Etchhead's signature says it's an '01. He wasn't 100% clear in his post about this, but I think it was one of the water pump fittings.

 

911TT 2001 (EPL tune/DV), Switzer exhaust, 997 shifter, V1, PSS9, Droplinks, H&R spacers, MPS Cups, CoolCarbon brakes

Hopefully, he'll chime-in...it got a bit more complicated than originally anticipated. However, I believe everything has been resolved. I know he driving his car again.

 

For Turbos this seems to be more commonplace in 2001 models and for GT3's the 2004's seem to have it the worst with other years contributing somewhat.

That's from what I have gathered. I think all cars are at risk, but these especially so.

 

Brainstorm, if I gonna change either 1 or 2 before going track, which are easy to access, like the one connecting to the water pump, would it be more risky that putting more pressure to the old hoses as only 1 or 2 new hoses replace.

 

If this happens on spirited drives on street we are toast! Disaster. And you say you changed hoses at 30k? Who does that on a street car? No one! What is service interval for hoses? Can you swap them all with engine in?

 

Nice recovery.

 

All 3 coolant hoses (under $100 for all three) are very simple to replace but be careful not to mix up the metal retaining clips as they are slightly different in diameter but look almost identical. They will clip on but will not secure the hose properly if mixed up and the hose will blow out as pressyre builds up. Ask me how I know....The PET shows the incorrect part number on some of the retainer clips but there is no need to change those.

 

Dez, those are the oldest cars of their respective model years. I'd guess that the later models are just waiting their turn.

Note that all 3 of the hoses that I replaced had superseded part numbers. The one that broke on my car is superseded by a 997 part. Here are the numbers:
997.106.502.00 Driver's side
996.106.501.76 Passenger side
996.106.250.74 Water pump supply hose

Jon

 

How often do you guys change them? Service manual doesn't really address it. What would be a good interval? Also are there better items available?

 

I'm going to have mine welded and fixed permanently this winter. There are some reasonable solutions out there.

 

After seeing this happen first hand, has anyone had this happen on a MY 07+ TT?

RE: Heavychevy, I've been told the engine has to be dropped to do this job correctly.

 

I haven't heard any cases of the 997 TT. I inquired about it about a year ago and was told that the TT's had stronger adhesive on it on the later year models.

Yeah, the engine has to be dropped to do a permanent fix. It's costly, and BS that Porsche isn't stepping up to take care of an obvious hazzard. But safety is more important.

 

I changed mine at the 30k service while the bumper was off and I was doing plugs.

 

The engine has to be dropped if the fitting comes out or you get them welded. If it hasn't come out and you use the drill and screw method you do not need to drop the engine. The drill and screw metod will work great as long as the fitting are intact still. The glue will then only be used to seal the fittings verses hold them in.

 

^^^ If drilling and tapping, how do you keep the metal bits from entering the system?