To sway or not to sway :)
#1
To sway or not to sway :)
I get contradicting information from vendors
Some say what Gt2 sway bars is as good as any other(including their own) and some say what their bars are step forward.
Should I get a different sways over my Gt2 adjastable.
If yes - which one?
Also everybody I spoke with suggested sway drop links but they do not make them.
Now - I never used drop links before - I understand what they will let me set sway bars in the 0 preload state - what is real advanatges?
Who makes good one?
Some say what Gt2 sway bars is as good as any other(including their own) and some say what their bars are step forward.
Should I get a different sways over my Gt2 adjastable.
If yes - which one?
Also everybody I spoke with suggested sway drop links but they do not make them.
Now - I never used drop links before - I understand what they will let me set sway bars in the 0 preload state - what is real advanatges?
Who makes good one?
#2
I wish I didn't waste time on sway bars and spacers. I have H&R bars and 7mm fronts/15mm rears. The sway bars and spacers made almost no difference in handling and I know how to drive the car. The spacers just make the wheels look more flush. IMHO, I wouldn't do it again and I would have put the money towards other mods... Good luck.
#3
You just got the car right? What's wrong with the handling? Drive it first and see if you like what you have before buying a bunch of stuff that may or may not make you happy.
I completely disagree with the above post depending on how you drive your car. If you drive street only, you will only notice the difference if you are driving hard on tight slower roads. On the track they make a world of difference.
That being said, I had just an H&R rear sway and now have GT3 front and rear. The balance of the GT3 bars is pretty excellent though could maybe use a stronger rear bar on tighter tracks.
I completely disagree with the above post depending on how you drive your car. If you drive street only, you will only notice the difference if you are driving hard on tight slower roads. On the track they make a world of difference.
That being said, I had just an H&R rear sway and now have GT3 front and rear. The balance of the GT3 bars is pretty excellent though could maybe use a stronger rear bar on tighter tracks.
#4
By the time I will get car I might have a week or less to drive it.
Need to have a project for myself on thouse long winter nights
Now - quick question - do you have 911 TT or Gt2
Info I'm getting is what aftermarket sways are not better than Gt2 but they are better than 911 TT
Thanks for an info
#5
I have the GT3 bar up front with PSS9's
It's kind of noisy when turning the wheel, did you upgrade you shock tower mounts ? I've been told that this will fix my issues.
You just got the car right? What's wrong with the handling? Drive it first and see if you like what you have before buying a bunch of stuff that may or may not make you happy.
I completely disagree with the above post depending on how you drive your car. If you drive street only, you will only notice the difference if you are driving hard on tight slower roads. On the track they make a world of difference.
That being said, I had just an H&R rear sway and now have GT3 front and rear. The balance of the GT3 bars is pretty excellent though could maybe use a stronger rear bar on tighter tracks.
I completely disagree with the above post depending on how you drive your car. If you drive street only, you will only notice the difference if you are driving hard on tight slower roads. On the track they make a world of difference.
That being said, I had just an H&R rear sway and now have GT3 front and rear. The balance of the GT3 bars is pretty excellent though could maybe use a stronger rear bar on tighter tracks.
#7
As an upgrade for the rear sway on the 996TT, I wouldn't go with the GT3 type. The GT3 being rear wheel drive does not have the requirement for as stiff of a rear bar as the 996TT. So using the GT3 rear bar will only net you adjustability with a slightly weaker bar. I would look into the Eiback rear sway bar personally.
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#8
The GT3 bar won't fit the Turbo...
You should be upgrading your rear bar only and not the front, and you want to use aftermarket endlinks with that too. If you're changing your front and rear bars, then you're not helping the problem. Even setting the front bar as soft as it'll go and the rear as hard as it'll go isn't desirable. Buy an aftermarket rear and set that as hard as possible, put on the aftermarket endlinks, and leave your stock front bar on there.
You should be upgrading your rear bar only and not the front, and you want to use aftermarket endlinks with that too. If you're changing your front and rear bars, then you're not helping the problem. Even setting the front bar as soft as it'll go and the rear as hard as it'll go isn't desirable. Buy an aftermarket rear and set that as hard as possible, put on the aftermarket endlinks, and leave your stock front bar on there.
#9
It's annoying to read these thread. GT3 bars don't fit well on our cars, doesn't line up nicely. And it's weak for a TT since a GT3 is much lighter.
I said before and say again, get proper adjustable Eibach Racing swaybars, stick with original drop links. There is no such thing as "preload to zero" unless one of your droplinks are tweaked or shorterend so that they don't have the same length anymore. They are not different length when the car leaves the plant. If you have a lowering kit most normal lowering levels retain the stock droplink. They break only if you bend it around the coilover (such as Bilstein PSS9 which has a droplink design that sucks mondo). Most useful coilovers have a better design and the droplink sits straight. If you don't slam the car on the ground, the OEM drop link will be fine.
