prevent the oil from damaging the maf sensor. Once installed i go for a drive, boom the line to the y pipe to the dv comes off put it back in drive a bit seems to be still driving bad at that point i put the factory paper filter back in go for a run around town drive it all sorts of ways even did hi high speed high boost run....PERFECT!! Its all set The next day comes and i figure i solved the issue and might as well re install the BMC.....

It goes down hill from here. I had the upper intercooler hose blow off re installed properly tightened the throttle body to y pipe and uper intercooler hoses once again as well as make sure the airbox is secured to the inlet. Go for a run and at .08 bars of boost it sputters goes boom and shuts off the PSM ABS and brake distribution light go on, i get off the pedal (out of boost) and it is back to normal. I then brought it back and scan it with a generic code reader and got a p0045 boost controll selonoid open circuit?? it is plugged in but the line was kinked from the N75 to the y pipe, fixed that and then even got a can of CRC MAF cleaner and cleaned the maf ( ijust read i post from the previos owner that this is MAF is 3+ years old) re installed cleared all codes....No luck. I have yet to do a boost leak test, i might have to do so soon. this is driving me nuts!

What i do not understand is what could i have done while removing the air box?? I never removed the y pipe when i took the box out it was i little bit of a tight squeeze i dont know guys i am stumped Any help would be great!

For Reference this is Mikes (TTboost) old car, The car has k24/18gwater meth epl tuned speedtech y pipe and intercoolers and intercooler piping fvd exhaust with cats Thanks inadvanced --Rob

Ps sorry for the rant

 

I am not sure when the last time my plugs were changed, It is a long shot but do you think that could be an issue? It does not seem to really missfire but more sputter hesitate jerk and then shut off once the boost kicks in. The plugs are the copper ones EPL tells you to run, i know that.

 

While I don't have a Porsche I am not new to turbo cars. I would start with reinstalling the paper filter to see if that fixes the problem again. I am not that familiar with the turbo plumbing on the 996 but generally when you are popping intercooler piping connections it is from either a restriction, over boost, or loose piping connections. It does not sound like a MAF sensor issue to me because your intercooler hose popped off, this will usually throw various ecu codes in the other turbo cars I have worked on. I doubt you have a boost leak either.

I am sure someone with more experience with these cars will respond shortly.

 

The lesson here is:
Don't change your air filter.

It does nothing for you other than cause problems.

 

I agree i never should have bothered using that BMC filter, I have snce re installed the factory paper filter. I have yet to blow off another hose. However i do think i am hearing a hissing sound on the left side of the motor.

 

thats odd because Mike seemed to have his car together well...
I would call him ...
markski

 

I have been in contact with him, he is a really great guy.

I did take it for another run thIs afternoon and I swear I can hear a whistle from the left rear. I am going to have to inspect all the piping and DV'S. I have a feeling it could be the drivers side upper intercooler pipe expanding under boost and allow boost to ecscape. I might also swap the DV's from my audi S4 which are forge 007 for safety sake and inspect that f hose.

Funny thing is that I am still stumped as I did not really touch or disturb anything and only unplugged the maf sensor which was put back

 

Rob,
I am sorry you are having such issues with the car. I seem to recall it ran PERFECT for me and the night you picked it up. It's likely you blew the MAF. I NEVER had these issues as I stuck with the stock paper filter. I have spent a lot of time on the dyno with different filters as I told you. The extra 4hp is NOT worth the aggravation. Double check ALL the hoses for leaks. Rear bumper comes off in about 10 minutes to access the IC's. Check EVERYTHING. If you had a kink in the N75 line, you likely overboosted. and popped a hose. Do a search here for a cheap boost leak tester. This is mine. $10 worth of Home Cheapo parts. Get rid of ALL the boost leaks, replace the MAF, keep a paper filter in it and the car will rip.

PS. Unless they popped too, LEAVE THE DV's THAT ARE IN IT, IN IT!!!! They are brand new 710's. Anything else is crap.

PSS, I also got the bolts...thank you.

 

Did you try cleaning the MAF with electronics cleaning spray? $5 and a few minutes of work...

 

Maf, now theirs a word that cost me a lot of money.. It all started with an oiled filter. heres the sad but fruitful story.. I changed plugs, changed tunes, changed fuel filters, chined coil pacs, and a few other things.... then came 6 speed and i found a $4.00 can of elec cleaner . that was 4 years ago and all is still well oh i did change to a evo paper filter. the good part about this story is the car is a lot faster now

 

I wish you'd posted about the problem then rather than now as I gave you a $5 answer many other guys could have too.

But it's solved and the car is great now right?

 

Yes I have cleaned the MAF with crc MAF cleaner. As well as put back in the factory paper air filter No luck drives the exact same.

It's odd. At a little more than quarter throttle once it hits .08 bar of boost it jerks sputters and then shuts the car off briefly. I do not have to re start the car but everything shuts down. Then the abs psm message comes on in the digital info display. When it does this it jerks hiccups so bad you feel like it will shoot your body threw the windshield without a seatbelt.

The car drives perfect as long as you stay away from boost past .07 bar.

 

Its seems pre turbo leak... esp at lower rpms....
between maf and turbos...
check your connection form aribox to aluminum intake.. the 4" black rubber coupler connected with worm clamps... as well as the tubing at the turbos... something may be loose...
OR
disconnect the maf harness ... its easy... and run the car.. see if it persists..

 

Is there something that i could have disturbed or knocked loose while removing the air box? The first time i had removed it i did take the y out of the throttle body inorder to move it around in order to snake the box out. I have since then taken in out and re installed it carefully while making sure that everything was plugged in a tightend down i am sure the TB to Y pipe all the vacum lines N75 DV's and F-hose and the vacum line on the top beside the map sensor are secured as they should

Is there a possibility that it is behind the TB? I know that is not a question you can answer over the interweb (little humor never hurts hehe) But in your expierence have you seen or heard of something like that happening? Thanks in advanced

PS.Also when i run it unplugged which re sult will determine what?

 

well there you go.. you took out the Y pipe to say the least.. and other parts...
you didnt mention that in beginning..
if you have a leak between the airbox( with maf on it) and the turbos you will have low end stutters...
seems like you were stubborn and didnt listen to Mike...
now you have a job on your hands..
to get rid of all the boost leaks you need to do a boost pressure test.. not that easy for first timer... from the turbos.... the right way....
then once we know thats taken care of you can address the maf issue if any...
you could have it at the Y pipe to TB as well...
that also doesnt mean you still dont have a pre turbo leak... like at maf to aluminum connection... or a few inches further at the big dv to aluminum intake connection..

at this point, since you touched a bunch of things , it could be anything...
next time tell us the full story and dont what you actually did... maybe we all can waste less time on labor day weekend chasing a leak you probably caused but did not mention what you actually took out...

Get mike on the horn.. have him send you a boost leak tester... both sides... you need a big compressor... wheels off.. car up in air... plastic fender wells off... and pressure test to 20 psi... get a spray bottle with soap and water.. make sure its quiet inside the garage... one person puts air in the other listens and sprays...
Im guessing one of your hoses is not on right since your hearing a hissing noise.. etc etc...