I plan on sticking with the original black.

 

Are you painting the entire car or just frontal portion?

Anytime you are blending new and old paint, there will be some degree of mismatch. This is very undetectable with black. The degree of orange peel can be matched and corrected with a detailer.

If you want everything to match, paint the entire car. Keep in mind that Porsche paint is done by robots. So, a repaint will be different than one on a show room floor.

 

As said, so much depends on the body shop / paint specialist. Most body shops these days are geared for insurance work, and avoid custom work because it does not fit their quick-fix business model. Taking the time to find the right shop with great references will pay off. I've actually been turned away by shops in my area because they did not want to fool with a non-insurance claim situation.

Asking around and find the shop that does a lot of custom work is a great suggestion. I've been wanting to get my old Benz repainted and I'm still looking.

 

When i had my 82 painted, i took the whole thing apart, and sent it to the paint shop. It cost me $2000, to have the car painted, then i reassembled the car, and wet sanded, and buffed the whole car out. It looked like a quality paint job. Wet sanding the surface is the only way to get a smooth as glass paint finish. You should see the $10k paint jobs before they are wet sanded, and buffed out!

 

I am talking about painting the entire car. I already had the nose and hood re-done, and it looks good, but not perfect. Most people would not notice, but I do. I have a fantastic detailer that has truly done wonders with the car. He rivals anyone in my opinion. It really does look great, but at some point I want to aim for the stars.

 

Are you going for original spec? (base coat & clear coat)
Or will you be going for single stage paint?

 

^^^ I think he's going for a full showroom restoration maybe...

 

having restored 6 old corvettes yes you can !!! but it will not be cheap, i took mine off the frame and everything was done to factory specs in 1966... took the car down to bare glass (corvette) and followed some old factory specs, down to the old factory paint. it took very little time as the car was painted while off the frame ans the body was perfect (never been hit). i sold the car that owned a bod shop and he was amazed,
. he sold it at pebble beach two years later

 

You can get a factory perfect paint job for less than 10k (depending on where you are) by checking out the best shops in your area (depending on where you are). A full strip and start over job will cost at least that much but not generally necessary. Find a good "Euro" paint shop and they can paint half the car without any difference between the original and repaint. I have a shop here that did half my Jaguar after someone hit it and there was never any difference between the old and new at 7 years old.

 

Whichever is the superior end product. I don't know the answer, but I am open to advice.

 

^^^ base + clear > single stage

 

IMHO, it depends on how you define "factory quality."

Can you get a paint job, using better-than-factory quality paints/clears? Yes.
Can you get a shop that finishes meticulously (prep, wet-sanding, polishing, etc.), better than factory? Yes.
Can an aftermarket paint shop paint as uniformly as factory robots? IMHO, no.
Can an aftermarket paint shop apply clearcoat as thinly as factory? IMHO, no.

Honestly, if you're going to go for the exact same color as the vehicle left the factory, I would first try the best detailer you can find/afford (many are experts at light touch-ups, wetsanding, etc - in addition to more traditional detailing steps) and see if that satisfies your desire for a finer finish than what you presently have.

You could have the car professionally touched-up, detailed, and whole-car wrapped with the highest quality paint-protection-film, for significantly less than a top-notch repaint... and you might be surprised by how well it turns out. Just my $0.02.

 

Depends on interpretation I reckon

There are definitely reasons for bc/cc being better than single stage, but it's also worth remembering......

Single stage will give a sharper/deeper colour than bc/cc
It can be touched up (spot repaired) successfully if it gets chipped
It can be buffed to remove any swirl marks and minor damage
It can be flatted and resprayed easily time and time again


bc/cc cannot be 'repaired' if it got chipped, it would require a full respray of a panel if you were to do the job correctly

But, bc/cc is the only option for a good finish on metallics


Bottom line........

If I were doing a solid colour it would be single stage
If I were doing a metallic it would be bc/cc

 

I agree with all those points, very nicely played sir. This is an example of an excellent reply, both detailed and informative.

 

Thanks

I'm usually full of daft comments and stupid questions
Thought i'd say something useful for once

+rep for you