Your copy looks better than my own piece and I make custom tools for a living as well I'm not allowed to advertise my business here yet and don't want to get banned so I'll keep it at that until I get my vendor status established.

You don't need to completely drain the pentosin, nor need to remove the entire slave assembly at this time. When you spin the clutch brass coupler loose and disconnect the rubber flex line from the green colored aluminum hard line, you can quickly plug the main hard line to keep as much fluid up in the master/reservoir. This makes bleeding the clutch a simple job in the end. To plug the hard line at the coupler, I use a ~1/8" diameter rubber plug and jamb it into the small nipple in the center of the brass fitting. You don't have to plug or cap the slaves flex line, just let it drip into a pan for a minute and it will stop. If you want to cap it, you'll need a rubber cap(vacuum cap fittings work well here) that's about 3/16" ID.

You can remove the ac compressor from the car but(and this is just a personal thing) it's more of a PITA and creates more things to worry about lining up when the motor goes back in. It's a tight fit. Nothing wrong with doing it that way, so if that's how you want to tackle that area fell free to give it a shot. Can't hurt.

FYI....if you're going to be getting in/out of the car while the clutch is disconnected......get in the habit of locking the clutch pedal with a few pieces of wood or something. Ask me why I tell you this now, lol.

 

I am converting to the gt2 slave so the less penstosin the better. After looking at it I will the the slave in place during the drop.

This is my first time doing this and I will definitely take Rennfabs recommendation and just pull the A/C lines and leave the compressor in place. I always wanted to learn how to recharge the A/C system anyway.
As far as the viton o rings should I get those from NAPA or the dealer?

Getting a head of myself a little here but am I going to need one of those vacuum coolant tools to get the coolant back in?

 

Great information fellows. I will start getting my mind around this.

I was wondering where the engine/transmission mounts are and if I can lower the engine and transmission as a one piece unit???

 

Success !!
The engine drop was a lot easyer than I thought. Everything went very smoothly. To be honest I really enjoyed the process. Nothing like working on your own hot rod.
A big THANKS to Rennfab. His advise really helped the drop go with out a hitch.

I jotted down the order of things that were disassembled. I am not saying this is the best or only way. Just the way it worked for me.

Put car up on jack stands. Starting car height is 22” from bottom of engine to floor.
Car height is 32.5 inches from bottom of bumper support to the floor.
Open doors and run window down .250. Leave doors open until battery is disconnected.
Disconnect battery
Remove boost hoses from Y pipe
Remove MAF wires from left side of air filter housing
Unplug MAF
Air filter housing
Tail lights
Rear bumper
Rear inter fender wells
Exhaust
Exhaust heat shroud
Cat bypass pipes with 02 sensors intact
Turbo heat shroud
Turbo intake boost hose both sides
Intercoolers
Belly pans
Diagonal braces
Rear sway bar
Suspension angle switch and arm
Front driveshaft shroud
Front driveshaft
Reverse light switch on trans
Shifter cables
Drive shaft couplings
Main cross member
Starter cables
Engine ground cable
Clamp heater and main coolant hoses
Drain Coolant
Lower water pump hose, clamped
Left main coolant hose, plugged
Right main coolant hose, plugged
Upper coolant reservoir bleed hose, clamp
Clutch slave line under car
Power steering pump lines
Y pipe
A/C lines
Two millspec connectors
Square connector by millspecs
EVAP hoses above inlet pipe
Disconnect all bolts and hoses from inlet pipe and tie off
Fuel lines
Heater hose bracket on trans above left half shaft
Lower starter bolt
Trans bolts
Lower and remove top starter bolt and starter
Once past the engine mount studs remove engine mounts
Lower engine trans assembly

 

Awesome job. About how long did it take?

 

Congrats man,good job.

 

Gatortt... i really didn't keep track of the hours as I do not have any time restrictions. I really took my time to keep the mess to a minimum. If i felt like working on the car i did, if i didn't i didn't. For me it took 18 days

But really I think if you were to stick with it I'm sure it could be dropped in 8-10 hours. I'm sure people that have done this before could do it much quicker.

 

By yourself with all the tools handy, a clean workspace, and having not done it before expect about 12-16 hours being neat about it(in and out that is). After banging out a couple dozen of them over the years, you'll knock that down to a few hours easy.

Good job sir

 

Good job sir! And what do you consider your prior mechanical experience to be? All my motor in and out experience has been with 5.0L mustangs but have done it plenty! Besides that just shade tree stuff. But I'm much wiser and more disciplined than I was 18 years ago!

 

I would say my skill level as average at best. I did this by myself on jackstands. I would think if you have previous experience with removing engines you will have no trouble at all.

 

Nice Job man!

Are you going with the 996 style bracket conversion or the 993 style tap the case?

If its the 996 style, just a quick note, you may want to adjust the length of the slave actuator rod while you have the car still up. I believe that slightly shortening it will lower your engagement point down to the middle of the pedal throw again.



I never did this when I put the clutch and GT2 conversion in, and its a minor annoyance that never seems worth the effort to fix. On the list for the winter tho!

Jet me a PM if you need an extra set of hands to reinstall, I am just down in Akron.

Tom

 

Thanks for the tip. I am using the evoms kit, the kit did come with a new rod that is a replacement for the original. I will see if it is shorter.

Also thanks for the help offer, hopefully things go together as well as it came apart

 

That rod is just a "new" 996tt slave rod, I believe. When you pull the old slave and "bomb" out can you get a length on the EVOMS and the stock 996tt? Since your engine is out, I would cap the old booster line back by the pump and not by the tranny.

Tom

 

Good to hear! Then I'm gonna go pull mine right now!! just for fun!! jK.... I planning on building a motor over next couple years with all those parts I have for sale....if they don't sell! So that gonna be the real test! I just want to have a long block already built and even new accessories and intake manifold so I have nothing but little hoses and crap to change over with as little downtime as possible. Don't worry, I will document everything! Even the explosion on start up!!

QUOTE=TurboTodd;3392742]I would say my skill level as average at best. I did this by myself on jackstands. I would think if you have previous experience with removing engines you will have no trouble at all.[/QUOTE]

 

What a great day!! I removed that #^#@*&!! power clutch slave. I have always had burning hate for that set up. I am glad it is gone forever.

I compared the OEM slave rod with the one from the evoms kit. The rod on the left is OEM and on the right evoms. Clearly the evoms rod is longer.