Thanks for the pic! I wonder if I needed a longer one not a shorter as I believed. A lot depends on the clutch that is installed as well.

Tom

 

i don't think it depends on the clutch since the actuation is going to be the same for every clutch since you retain the same clutch fork and bearing.

I beleive the length of the rod as to do with where exactly is the actuator installed. For example, if their bracket made the cylinder closer to the bell housing, it would need a shorter rod. same thing if the slave cylinder was 6" farther from the fork, the length of the rod would need to be 6" longer.

but the slave cylinder of the gt2 and the turbo should have the same travel otherwise you will end up with a clutch that doesn't completly disengage or it will disengage too much (if there is such a thing). The only thing that can change the distance of travel of the pedal is if one of the cylinder needs more volume of fluid to be moved than the other. And it shouldn't. Friction point can also be changed by the way the pressure plate is designed but generally, the porsche clutch kit all uses the same pressure plate that is being modified for stronger fingers.

 

I love your thread by the way, thanks for sharing with everyone, this is going to be REALLY helpfull in the future.

You should put your thread in the knowledge base forum.

 

humm my engagement point is not even close to stock, either before or after the GT2 conversion. . . .my clutch is far from stock.

 

you mean with a new clutch? is it higher or lower (pedal speaking)?

see the last sentence of my post, it can be specific to your pressure plate. I don't think you will be able to fix this. Well maybe you could but it is risky because if you modify the length of the rod, that would mean it would be the equivalent of having always your foot a little bit on the clutch. It might not be enough to disengage the pressure plate but who knows? If the clutch starts slipping because you are pushing the clutch pedal a little bit running a lot of power (like you seem to have in your sig) it might not last very long.

 

Friction material might play a role too, if one hooks up better than an other, you might need to disengage the clutch even more for it to grab or let go. It might not slip like a stock clutch can do.

 

What is this "slip" you are talking about?
I have an on/off switch right at the top of my pedal travel. I have a RSS clutch stop and that helps a bit, but I was hoping that I could alter the point where the slave rod begins pushing by shortening/ lengthening it.

But lets get back on topic here, this is too nice a thread to gum up!

Tom

 

Lets gum it up ! The porpose of the thread is sharing info on the complete engine drop and installation of all the components. I will be posting pics along the way. Next is removal of the trans , clutch / flywheel install and the gt2 slave conversion.

I want to be positive I have the correct rod! My hope is that this longer rod will keep the engagement point further down near stock. Why else would they provide a longer rod?

BTW i am going to install CM stage 3 with LWFW.

 

Your clutch should feel pretty close to mine then . . .what turbos are you going with?

Have you researched the LWFW? I thought about it but decided the downside was a bit to much. Lots of good threads here about them.

Tom

 

I have the alpha 28's sit n on the shelf just waiting for action.

I like the quick rev of the LWFW, revs like a race car

 

Removed the trans today. super easy with the engine removed. Not going into too much detail here as it has been covered many times on 6speed. Thanks talisman013 for a great write up!
Tip... I didn't have an M6 bolt to remove the pivot shaft. The long bolt that holds the flywheel sensor worked perfect.

I am thinking I should somehow lock the flywheel. Is there a tool for this?

Does it hurt anything to turn the engine?

 

P201b tool I believe. I've got one in garage. It's only about 25$ or so.

 

Rennfab had a very simple solution, just stick something in the front pulley and that will lock it. Thanks again Rennfab!!

Also got the answer on the slave rod right from evoms

Todd,

We space out the slave cylinder so we need a longer rod to compensate for that extra throw required. You should be using the longer rod.

Cheers,


Ian Ferguson
Sales Manager
Evolution MotorSports
www.evoms.com
www.evomsit.com
p: 480.317.9911
f: 480.317.9901

 

yeah that's what i was saying

 

Exactly .. thanks!