Yeah, it's exactly what I'm after - I just need to read it a few times to be able to understand it properly

I've never worked on computer based cars before, so I've got a lot of learning to do

ie: CAN high drive?!?

 

x2

sunnyside, that is good info. its just a lot to digest at once.

what is a CAN and what is a DME?

Sunnyside, are you really Scottish? my dad is from Glasgow originally and he would never approve of a scot spending the money on a p-car.. i havent even told him about mine yet.. it stays in the garage when he comes around. I am afraid of getting an earful!

 

Car psychology, if only the rest of the world was so simple. I'm what you might call a mongrel.

CAN BUS is http://www.bridgwater-electronics.co...CAN+Bus%3F.php

The DME Digital "Electronic Motor" unit is the cars brain, the ECU.

 

Thanks. REP power has been added!

 

Right then, looks like I'll be buying a Multimeter this weekend

I don't think I need anything else (yet) do I?

Also - Before doing any work, should I reset the codes and check them again just incase they're old codes, or do they sound like they're the correct and current ones?

 

Absolutely, you have a note of the codes , so reset them with Durametrics and take the car for a nice steady drive and read out any codes. Then take the car for a hard drive and see if it misbehaves, read out any codes.
you might have stored these codes from a long time back, so some faults might have cleared.

 

Can't take the car for a drive - it still doesn't start

Should I still reset the codes? Will durametrics get the codes just with the ignition on without the engine running?

 

Yes, clear out the codes, you already have a record of what they were. Crank the car over and see what codes come up again.

Just remind me, you have checked your fuel pump is working and your getting flow and pressure?? You can used Durametric to run the fuel pump, hence check flow and pressure with a suitable pressure gauge and a container to measure the amount of fuel delivered in one minute.

Did you take off the complete plug lead and coil pack and checked for a spark?

Anyway, see what codes you get cranking the engine over.

 

Ok, just reset the codes
I'm using Software version 5 now and not the Beta version
I've just checked the codes again, and everything is showing as fine and no errors are coming up

However - When I click on the 'ABS/PSM' tab it sometimes says 'Module Failed to initialize'

Any ideas why it sometimes does this??

Now that I'm using Version 5, I've just run the fuel pump
It made a noise from the engine bay, and the relay clicked too

I stopped and started the fuel pump a few times, then tried to start the engine

It still won't start, but this time it did splutter - Although only very slightly

So, with that in mind, I reckon I need to check the pump/flow like you said

What's the preferred method for doing this, and what tools will I need?

 

Just downloaded and read (some of the) workshop manual

As I don't have a fuel pressure tester yet, can I just measure the flow, or should I get a tester to check the pressure too?

The manual says I need a special connector to attach to the fuel line, do i need to order this through Porsche, or is an alternative available?

 

Well that is some better news.

However - When I click on the 'ABS/PSM' tab it sometimes says 'Module Failed to initialize' : That happens quite often and is to do with Durametric talking to the module, don't worry about it.

It still won't start, but this time it did splutter - Although only very slightly : So at least you are getting some kind of spark.

So, with that in mind, I reckon I need to check the pump/flow like you said : Using another person, disconnect the outlet from the filter and using durametric start the pump and see if any fuel come out. It should be a good stream of fuel and not just a few dribbles etc.

What's the preferred method for doing this, and what tools will I need?: you will need the proprietary pressure tester, see if s local friendly indi will lend you one, or have a look in some tool catalogues and buy one. i haven't got one yet, but I intend to do so. you cant keep borrowing things from a mate all the time.lol

I would cut to the chase and check your fuel pump for the expected split fuel pipe. Or perhaps the pump is on its last legs.



ps quick edit: don't forget the fuel pump is at the front of the car, so you should hear it from the front not the rear with the luggage compartment open.

 

Don't know if ya got it fixed yet but i had the exact same thing happen and it turned out that a tech (I normally don't use) at the dealer didn't tighten down one of the connectors on the battery posts...

Drove around like that for a full week before it stalled and lid up like a xmass tree

Check it out, maybe it's something ridiculous like that.

GL!

 

For sure....it may be the fuel pump....there is very small sized ball...looks like a ping pong ball but just slightly larger than a marble. It seperates from the fuel pump...and the pump quits working. I found this problem with mine....I put the ball back in the pump. It worked for a while...the seperated again. BUY A NEW PUMP...problem will be solved.

Good Luck

Pete S.

 

Just started work on removal of the fuel pump - Haven't got very far yet though

I can't seem to undo the big black plastic 'nut' that screws over the top of the fuel sender

I've tried using 'strength of the bear' and I've even cursed at it, but to no avail

Anybody got some ideas for me?

 

OK, Just got the 'nut' off

It was far too tight to just unscrew, so I placed a length of wood against one of the ridges and gave it a number of light taps with a rubber mallet - there was no way I could have removed it purely by hand

Note - If you do need to use wood and a mallet, make sure you wrap a towel around the wood where it touched the black nut so as to avoid any impact damage