Will the GT2 kits work for a daily driver? No track but some fun runs on weekends.

 

Guys -
Thanks again for all the info; I really appreciate it.

I will go ahead and try the HVT spray brake paint on ONE caliper. I will also use HVT paint with a stencil for the Porsche letters, and HVT clear coat and will report back on the results. My next track event is not until mid-February but wish me luck. If that doesn't work, then will call Eli.

Also, thanks for the parts numbers - definitely need those for the track!

 

The only coating that going to stand up to any sort of repeated thermal abuse(Ie track braking) is to send them out and have the caliper bodies hard anodized. It's expensive and limits you to a couple colors(basically black/gray-ish and a few colors like red, blue, etc). You can have them anodized in other colors, but most anodizing is not UV resistant and will fade over time.

The very expensive endurance calipers from companies like Alcon, Wilwood, AP, etc use hard anodizing(calipers that cost $2-4K EACH).

I have used Electrolizing Corp in the past. www.electrohio.com


It's unfortunately the nature of the beast. And I agree with the powdercoating....do NOT do it on calipers you plan to track.

 

By the way, I just ordered the rear gt2 ducts from pelican parts - $90 per side. My rears are definitely getting hotter than the fronts so every bit helps!

 

It seems that pwdrhound found a good solution though. His calipers look perfect after several track events. By the way, here is a nice pic of the front air scoops: stock, gt3 street, gt3 cup. big difference!

 

The bottom duct in your picture is what you want. It's not the cup duct but very similar. The 996 Cup car duct (the part numbers I gave you) is actually a made from two pieces riveted together and is even marginally deeper. Take a close look at the picture of the duct in my early post and you will see the difference. The Cup duct is actually an OEM 996tt duct with an extension riveted onto it by Porsche Motorsport...
Another thing you can do is go to larger 350mm rotors and the 6 piston calipers. Both will help dissipate heat better for track work. I run 350mm floating slotted front and rear....

 

I looked at your picture and can see the difference. Someone posted this picture with the caption as gt3 cup but but I see what you are saying. I know I will eventually have to move to larger brakes and rotors.
Thanks forall the info.

 

If you really are a do it your-selfer and want to save $$ then why not step up your game.
I do not know if you have a compressor at home but if you do ---> Buy yourself a cheaper touch up spray gun and then use higher end paint.

You can get an OK HVLP gun (high volume low pressure) for less than $100. For someone who rarely paints it will last for many many years as long as it is cleaned well after use. I have several guns that are well over 20 years old. Now they are not state of the art and the finish they lay down is not perfect; but I am not painting your Porsche with it....

90% of the quality of a good paint job is in the prep prior to paint. The final 10% is in the spray and the finishing. If you do not want to spend the money to prep you will never have good work no matter what you spray on.
I know your area has places that will rent out or do chemical stripping and media blasting; that is where you need to start.
Initially with this project you may spend almost as much money as if you had paid someone to do it for you but down the road it will only cost you a fraction of the price.
Many people on here are either un-able or un-willing to do this kind of project themselves. Be it for time reasons or fiscal smarts or for whatever reason. But I find if someone really wants to do something they can.
If you are cheap or just want to have some fun with a project and can't fathom paying someone $700 to do a job you could do for less than $100 if you have the tools then Go Nuts. There are tons of how to videos on you tube to guide you through the process.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hvlp-detail-spray-gun-46719.html here is a cheapo gun that would work and you can even check places like NAPA or whatever you have close to you.

 

^This is great advice.

 

Thanks - really good perspective. Do you have any experience with what's involved with chemical stripping? Given all the rubber seals in the calipers I would be afraid of having someone do it and get some nasty chemicals on the rubber that may make it fall apart. I wonder if there's some kind of chemical I can use to remove myself. This does seem much more complicated than I originally thought but now it starts to make sense why someone can charge $500+ for this job.

 

Considering what's involved in doing this correctly, $500 or so is very reasonable in my opinion. If I had the skill to do it for someone i wouldnt charge a penny less......

