disconnect n75valve electrical,,,,,then check your baseboost...if you have 1 bar wastegates you must have around 0,8 bar, with stock you must have around 0,4 bar....

with disconnected 75valve you should never have a overboost situation.... if yes you have found a failure at this side.....

 

Hey Mike are you backfiring at all??

 

The car has been at the shop for the past 2-3 weeks. Entire engine came out last week, every single line in the boost system was checked 2x over, new seperate lines connected for testing, we tried a new air mass meter, MAP sensor, N75 swap, and absolutely nothing found that shed any light on why the car is overboosting to 1.4 bar.

We are going to try again to get the stock flash back on. When I did it the other month, the car would not boost past .2 bar and threw a CEL. Flashing the tune file back was right back to driving fine but 1.4 bar. I sent the shop the original file and told them to try and see what happens. I'm waiting to hear back, but I'm not hopeful. The only thing that has temporarily fixed the 1.4 boost with the tune file was a battery disconnect and hard reset, but the overboost came back 150 miles later and has not gone away since. I've not tried another battery disconnect, but might as well at some point again to see if it temporarily boosts to 1.1 bar again properly.

Is there a serious risk that this continued testing to 1.3-1.4 bar spikes is going to cause engine damage or already has? At this point, I'm worried about the car in general and am ready to just get it working and try to sell it and be done with turbo cars and Porsche in general . 6 months of not being able to drive it is just too much for me to take. I'd rather have had the bill be 3x the price so far and just get it quicky fixed. It sucks owning a car I can't drive and is constantly in the shop.

mikerosi, the shop said the car did backfire on them, but I've not really noticed it. Why?

 

Hey Mike, yeah my car was doing the same thing and I was backfiring but it ended up being the MAF sensor but I see you had that replaced, Are you sure it was replaced?? If every thing has been tested as you say it must be electrical or ECU related. You must get your car to someone who has the factory Porsche testing equipment or you are just spinning your wheels. Does this shop have this equipment?? If not go to someone else. Good luck and keep us informed, Mike

 

Sorry to hear all that..For whats it worth....With my previous EPL tune before I went to Protomotive I was getting 1.4 bars with peaks of 1.5,on the dash gauge.That was their 93 oct. tune. Tony didnt seem to be worried about it but I was just like you>worried....

 

Stupid question, but did you verify that that the boost gauge, or rather the boost pressure sensor is functioning properly and not reporting faulty boost pressure info? Just a thought. Also, I would take the car to an authorized Porsche dealer and have them troubleshoot it with their specialized equipment like PIWIS or PST2. Many Indy shops do not have this due to the high costs. Also, have THEM flash it back to stock and start with a clean slate. Good luck....

 

Man, you should have just gotten this to Switzer....The shops you are taking it to clearly have no idea how to work on these cars.

Engine out for this problem? Please! You are getting ripped off. Take it to some one qualified, or these problems will never be solved.

Tom

 

This. Pick a Switzer package and they will get it right!

 

I didnt read the whole thread.. is this on OEM k16s? if so check the wgs manually if they work with a hand pump and a gauge... or swap wgs ... thats an easy one...
run durametric to see what boost its doing...
open the ecu make sure it doesnt have any resistors... was it tuned by someone before?

 

BTW, I should also note that Marek, as usual has offered free help....I would recommend one of his kits, but you don't have a competent mechanic, it seems. Thus the recommendation of Switzer.

 

Thanks for the comments guys.

The car has been to Porsche (Mag) several times and a local indy a couple times, most recently will the full engine out/diagnostic part swap, seperate lines set up testing, all with no luck. Neither can get this solved and my only attempt at loading the stock file caused the car to boost at .2 bar and throw a CEL. I was just told that the indy is a GIAC tuner and thus is not allowed to even flash my stock file back on, which is pretty perplexing to me, but it's probably for the best as the car just needs to get to Switer's shop (3 hours north). I'm going to have to find someone to take a couple day trips to follow me up north so I can drop the car off with Switzer for a few days and give them the time they need to fix this. What a PITA but I do have faith in Switzer once I can find a way to get the car up to them.

The car has had Switzer's tune for 2 prior years, never overboosted until it split a diverter tube, repaired that, and then overboost started 6 months prior. All the facts are in this thread, but it's too complicated at this point and futher diagnosis is beyond me. The ONLY thing that temporarily fixed the overboost was a hard battery reset, but the problem came back 150 miles later. I told the shop to do another hard reset, I'll pick the car up Wednesday and see if it temporarily boosts properly for awhile again. Switzer road trip likely to shortly follow.

I am positive the MAF was replaced/tested, no difference, original put back in. Same with Diverter Valves.

Marski, thanks for your comments, but they are beyond me to test. If I hadn't already paid for a Switzer tune previously, I would have gone with your software.

 

Yes, I know I shold have went to Switzer originally, but that requires either $1k+ in shipping/trailer the car or finding someone follow me in their car on two seperate days of 6 hours on the road (about 3 hours each way). Obviously I spent way more $ than that locally at this point with failed attempts, so live and learn, but still I had no idea how difficult this issue was going to be to fix originally. I am still baffled Porsche and an Indy could not fix this and it's gone so far.

 

I picked the car up today after it had another hard battery reset this morning as a lets see what happens (which I'm sure they did b/c the radio wanted the code again). However, it did nothing to temporarily fix the overboost this time like it did last time. 1st/2nd gear launchs hit 1.2 bars, and 3/4/5 gear WOT pulls hit 1.3 consistenly and hold there a bit.

So the only difference is my wallet is again measurable thinner.

I have a friend who lives in Cleveland, going to try to arrange a Friday to drop off the car and catch a ride home with him when he comes home to visit his family and leave the car with Switzer to hopefully figure out.

Fortunately, the car was nice and clean and pretty when I picked it up and made me realize how much I still like it. For now, I'll hold off on the for sale sign and hope Switzer can figure this out in some reasonable manner.

 

[QUOTE=MikeR397;3506151]I picked the car up today after it had another hard battery reset this morning (which I'm sure they did b/c the radio wanted the code again). However, it did nothing to temporarily fix the overboost this time like it did last time. 1st/2nd gear launchs hit 1.2 bars, and 3/4/5 gear WOT pulls hit 1.3 consistenly and hold there a bit. ............................
Unless I am missing something,that sounds right on with the boost in those gears???

 

[quote=johnspeed;3506163]Everything I've been told is that boost above 1.2 bar on 93 octane (all I have is a basic tune and catless europipe stage 2 loud; stock k16 turbos) is dangerous for the engine. I've had the car for 18 months always pull at 1.1 bar, regardless of gear, but ever since the split tube repaired, it's 1.2 in 1st/2nd gear and 1.3-1.4 spikes in 3rd/4th/5th gear pulls. In very cold temps, it was more consistently hitting 1.4 before tapering down to 1.2-1.1 and rarely even 1.5 bar spikes. This is too much boost for the engine, and Switzer says it should not be boosting above the briefest flashes of 1.2 bar, regardless of temperature or gear.