How is this setup running after several months to get used to it?

 

I'd like to know too.

 

tell me!

 

I had this conversion done a few months back and the GT2 slave/rod is the perfect length without any modifications. Just bolt it up and go. I have a stage 2 Sachs clutch. This is what the OP found out also after fiddling with various rod lengths. He settled on the stock GT2 length.

 

just so everyone knows the op has sold his turbo and moved on to bmw. he stepped back in shortly to post links for the i/c build he did but rarely comes here anymore

 

Do you need the GT2 fork for this mod or is just the slave ok?

 

You need the GT2 fork

 

Thx, i was just trying to find a parts list. After searching a while, i found a good thread( other than this post) with a good list.

 

guys, i run evoms gt2 slave and ERP clutch, can anybody let me know how long the rod should be ? i didnt tap the drill the case as my old cluctchmasters stage3+evoms gt2 conversion kit were running great with stock rod and no tapping..

Should i consider drilling the case and running longer rod instead ?

 

theres no rod change needed. if you run the oem setup the gt2 rod length is the proper size. pedal engagement will depend on the clutch you use. its a hyd clutch if you shorten the rod the fluid will just fill the space and no change will happen. shorten it to much and the you will blow out the seals in the slave. to long and engagement will suffer or cause binding of the throwout bearing

if you have the bracket setup i wouldn't change to oem unless theres a broken part or a problem in the system. this was designed simply to allow for a gt2 setup without having to drop and drill the tt transmission.

 

+1 that's the answer i was looking for, thank you !

I will have to check somewhere else why after a long WOT pull i am not able to downshift for 20-30 seconds... upshifting works ok and downshifting too but after 20seconds or so

 

I also want to make the drill and tap method for the GT2 slave.
Maybe also I want get the surface machined in a local shop, but only when I get the correct measures/ dimensions.
Is there any Way to get the original Dimensions/ drawings or somebody can measure at his gearbox for some reference?


Thanks

 

There's no need to machine the face or change the length of the rod. Hit the flat with a grinder to smooth it and drill the stud holes.i went to the last thread over 1" and had room to spare. You can see we're the studs go from inside the bellhousing

 

With all of this talk of rod length, has anyone considered making an adjustable rod? Seems like you could take the stock one and fit a threaded sleeve and locking nut to come up with something that would allow for adjustment. Am I crazy? Seems like different clutches sometimes do require a change in rod length - yuck.

 

...Sounds pretty dangerous unless you could absolutely guarantee the nut could not come loose. It would be a major PITA to have to remove the trans because the nut came loose.

Also, the rod is easy enough to shorten!