Engine drop and bolt on mods
#91
Ya, I hear that pumptech, think how happy everybody would be if it was all possible, but I'll let you go first.
Pumalex, that fitting issue always makes me nervous. Probably why I haven't gone on any long road trips lately. I did check the ones I can see and there still fine. Hope I didn't just jinx myself.
Pumalex, that fitting issue always makes me nervous. Probably why I haven't gone on any long road trips lately. I did check the ones I can see and there still fine. Hope I didn't just jinx myself.
#92
Quoted for truth. Sometimes they'll weep before the pop.
If you pic up a UV penlight/dye kit you can likely source the leak by pulling a few parts out(airbox, ypipe, etc) and poking around the car on a dark night or in a sealed garage/lights off. You can visually inspect the fittings in this manner, just can't access them easily with the motor in the car.
You can buy a cheap UV penlight used for testing AC systems at most autoparts stores. The actual coolant dye you may have to buy elsewhere. It's a little different than the stuff used in AC systems.
#94
Pretty much finished up the gt2 conversion. No surprises here. Just need to install the engine/trans connect the coupler and bleed. I used the kit from evoms and just followed the instructions. Except the instructions say to use the old slave rod. The kit comes with a rod that evoms recommends that you use.
Before I started I pushed all the pentosin out though the slave bleeder with an empty motive bleeder. Then disconnected the line to the slave and flushed with denatured alcohol using the motive bleeder. Then disconnected the lines from the master and flushed everything with brake kleen and compressed air. Those lines are clean !!!
I also sucked all the pentosin out of the pump. All this effort resulted in a mess free install.
Next it is on to fuel injectors. This should be exciting as I have never done this before. But then again I have never done any of this before
Before I started I pushed all the pentosin out though the slave bleeder with an empty motive bleeder. Then disconnected the line to the slave and flushed with denatured alcohol using the motive bleeder. Then disconnected the lines from the master and flushed everything with brake kleen and compressed air. Those lines are clean !!!
I also sucked all the pentosin out of the pump. All this effort resulted in a mess free install.
Next it is on to fuel injectors. This should be exciting as I have never done this before. But then again I have never done any of this before
#95
New 60lb injectors are in!!
I am using the 60lb Siemens injectors from Markski at 911tuning
These new injectors are longer than the originals so Markski also has adapter spacers you can get with them. At first I could not get the new injectors and rail to fit right. Then Markski to the rescue. I make an mistake when installing the injectors onto the rails. I had the clip in the wrong slot. I also had to elongate the rail bolt holes with a file. No big deal. From there everything went smoothly. One other thing. While I was in there I thought I would check the tightness of the gear clamps on the intake runners. They were lose! I snugged them up, glad I checked them.
Cut and remove zip ties holding wiring harness
Remove plastic harness
Fuel return line bracket bolt
Remove injector connectors by pushing up on the spring and pulling off
Main fuel line 17 and 19 wrench
Remove two 10mm bolts holding fuel rail
Remove fuel rail
Unclip injector from rail
Tighten intake runner gear clamps
Install spacers
Elongate fuel rail holes with round file
Lubricate o rings on new injectors
Install new injectors onto rail using upper groove
Assemble in reverse order
I am using the 60lb Siemens injectors from Markski at 911tuning
These new injectors are longer than the originals so Markski also has adapter spacers you can get with them. At first I could not get the new injectors and rail to fit right. Then Markski to the rescue. I make an mistake when installing the injectors onto the rails. I had the clip in the wrong slot. I also had to elongate the rail bolt holes with a file. No big deal. From there everything went smoothly. One other thing. While I was in there I thought I would check the tightness of the gear clamps on the intake runners. They were lose! I snugged them up, glad I checked them.
Cut and remove zip ties holding wiring harness
Remove plastic harness
Fuel return line bracket bolt
Remove injector connectors by pushing up on the spring and pulling off
Main fuel line 17 and 19 wrench
Remove two 10mm bolts holding fuel rail
Remove fuel rail
Unclip injector from rail
Tighten intake runner gear clamps
Install spacers
Elongate fuel rail holes with round file
Lubricate o rings on new injectors
Install new injectors onto rail using upper groove
Assemble in reverse order
#96
Things are progressing very well. I had a little down time waiting for parts so I thought I would to a pressure test from the throttle body. I want to do everything I can and correct problems while the engine is out. I used Markski's excellent boost tester to do the test. Before the test I replaced all the $*&&#@! OEM hose clamps with real worm drive clamps. I also zip tied every vacuum/ pressure hose. I also replaced the throttle body o ring and the check valve that have been a problem for some.
The test results were good. It held 20psi but very slowly lost pressure. It would lose about one psi per minute. I found the small leak by the deverter valves. both valves were leaking right by the small hose nipple. I used a mityvac to pressurize the valve to verify it it was the nipple on the deverter valve not the hose.
Another good place to look for leaks.
The test results were good. It held 20psi but very slowly lost pressure. It would lose about one psi per minute. I found the small leak by the deverter valves. both valves were leaking right by the small hose nipple. I used a mityvac to pressurize the valve to verify it it was the nipple on the deverter valve not the hose.
Another good place to look for leaks.
#97
For anyone interested in this long thread I though I would share a couple of pics. Engine is all ready to go back in. The install is going very smoothly. Some have made the comment the dropping the engine is the easy part. Installing it is another. I have found that installing it is actually easier than taking it out. I think that is due to me learning the car, and now I know where everything goes. One thing I think really helped was when I removed the engine I marked the floor the position of the jacks. That way when going back in alls I had to do was line up the marks and everything was lined up.
Now its just a matter of connecting everything up. I sure hope things continue to progress smoothly.
Now its just a matter of connecting everything up. I sure hope things continue to progress smoothly.
#99
I feel the same way!!!.....It looks easy now after reading TurboTodd This spring I will go for it!!!!
#101
TurboTodd- This has been a great thread to follow. I'm thinking of dropping my motor too, in the next two months, and now am actually thinking about doing it myself thanks to your great tips. Marking the floor saves a ton of time and aggravation when doing the reinstall. With the motor out I'm going to do as many upgrades and hardware improvements as I can do and afford. Thanks for sharing.
#102
It's alive !!
Got the engine in and everything hooked up. I first removed the fuel pump fuse and cranked it over a few times to get oil in the engine. Then installed the fuse and just tuned on the key to get fuel pressure. Check for any fuel leaks and there were none. Hit start and as you can see it started right away. I am amazed that it started so easy and ran so smooth right from the get go. Have to credit that Markski custom tune. The other thing I did is when I shut it down I pulled the turbo drip tank plugs to make sure there was oil and there was.
Everything went perfect. No leaks, smoke, bad self destructing sounds, no explosions or anything.
The sound is pure music. With beautiful,gorgeous Tial Alpha28s , Markski intake and a catless 3" X flow exhaust the sound is incredible. The video does not do it justice.
Got the engine in and everything hooked up. I first removed the fuel pump fuse and cranked it over a few times to get oil in the engine. Then installed the fuse and just tuned on the key to get fuel pressure. Check for any fuel leaks and there were none. Hit start and as you can see it started right away. I am amazed that it started so easy and ran so smooth right from the get go. Have to credit that Markski custom tune. The other thing I did is when I shut it down I pulled the turbo drip tank plugs to make sure there was oil and there was.
Everything went perfect. No leaks, smoke, bad self destructing sounds, no explosions or anything.
The sound is pure music. With beautiful,gorgeous Tial Alpha28s , Markski intake and a catless 3" X flow exhaust the sound is incredible. The video does not do it justice.