strut bearings ( as noted above ) going/gone bad will make that noise ( popping/creaking ) on hard lock turning... as will lowering springs when they bind?

but cross post in the 997 turbo section. you may get more accurate replies.

 

Thanks, I'll do.

 

Sorry to bring this back from the dead but... I've had a pretty bad "clunk" start in the front driver's side of my car. I have been assuming it was the upper mount and confirmed it tonight. The shaft and nut coming up in the middle of the mount are in a completely different place than on the passenger side and when I put a wrench on it the thing moves ALL over the place - not good! Perhaps my days of hanging offramps at triple the rated speed are down for a bit?

Trying to figure out what exactly to have replaced. In the diagram above is it simply number 11? That seems way to easy!

I was thinking I needed #14 in this diagram? What else might I need? I would like to have the parts on hand when I take the car in for alignment so I"m not paying the shop's pricing for parts

Edit: H&R Street Coilovers on my car and what appear to be stock top mounts.

 

Pondering this, how much harshness and NVH would I pickup with the Elephant monoballs designed for the stock plates? I wouldn't mind a little more road feel but this is almost 100% a street car if I ignore the Numeric shifter cables ;-)

 

Thinking about this more, likely going to stick to stock pieces. These lasted 50K miles before breaking down and ending up with a loud vibrating car\wheel would just suck! So, I still need some help on what parts to swap out, what parts break? There's an expensive piece, #12, that looks to have bonded rubber? If so yuck that's got to go - Amazon is nearly the cheapest for it BTW lol

Edit: Bah never mind, Google had Amazon competitive but going straight to their site it's over $300 apiece - F that noise!





https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/99634301504/

 

You actually need number 12 and I would go ahead an replace number 11 as well (if you're going back stock).

I installed the Elephant racing monoballs and would do it again. No issues with NVH and my car is 100% a daily driver. You only need number 11 if your using the Elephant racing monoballs.

Later, Steve

 

Man, this is tough! The Elephant pieces are actually cheaper than doing the stock rubber pieces. How are they retained? Were they hard to install? I keep waffling back and forth on this. I don't "need" them for the I do but I do tend to hang off ramps at high speed and corner hard. This isn't something I couldn't reverse either. I'm about to swap out the rear LCA\toe links and eliminate some rubber there too but not up front.... Really no harshness or NVH?

It's like there's a devil on one shoulder that says do it! An angel sits on the other telling me I don't need it lol. I do have camber plates on my Subaru RSTi and don't notice them much but I'm trying hard not to compromise this car much further - semisolid engine mounts are still on the list lol. Argh! Need to do this soon though, can't knee driving it this way

 

Just do it. The stock part is definitely not up to handling the load. Who know how long the rubber has been flexing and compromising your alignment.

Here's my how to on page three of this thread.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...dations-3.html

Later, Steve

 

Ha, I'd been looking all over trying to find a documented install! Thanks! I may try and find a second set of worn plates to convert to speed the swap as I'm daily driving the car right now. I need to contact\find a local shop about doing an alignment and some suspension pieces in back, I'll try to gauge their willingness to do these too and save me trouble.

 

Anyone got a set of used up top mounts? Prepping before swap would be easier but everything out there is new and NOT cheap lol.

 

Another thing to consider when it comes to creaking in the front suspension. If you lower your car significantly, you will want to loosen then inner control arm nuts and retension the suspension accounting for the lowered ride height. What happens is the rubber for the inner control arm bushing is locked in position based on stock ride height. When you lower the car basically the control arms are in a constant state of twist and can pull away from the metal causing a creaking noise. So you have to tighten with suspension loaded. Most alignment shops do this in the rears anyways because of the alignment rack setup. The front control arms are usually the worse because the front inner control arm bolt is not touched during alignment and is usually left tensioned to stock suspension ride height loading and is not corrected until the arms are replaced for early failure.

 

I did this job with out removing ball joints. Just disconnected the drive shaft to wheel hub.

 

Hello, I'm new to the community and still learning the ropes. From what I've read I believe I have the same if not similar problem with my passenger strut. It seems to make a clicking sound as I try to turn while stopped or slow speeds. I've got a 06 Carrara 4 38,900 miles on it. I attached a few photos. My question is, which part is needed to correct the problem and if it's a dyi

type of fix. I'm fairly mechanically inclined and have the tools.

 

I will take a WAG based upon what I'm seeing with my car - top strut mount #13. I was hearing a clunk from mine, remove the cap, and find I can move it a good bit with a wrench. The pic appears to show your's having failed too only from the bottom. Considering cost to replace I'm going with Elephant monoballs but don't yet have them installed as my car has been down. Should be done by mid November so I'll be able to provide feedback.

 

blkmgk, look forward to your feedback on that! I' thinking about the same move.