996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Exhaust - Nuts Totally Corroded!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Rate Thread
 
  #1  
Old 11-07-2011, 03:49 PM
ant_8u's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Warwickshire, England
Age: 41
Posts: 1,751
Rep Power: 140
ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !
Exhaust - Nuts Totally Corroded!

My exhaust headers are leaking, I've had a poke around and the nuts which tighten the headers to the turbine housings have completely disappeared - Bloody English weather!

I've given the studs a going over with a wire brush, but the threads have still got rust and metal in them

I've soaked them in WD40, so we'll see if that helps
If not, I'll have to remove the headers and put a die on them

The only problem with that is the bolts holding the headers to the cylinder heads have also corroded to the point where the heads are almost non-existant

Even the nuts holding the cats to the turbos have corroded!!


SO - Has anybody got any suggestions about how I should remove this mess??


Ideally I'd like to remove all the nuts associated with the exhaust and turbo fitment and replace them with new items
 
  #2  
Old 11-07-2011, 07:59 PM
pumptech's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: houston
Age: 47
Posts: 1,030
Rep Power: 80
pumptech has a reputation beyond reputepumptech has a reputation beyond reputepumptech has a reputation beyond reputepumptech has a reputation beyond reputepumptech has a reputation beyond reputepumptech has a reputation beyond reputepumptech has a reputation beyond reputepumptech has a reputation beyond reputepumptech has a reputation beyond reputepumptech has a reputation beyond reputepumptech has a reputation beyond repute
Just about every time I'm under mine I give the turbo and exhaust bolts a shot of wd40 just cuz I know all that crap comin off soon and don't want any problems
 
  #3  
Old 11-07-2011, 08:36 PM
ZIP22's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 556
Rep Power: 61
ZIP22 has a reputation beyond reputeZIP22 has a reputation beyond reputeZIP22 has a reputation beyond reputeZIP22 has a reputation beyond reputeZIP22 has a reputation beyond reputeZIP22 has a reputation beyond reputeZIP22 has a reputation beyond reputeZIP22 has a reputation beyond reputeZIP22 has a reputation beyond reputeZIP22 has a reputation beyond reputeZIP22 has a reputation beyond repute
easy solution that works for me....




+
 
  #4  
Old 11-08-2011, 05:01 PM
k-ore's Avatar
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Old line state.
Age: 47
Posts: 1,958
Rep Power: 148
k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !
^My sentiments exactly.
 
  #5  
Old 11-08-2011, 05:32 PM
ant_8u's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Warwickshire, England
Age: 41
Posts: 1,751
Rep Power: 140
ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !
Can't use the drill - the nuts have pretty much completely disappeared, there's very nearly nothing there

If I WD40 them will that remove the last little bits of rust and metal out of the threads?
 
  #6  
Old 11-08-2011, 07:13 PM
k-ore's Avatar
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Old line state.
Age: 47
Posts: 1,958
Rep Power: 148
k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !k-ore Is a GOD !
Soak them in PB Blaster over night.

Break out the torch and vise-grips and go at em. I went through the same headache when I swapped my exhaust. Once I got them off, I cleaned the threads thoroughly w/a steel brush and replaced the nuts w/new ones.
 
  #7  
Old 11-08-2011, 10:09 PM
Mpsuk's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Wolverhampton, england
Posts: 595
Rep Power: 38
Mpsuk is infamous around these parts
I had same prob with mine, halfords sell a tool that screws down onto the remainder of the nut to remove it but beware, its tight and awkward and takes forever
 
  #8  
Old 11-09-2011, 11:16 AM
Slik560's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Overland Park, KS, USA
Age: 73
Posts: 1,311
Rep Power: 104
Slik560 has a reputation beyond reputeSlik560 has a reputation beyond reputeSlik560 has a reputation beyond reputeSlik560 has a reputation beyond reputeSlik560 has a reputation beyond reputeSlik560 has a reputation beyond reputeSlik560 has a reputation beyond reputeSlik560 has a reputation beyond reputeSlik560 has a reputation beyond reputeSlik560 has a reputation beyond reputeSlik560 has a reputation beyond repute
PB Blaster is good stuff, but I've had the best luck with Aero Kroil. It loosens parts that are impossible to free with WD40. Miracle stuff.
 
  #9  
Old 11-12-2011, 07:50 AM
And996tt's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: England
Posts: 62
Rep Power: 17
And996tt has a spectacular aura aboutAnd996tt has a spectacular aura about
I've recently replaced all my nuts and bolts,but I took the turbos off completely.

