I had the dealer install

1 x Pagid RS 19 Yellow Front Brake Pads Porsche 996 TT 01-05 (PAG-2474-RS19)
1 x Pagid RS 14 Black Rear Brake Pads Porsche 996 TT & GT2 01-05 (PAG-2405-RS14)

They called and said the pads are dragging? Did they do something wrong or is a seating process on these pads?

Thanks!

 

Did they take the vibration dampeners out? I have had multiple sets of these RS19s and RS29s and have had to take the dampeners out on some when they are brand new because they are just a little too thick.

 

Just talked to them and they can remove those but then he said there will be a bunch of noise and banging around.

His concern is that the way it sits it could heat up the rotors and ruin the rotors. I am going to the track on 9/10 -11 and I am sure use up enough of the pads to where they are not dragging.

Any thoughts?

 

Had the same prob. w/ my pagids,mater of fact had to remove the silencers in the rear to even get the pads in.Been running that way for 2 yrs now & have occasional noise (squeal),but no other issues

 

Have the same problem with the R19's Discovered I don't have the problem with the R29's. I haven't taken a dial caliper to them but am still running the damper. Who woulda thunk ?

 

The yellows won't bang around at all, but they might squeel if you don't bed them properly, mine make Zero noise. I would give it a go and remove the dampers out.

 

+1 on this advice. You probably won't even notice the vibration dampers have been removed. Just have the stealer save them and then you always have the option of reinstalling. I just bedded a set of RS29s a couple weekends ago and have had zero noise on the street.

 

what do you do to bed them?

 

I thought I followed the correct pre-bedding and bedding process but my yellows squeal real bad with no dampers in. I have the blacks in rear also with no dampers. So loud that I went back to the stock pads/dampers just to get a break for the summer from the noise. Love to know how you bedded them so that they do not make noise?

 

Also I heard if you track the car and leave the dampers with pagids in the heat will pretty much ruin them and cause them to adhere to stuff when you try to change the pads.

 

Safest way to bed in the Pagids is to do a couple or three laps at the track your first session and then come in and let them cool. It really takes discipline I know, because you will not want to miss the track time, but it works.

 

Found this online:

Bedding allows your brakes to reach their full potential. Until they are bedded, your brakes simply do not work as well as they can. If you've installed a big brake kit, changed your pads and rotors, or even purchased a brand new car, you should set aside time to bed the brakes according to the instructions below. Proper bedding improves pedal feel, reduces or eliminates brake squeal, prevents (and often cures) brake judder, reduces brake dust, and extends the life of your pads and rotors. For more on the theory of bedding, please refer to this excellent article by StopTech: Removing the Mystery from Brake Pad Bed-In.
Caution: Immediately after installing new pads, rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brakes will result in very little braking power. Gently use the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed. Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph.
If you have just installed rotors with zinc or cadmium plating, or if the rotors have an anti-corrosion phosphate coating, you should postpone the bedding process until normal driving has allowed your brake pads to polish the rotors clean and removed all traces of the plating or coating. If your new brake rotors have an oily anti-corrosion coating, you should clean this off thoroughly with brake cleaning spray and/or hot soapy water.
Read and understand these bedding instructions completely before starting. If you have questions, give us a call or email. Do not substitute higher speeds for the 60mph called for in these instructions. The heat in your brakes goes up exponentially as you increase the speed from which you brake. If you make repeated stops from 80 or 90mph with street pads, you will overheat the brakes and may end up having to replace pads and/or rotors.
When following these instructions, avoid other vehicles. Bedding is often best done early in the morning, when traffic is light, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and may respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. A police officer will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! Zeckhausen Racing does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions. Use common sense!

1. From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
2. Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
3. The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
4. After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.
5. If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors, since the pads need time to conform to the old rotor wear pattern. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.

 

buddyg - what you posted above should definitely suffice. The last time I did it I did 5-7 stops from 80-50 mph with medium to hard brake pressure to get them heated up, then I did 3-5 stops from 110-60 with hard brake pressure but in between those i did 2-3 light stops to "clean" the rotors. After that I just cruised for a while to let them cool down.

On the pagids, you'll know they've been properly bedded if you look at them and can see that they have started to turn white around the edge near the rotor. Just be sure to bed them ASAP so as not to glaze the pad.

 

Just a follow up had the dealer remove the vibration dampers and picked the car up on Friday. No noise other than my squeaking Pagid pads!