From what i see the GT2 slave is the same just the mirror of the stock one.

 

No ratttle here - just a very low engagement point. Based on the GT2 transmission machining, I would say on the TT to add 1/4" to the rod and consider it done.

Mine works perfectly with no machining or added length, so by adding the 1/4", you would move the engagement point up a bit, which in my opinion would be perfect.

 

I would be worried that 1/4" would cause the clutch to slip especially once the disk thickness wears down because there would be constant pressure on the fork. Based on the pictures and the machined area 1/8" should get you where you want to be.

 

Looking at the area machined in the pic above and the casting marks on my transmission 1/4" is right on. 1/8" may work just fine too.

Because it is not pefectly parallel on the stock TT transmission, Maybe i should measure at the center where the rod is. I measured the thickest part. It may be closer to 1/8" there.

 

I did not add anything to the shaft when using the stock type clutch when I first did this mod. No rattling either. I had the motor and trans out and when I installed the slave the spring behind the piston was being compressed about 3/4 an inch.

 

Where does your clutch engage on the pedal?

 

Ok, so today I got the GT2 clutch master and assist spring installed. Not to bad of a job. I recommend doing this with all the fluid blown out of the lines.

I ordered this hose, will this work with the GT2 clutch slave? Are the line fittings the same on the slaves cylinders? I have not pulled the slave out of the car, it's just hanging there at the moment.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TORQUE-SOLUT...item2c611b09ba

 

[quote=02turbo996;3415268]Ok, so today I got the GT2 clutch master and assist spring installed. Not to bad of a job. I recommend doing this with all the fluid blown out of the lines.

I ordered this hose, will this work with the GT2 clutch slave? Are the line fittings the same on the slaves cylinders? I have not pulled the slave out of the car, it's just hanging there at the moment.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TORQUE-SOLUT...9ba[/quote]

It depends on the threaded fitting on the end. That is the slave side. My understanding is their are two different size threads between the the various g50 slave cylinders. But the good thing is the threaded end in question appears to be an AN type fitting that attaches to the braided hose. The AN fittings are sized by # (#3, #4, #5 #6 etc). That means the fitting can be sourced and replaced relatively easy if needed.

 

What's with this "power" spring 996-423-081-19-M100for the clutch vs. the one i ordered 996-423-081-18?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...er%20Spring%29

 

I believe the GT2 comes with a different helper spring rate than the turbo for the spring on top of the clutch pedal.

 

This is a good read on the clutch spring topic. I removed mine and it helped the feel of the clutch quite well!

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...matically.html

 

This explains it, the part number recomended in anouther thread was wrong.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...C%20Each%20%20

 

ok, after further research, the part ending in "1-19" is for 2004 and up cars. I don't see why because the rest of the pedal parts are the same. If it's a stiffer spring, i'll change it out because it'll help make the pedal softer.

Can anyone out there that has access to these do a spring pressure test for us?

 

I updated the first post. Please read if you plan to do this.

 

Thanks for everything. I may plan on doing this mod in the future. I take it there is too little material on the end of the fork to remove, too close to the depression for the rod?

Also, I took the booster spring out of my C2 996 clutch pedal assy and it increased the feel but increased the effort. The harder pedal was a plus, is the GT2 mod too stiff without the booster?