The method I used to get the nuts off was to grind one side flat and then crack them with a chisel, they came off amazingly easy using this method and it also didn't leave any metal behind in the threads, hopefully if the pic works you should see what I mean. A couple of mine were almost non existant too but they still came off using this method. If yours are too far gone you might, like you say, have to take the manifolds off. Running a die nut up the studs is the method to use to get the remains of the nut out of the thread.

As the nuts were so corroded I expected the studs to be in a mess as well but surprisingly they were perfect no corrosion what so ever.

Also instead of paying £3.90 for each nut from Porsche I got them from Audi for 30p , they are proper exhaust nuts from a turbo Audi so should be fine!

I've attached some other pics I took
 
Attached Images      
  #10  
Old 11-12-2011, 06:32 PM
ant_8u's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Warwickshire, England
Age: 41
Posts: 1,751
Rep Power: 140
ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !
Good info - Thanks

Unfortunately, the nuts on mine are all but gone already
They've completely disappeared, with the exception of some rust and metal filling in the stud's threads

I'm going to have a better look at it tomorrow, but I'm thinking it's going to be a manifold off job

The only problem with that is that my manifold bolts have corroded down to nothing too, so there's nothing to get a hold of

Maybe I'll have to drill into them and then attack them with a screw/bolt extractor

Hmmmmm
 
  #11  
Old 11-12-2011, 08:38 PM
RennFab's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: New York, USA
Posts: 260
Rep Power: 27
RennFab is a glorious beacon of lightRennFab is a glorious beacon of lightRennFab is a glorious beacon of lightRennFab is a glorious beacon of lightRennFab is a glorious beacon of light
Get a stripped nut remover and save yourself hours of hassle. If you cannot remove them with one of those tools, you have bigger problems Drive it on over the nut with a few light hammer taps and crank away. Harder you turn, the harder the taper flutes bite into the nut. Can use them on any type of fasteners aside from button head allens/torx. You do have to replace the fastener in the end, but you should be doing that regardless.

Irwin, Hanson, Mac, Snapon, etc all make their own variants of the tool, but they all accomplish the same task. I have both SAE/Metric versions by Irwin and Snapon and cannot tell you how many dozens of hours of cursing they have saved me from

 
  #12  
Old 11-12-2011, 10:49 PM
ant_8u's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Warwickshire, England
Age: 41
Posts: 1,751
Rep Power: 140
ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !
Thanks!
I've never seen those before

I was initially thinking of this......
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...ew-extractor-s


But, it looks like something like this might be better....
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...C=RV-040214051
 
  #13  
Old 11-12-2011, 11:47 PM
RennFab's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: New York, USA
Posts: 260
Rep Power: 27
RennFab is a glorious beacon of lightRennFab is a glorious beacon of lightRennFab is a glorious beacon of lightRennFab is a glorious beacon of lightRennFab is a glorious beacon of light
Originally Posted by ant_8u
Thanks!
I've never seen those before

I was initially thinking of this......
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...ew-extractor-s


But, it looks like something like this might be better....
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...C=RV-040214051
The ones listed in the second link are the right idea, but are smaller and meant for fasteners like wood screws and small sheet metal screws. You can see from the pictures that they're designed to go in the chuck of an electric drill or nut driver. I'd be afraid that they would snap off at the shank.

the ones meant for fasteners like the turbo nuts terminate with a large hex end that meant to fin in a box wrench, and also have a square detent meant to attach to a 3/8" style socket ratchet(or 1/2" if they're the larger size)

I see you're in the UK so I'm not sure exactly where to link you to so you could buy the correct tool, but for visual reference you can click the link below to see what you're really need.

http://www.workshopsupplies.co.uk/contents/media/irbgxl%20(1).jpg



Edit....actually looks like that site is from the UK! this page fourth item down the list

http://www.workshopsupplies.co.uk/co...xtractors.html
 
  #14  
Old 11-13-2011, 09:59 AM
ant_8u's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Warwickshire, England
Age: 41
Posts: 1,751
Rep Power: 140
ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !
Thank you so much!!!!
 
  #15  
Old 11-13-2011, 10:28 AM
ant_8u's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Warwickshire, England
Age: 41
Posts: 1,751
Rep Power: 140
ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !ant_8u Is a GOD !
I've been looking on the internet at the various makes of nut and bolt remover

The Irwin ones listed above seem to have nothing but good reviews

I'll see if I can pick up a set tomorrow and I'll let you know how I get on with them
 


You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 0 votes,  average.

Quick Reply: Exhaust - Nuts Totally Corroded!



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:45 AM.