 

My 996 TT also sees quite a bit of track use. The paint on the calipers is actually holding up quite well, but the original "PORSCHE" lettering was fading badly. I used some mild rubbing compound to take it off, and tried the vinyl letters. Obviously, not the right choice for a car that sees track use. The lettering yellowed and turned brittle after one DE weekend. When I took what was left of the lettering off, it had left a dark discoloration of the 'PORSCHE" script under the lettering. More mild rubbing compound. Ordered some PORSCHE stencils and got some VHT high-temp white paint (said to be good for calipers and engines). Guess what - - - a lot of labor for some less than stellar results. While the lettering looked good initially, after a couple of DE events, it has begun to noticeably yellow as well. I'm thinking that I may just live without the lettering until the car's ready for its next owner (not any time soon however), and at that time, just go back with the while vinyl lettering which will work fine on a street-only driven car.

 

OK now I must caveat this... I find this kind of job just very simple. When it comes to mechanical things I am R2D2 --> I can look at something and just know how it works, if I can't tell how it works I want to take it apart to figure it out. Whereas C3PO would do the math and tell U all the formula's on what are the odds of most people being able to do the job were; I'd just get it done.
Ahhh yeah here I go opening up a bag of worms that could get you into trouble but we all have to start somewhere.
Chemical stripper can be found at any decent pain shop, auto parts store, or for the kind of paint you have been using it can be found at your bigger, better hardware stores. 3m makes product, polly stripper, Behr brand... There are many, all of them are messy, gross and stink.
There would be numerous auto stores in your area that would also sell some form of paint stripper. There is a store that was right in Hayward that I always liked for that kind of thing.
The callipers all come apart quite easily, but the trick is getting them apart without damaging anything. Usually it is the pistons that get damaged; and it is done by people that just do not show any finesse. A simple way to remove the pistons is with compressed air then your hands. The only thing holding the pistons in is the friction of the sealing O-rings and maybe a dust boot. You use low pressure to blow the pistons out most of the way; equally and not all the way. You stop them from coming out all the way by putting a soft material between them thick enough so as to not let them slam together or completely fly out, or at high rate of speed. I myself use two tapered wood shims. The tapered wood shims are nice because you can vary the thickness just by sliding them together more or less till you get them as thick as you need. Once the pistons are about 80% out you should be able to easily wiggle them out with your fingers; if not blow them a wee bit more till U can. Don't think about using a set of pliers or like device on the piston, they are fragile and the surface finish is smooth and important. Wear safety glasses and do this in an area where some brake fluid will not spray out onto anything important. (AKA nicely painted Porsche)
Once all the pistons are out you can remove the o-rings from there groove with a o-ring pick or a small flat screw driver, be careful to not stab or rip the o-rings -> note!!!!!!!!! Look at the o-rings and pistons for any features that might necessitate them being put back in a certain hole or direction The o-rings are usually just square o rings but some of them have small tapers on their faces. Remove any other hardware from the calliper; once it is off you are ready to stip.
Many people think they want enough stripper to submerse the whole calliper. Well that is not needed. Put the calliper inside a plastic bag, it use's way less chemical stripper and you can let it soak for a decent amount of time if needed. Depending of the chemical you use the results will vary in terms of time and results. I cannot tell you every detail but if you are slightly mechanical you will be able to figure this out pretty easily.
If your car is slightly older you should consider getting rebuild O-ring kits for the callipers prior to reassembly.
For reassembly the pistons will require some muscle to put them back in place, if not by hand the aid of a C-clamp or wood clamp is needed. Lube the o-rings and make sure the pistons are started nice and square. Sometimes it can be a pain to put the dust boots in there grooves on certain callipers.
Either way it is not hard to do this complete job.
If you really want some more info PM me and we can get you a number then you can ask questions. I type faster than I talk.
Cheers
EG

Here I am adding a Video for you.


Here is one more, don't do like this guy and use your fingers for a potential stopper, and you can always turn your air pressure down, you do not have to use 80 to 120 psi. Ahhh yeah people are such hacks, but this is close enough of an explaination.

PS: Using break fluid for a lube like the guy did in the second video can eat the finish away on your nice newly paint caliper, he was working on junk. I use a grape seed oil.