The Eibach Racing swaybar set costs sub $300 from Amazon. They bolt right on, they fit nicely with the crossbeams of the car and they add adjustability front and rear. In middle position front and rear the car becomes very close to neutral (given you run OEM tire and spring setup - on more aggressive spring setups the middle setting may cause a little much oversteer). Neutral car increases the overall cornering grip level since you won't be "pushing" away 5% of grip. If you like more oversteer go ahead and adjust. If you like more understeer, adjust the other way. It's easy. If you change springs or shocks, use the adjustable swaybars to adjust the balance to fit your style.
The only downside: They are a touch heavier than the stock bars.
Period.
I said before and say again, get proper adjustable Eibach Racing swaybars, stick with original drop links. There is no such thing as "preload to zero" unless one of your droplinks are tweaked or shorterend so that they don't have the same length anymore. They are not different length when the car leaves the plant. If you have a lowering kit most normal lowering levels retain the stock droplink. They break only if you bend it around the coilover (such as Bilstein PSS9 which has a droplink design that sucks mondo). Most useful coilovers have a better design and the droplink sits straight. If you don't slam the car on the ground, the OEM drop link will be fine.
The Eibach Racing swaybar set costs sub $300 from Amazon. They bolt right on, they fit nicely with the crossbeams of the car and they add adjustability front and rear. In middle position front and rear the car becomes very close to neutral (given you run OEM tire and spring setup - on more aggressive spring setups the middle setting may cause a little much oversteer). Neutral car increases the overall cornering grip level since you won't be "pushing" away 5% of grip. If you like more oversteer go ahead and adjust. If you like more understeer, adjust the other way. It's easy. If you change springs or shocks, use the adjustable swaybars to adjust the balance to fit your style.
The only downside: They are a touch heavier than the stock bars.
Period.
#11
There is nothing wrong with the fit of the GT3 bars, even on a TT if you are using adjustable drop links, and if you aren't and really intend to use the sway bars, then you have a lot to learn. I took an H&R bar off and slapped a GT3 bar on in little to no time. And even though the bar is thin and light, it provides plenty of stiffness. In fact, heaviness and girth do not determine stiffness, that has been established and since we have no published numbers for really any of the sway bars, no one knows what is stiffer and what isn't (unless you get an RSR bar, which we know is stiffer than the GT3 stuff).
LCat- I have a Turbo, but it's RWD and lighter than your car with more hp (if your car is stock). I still stand by what I said, if you buy sways now, then you'll have to wait all winter to see what they are worth, which may not be anything over the factory bars. Things you will certainly get your moneys worth from are an LSD (rebuilding yours is fine), Adjustable coilovers, and maybe a tune to quicken up the response on your turbo lag (I think your car had stock power if I remember correctly). And if you don't want to spend the big bucks, get you a set of monoballs to get rid of some of the rubber in the control arms.
LCat- I have a Turbo, but it's RWD and lighter than your car with more hp (if your car is stock). I still stand by what I said, if you buy sways now, then you'll have to wait all winter to see what they are worth, which may not be anything over the factory bars. Things you will certainly get your moneys worth from are an LSD (rebuilding yours is fine), Adjustable coilovers, and maybe a tune to quicken up the response on your turbo lag (I think your car had stock power if I remember correctly). And if you don't want to spend the big bucks, get you a set of monoballs to get rid of some of the rubber in the control arms.
#12
Yes, my JIC come with upper mounts that get rid of the factory stuff which is rubber and has a lot of slop to it. I highly recommend you get rid of that. HOWEVER, make sure you check your drop links, they are just as likely to fail and cause a lot of racket when you turn the wheel. You will have to take them off to check them, but they may need to be upgraded as well.
Last edited by heavychevy; 10-24-2011 at 02:54 AM.
#13
Bilstein PPS10 provides longer sway bar links for the front as the link is attached to a different part of the shock assembly than stock. They are similar to stock in design. They do not provide rear sway bar links. Depending on amount of your drop the links will be too short causing binding of the bar. The factory drop link are notoriously thin and do snap under heavy track use. They seem to be no problem on the street.
#14
Eibach adjustable here. Of course sways make a difference! Firstly, car is more neutral. I have them set full soft for the street. Secondly, by adjusting them you drastically change car's handling. If you change rear to hard – get ready for seriously quick steering and increase in oversteering. You just touch the steering wheel and you think the car will turn 90 degrees in a square line!