Thank mate, appreciate it

 

your welcome.
At the very least get your fuel pressure tested. that U bend pipe in the pump , due to the severity of the bend, and age, can and does split. This drops your fuel pressure.
I am surprised it doesnt attempt a kick when you try to start the car. With a split fuel hose there is a little pressure at the injectors, so the engine normally gets enought fuel to make it splutter
Presume you have checked the pump fuse and DME fuses ??

Codes would be a good thing to know as well.

 

Yeah, I've checked the fuses
I even pulled them all just to be doubly certain

The obc now tells me to check fuel level, but I'm guessing that's because I pulled the fuse

There's no spluttering or jumping at all, it just swings over

I don't actually expect anyone to be able to diagnose the fault without any codes
I thought I'd start the thread so it might be useful if this sort of thing happens to anybody else in the future

Unfortunately, when it comes to modern cars I'm an idiot
Give me some carbs and a distributor and I'm in my element

 

This might sound a bit simple, but, have you had the battery disconnected lately, by which I mean before it broke down. I ask , because the fuel gauge is not like the old style of gauge. If you disconnect the battery with less than 1/2 a tank of fuel, it will not read correctly. The low level fuel light will not work either. So are you sure you have fuel in the car, irrespective of what the gauge says??
With less than 1/2 a tank of fuel the DME works out what is in the tank, it does not use the sender unit in the tank, it predicts the fuel level and moves the gauge in the dash accordingly.

 

Good info - thanks!

I haven't had the battery disconnected for a couple of months

I filled the car up with fuel last week
I don't do many miles, so a tank normally lasts me a month

The computer said ~150miles remaining when I stopped

I'm going to put a couple of jerry cans of fuel in though, that way I can eliminate that as a factor

 

I've composed a list of possibilities for my non-starting

I thought I'd do this incase my car doesn't throw any codes, and also in order to help other members in the future should the same thing happen to their cars

Here's my list so far;

Fuel Pump
DME Fuel Pump Relay
Coil Packs
Crank Sensor
Starter Motor
Ignition Switch

Any others I should add?

 

Fuel pump probable, get pressure checked.
DME Fuel pump relay possible, check relay and bypass to run pump.
Coil Packs, all 6 ....improbable.
Crank Sensor, never looked into that issue, but could be?
Starter motor , No as it turns over......doesn't it?? !!
Ignition switch, unlikely as they throw a lot more issues when they fail.

first.............codes
second........fuel pressure check or check pump & piping
third............pull a coil pack off and use an old plug held to the block to check for a spark.

You really do need to get some codes though.
Frank

 

Yeah, I'm ordering the durametric in the morning
Just messing around in the meantime

 

Got your PM.
Keep ion touch,
Frank.

 

Ok guys, my durametric is on order, but I'm getting impatient

What checks can I do in the meantime whilst waiting for my durametric to arrive?

The car is on charge and has a full tank of petrol.....

 

OK Guys,

Can somebody tell me how to use my Durametric?

I think i'm doing it right, but nothing has shown up - just some errors for the alarm


I've got the car on charge - instrument cluster shows as 12 volts
Ignition turned on
Durametric plugged in
Click "Functions" in the top tab bar
Click "Short Test All Modules"

What else do I need to do?

 

Looks like I didn't check all the boxes before running the tests......

This time I've ticked the boxes for the ABS/PSM and the Instrument Cluster and have gotten the following.......


ABS/PSM 5.7
Current Fault Codes

5522:
DME: CAN message missing

4276:
Valve supply voltage


Instrument Cluster K21
Current Fault Codes


9110:
DME control unit


9111:
PSM/ABS control unit


Those codes have a red exclamation mark next to them
The central locking and alarm codes say they're for information purposes only, and have a yellow excalamation mark next to them


Should I clear the codes and then retry again, or would this cause more problems?

I'm using the Version 6 Beta software

 

Fault code 5522

DME: CAN message missing 1

Diagnostic conditions

•

•

Possible cause of fault

♦

♦

♦

Affected terminals

-

Diagnosis/troubleshooting

Before troubleshooting, read out the fault memory of the DME control
module and eliminate any faults present.

Note!
Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Check CAN bus from DME
contol unit to PSM control
unit for open circuit

♦

♦

♦

→

♦

→

3 Replace DME control module → End

Fault code 4276

Valve relay

Diagnostic conditions

•

•

•

Possible cause of fault

♦

♦

♦

Affected terminals

Terminal 6

Diagnosis/troubleshooting

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Check supply voltage of
the valve relay

♦

♦

♦

⇒

♦

♦

→

2 Replace hydraulic unit → End

911 Turbo (996)

9025 Fault code 9110

90-10

Instrument cluster K20

9110xk20

90

Printed in Germany – 8, 2001

90-10

DME control module

Diagnostic conditions

•

Possible cause of fault

♦

♦

♦

♦

♦

♦

♦

♦

♦

Affected terminals

Plug A, terminals 15 and 31

Diagnosis/troubleshooting

Note!
Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Read out DME fault memory

♦

→

⇒

♦

♦

♦

♦

→ End

911 Turbo (996)

9025 Fault code 9111

90-11

Instrument cluster K20

9111xk20

90

Printed in Germany – 8, 2001

90-11

PSM/ABS control module *

Diagnostic conditions

•

Possible cause of fault

♦

♦

♦

♦

♦

♦

♦

♦

Affected terminals

Plug A, terminals 15 and 31

Diagnosis/troubleshooting

Note!
Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Read out PSM fault memory

♦

→

⇒

♦

♦

♦

♦

→ End

 

Pardon?

 

That's what your codes are and how to diagnose the problem taken form the Porsche POSES system. (Tech Manual)
I presume you posted your codes to be told what they mean