery nano film I have on my GT2 is one of latest products and is said to be much more pliable, resistant to discoloration and scratching as well as being thinner and more invisable. From the pics I've posted you cannot tell it's on there at all.
I've heard good things about the high perfromance Venture Product and the latest 3M scotchguard...not sure what to say about XPel or RoadBlock those products may have been absorbed by the larger brands thru consolidations.
#19
I would guess the adhesive went down into the paint due to the use of mineral spirits and gasoline... Otherwise the 3M adhesive is not going to break down the paint and allow that. We have taken vinyl off many old vehicles and never had an issue like that...
Here is what we use (orange peel):
http://www.signwarehouse.com/FL-RE-p-FL-PEEL-1GL.html
Here is what we use (orange peel):
http://www.signwarehouse.com/FL-RE-p-FL-PEEL-1GL.html
#20
I would only suggest that if you are going to apply this film, or have already applied it, that you keep an close eye on any sight discoloration that may be taking place in order to avoid having problems like the ones that I've had. I'm sure it's a good produce, I just wouldn't go years before replacing it.
#21
The solution!
Hey guys the solution is so simple it's almost ridiculous .
The short version is, use hot water to make the film soft and just peel the damn thing of while watering .
Here's the long version...
Get a hoze with WARM/HOT running water (cold will NOT work).
With low pressure/flow, hose down the section of film ya want to remove for about a min.
Grab a corner and start gently peeling away at it while using the warm water on it.
Once you have a section going concentrate the watering on an area no more than 24" from where you're pulling , make sure to get both the top as well as where the film is separating from the surface.
The key is to let the warm water do all the work, the film will come off relatively easy (compared to without hot water ) but don't be in a rush cause you'll pull faster than the hot water can do it's job.
If ya find you're fighting it just use more.... yep, hot water .
When the whole film is removed there will be as good as no residual adhesive left!
Just wash your ride and you're good to go.
Good luck fellas!
Cheers,
Sid.
The short version is, use hot water to make the film soft and just peel the damn thing of while watering .
Here's the long version...
Get a hoze with WARM/HOT running water (cold will NOT work).
With low pressure/flow, hose down the section of film ya want to remove for about a min.
Grab a corner and start gently peeling away at it while using the warm water on it.
Once you have a section going concentrate the watering on an area no more than 24" from where you're pulling , make sure to get both the top as well as where the film is separating from the surface.
The key is to let the warm water do all the work, the film will come off relatively easy (compared to without hot water ) but don't be in a rush cause you'll pull faster than the hot water can do it's job.
If ya find you're fighting it just use more.... yep, hot water .
When the whole film is removed there will be as good as no residual adhesive left!
Just wash your ride and you're good to go.
Good luck fellas!
Cheers,
Sid.
#22
Hey guys the solution is so simple it's almost ridiculous .
The short version is, use hot water to make the film soft and just peel the damn thing of while watering .
Here's the long version...
Get a hoze with WARM/HOT running water (cold will NOT work).
With low pressure/flow, hose down the section of film ya want to remove for about a min.
Grab a corner and start gently peeling away at it while using the warm water on it.
Once you have a section going concentrate the watering on an area no more than 24" from where you're pulling , make sure to get both the top as well as where the film is separating from the surface.
The key is to let the warm water do all the work, the film will come off relatively easy (compared to without hot water ) but don't be in a rush cause you'll pull faster than the hot water can do it's job.
If ya find you're fighting it just use more.... yep, hot water .
When the whole film is removed there will be as good as no residual adhesive left!
Just wash your ride and you're good to go.
Good luck fellas!
Cheers,
Sid.
The short version is, use hot water to make the film soft and just peel the damn thing of while watering .
Here's the long version...
Get a hoze with WARM/HOT running water (cold will NOT work).
With low pressure/flow, hose down the section of film ya want to remove for about a min.
Grab a corner and start gently peeling away at it while using the warm water on it.
Once you have a section going concentrate the watering on an area no more than 24" from where you're pulling , make sure to get both the top as well as where the film is separating from the surface.
The key is to let the warm water do all the work, the film will come off relatively easy (compared to without hot water ) but don't be in a rush cause you'll pull faster than the hot water can do it's job.
If ya find you're fighting it just use more.... yep, hot water .
When the whole film is removed there will be as good as no residual adhesive left!
Just wash your ride and you're good to go.
Good luck fellas!
Cheers,
Sid.
Purchase a heat gun. Warm up a corner of the film until you can get the corner up and have a good purchase on the film. Then just move the heat gun over the next 6" or so of film to be removed, and keep it at least 6" away from the surface. The film will release easily and you'll have no residue to deal with. If you do have a few spots of adhesive left, they should be easily removed with bug/tar remover.
I have used the above method on three vehicles and it's worked well every time. Just don't burn yourself on the heat gun 'barrel'; those bloody things get hot! lol
Bish
#26
This problem is mainly with 3M. Their adhesive is very agressive. I do not install 3M mainly because of the adhesive issues as well as the film has a lot of orange peel in it. It looks terrible, is a PITA t oremove, and does not install well either. I have also seen it crack in hot weather after a couple of years. 3M uses an acrylic topcoat... acrylic does not stretch with the film and cause very small cracks in the topcoat. Over time those cracks get larger. I really like VentureShield Ultra and the new Avery Nano Fusion films. Go with either of those and these problems will not be there.
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