996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Rev issue: Hit 0.7 bar but not rev over 5Krpm in all gears...

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  #46  
Old 09-01-2011, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by winnigt2
that could be a problem too...correct....with datalog you must see different signals..so you can change left to right....(and if the failures goes to the other side you are shure the lambda is dead)
For datalog, isnt it using the handheld scan tools, I mean workshop type can view this?
 
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by boyg
Will have a try on weekend, under load which is pressing the pedal in natural shift?
on street and watch the fpr .....3,8bar plus boost.....if boost come the fuel pump must be able to increase fuel pressure
 
  #48  
Old 09-01-2011, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by boyg
For datalog, isnt it using the handheld scan tools, I mean workshop type can view this?
if you have a scantool with lifetime data......dual lambda control life time data via obd......
 
  #49  
Old 09-03-2011, 02:33 AM
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Plugged a bar meter directly to the fuel pump, pressure seen 3.1bar, but of course the car is not starting\idle.
 
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Old 09-03-2011, 09:32 AM
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How did you connect the 'bar meter'? Did you "T" it to the line and monitor fuel pressure while running??? It is important to have fuel flowing so you can see the pressure at different levels of fuel delivery.
 
  #51  
Old 09-03-2011, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ard
How did you connect the 'bar meter'? Did you "T" it to the line and monitor fuel pressure while running??? It is important to have fuel flowing so you can see the pressure at different levels of fuel delivery.
My workshop connects the meter to the fuel pump directly under the hood, try to start car and measure the pressure.
 
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Old 09-03-2011, 10:57 AM
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You should be doing it as the workshop manual says not where you think it should be done.
There is a pressure test point near the filter, it has a valve and cap. That is where you fit your proprietary pressure gauge. It effectively is already a T piece.
You never ever pressure test directly into or form the pump without flow , it should be done off a T piece. There must always be a flow of fuel back to the tank. By measuring the fuel pressure you are actually measuring a combination of fuel pump output and the FPR.
If there is no pressure it doesn't always mean the pump is broken , you have to check your FPR as well. This is why when you do a Fuel pressure check you should always follow this up with a flow test. this measures the quantity of fuel the pump can deliver in one minute and not its pressure. If a pump is failing it can give a good pressure output but may not be able to sustain the required flow of fuel.
 
  #53  
Old 09-03-2011, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Sunnyside
You should be doing it as the workshop manual says not where you think it should be done.
There is a pressure test point near the filter, it has a valve and cap. That is where you fit your proprietary pressure gauge. It effectively is already a T piece.
You never ever pressure test directly into or form the pump without flow , it should be done off a T piece. There must always be a flow of fuel back to the tank. By measuring the fuel pressure you are actually measuring a combination of fuel pump output and the FPR.
If there is no pressure it doesn't always mean the pump is broken , you have to check your FPR as well. This is why when you do a Fuel pressure check you should always follow this up with a flow test. this measures the quantity of fuel the pump can deliver in one minute and not its pressure. If a pump is failing it can give a good pressure output but may not be able to sustain the required flow of fuel.
You are right, thanks for advising, will have another brief check in another workshop on Monday...and will request to have a check on this also. Thanks.
 
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Old 09-11-2011, 02:20 AM
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After a week check in Porsche specialist workshop, they tested a tons of things and found NO major parts need to replace, but some tubes of vacuum are leak and stuck with engine oil, I still not having the full picture of the exactly issue, but it requires to drop the engine to clean up and replace these things, cost will be around 1100 on this.

And together with the AC and water pump replacement adding another 1500.
 

Last edited by boyg; 09-11-2011 at 02:40 AM.
  #55  
Old 10-28-2011, 01:10 PM
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Finally I have the issue resolved!!!

I changed Plugs 2 times, coil, 2 DVs, all turbo hose with Forge set, check for leak, MAF and doesnt help....................And the root causes is the fuel pump and 2 O2.

The car goes like a rocket now, and I could head to head from 0-100 miles with my buddy's stage II E55!!! Currently I have headers and Fabspeed 100 Cell exhaust only :P
 
  #56  
Old 10-28-2011, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by boyg
Finally I have the issue resolved!!!

I changed Plugs 2 times, coil, 2 DVs, all turbo hose with Forge set, check for leak, MAF and doesnt help....................And the root causes is the fuel pump and 2 O2.

The car goes like a rocket now, and I could head to head from 0-100 miles with my buddy's stage II E55!!! Currently I have headers and Fabspeed 100 Cell exhaust only :P
Good news, well done and enjoy the beast
 
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