drill and tap for me.

 

That was where I was going with it. Bracket- needs longer rod
Drill and tap- does not.

Even then I'm not sure it will change the point of engagement.

 

Engagement point doesn't change with rod length. But the bracket method does require a longer rod to prevent the slave from falling apart. If the rod is too short, the piston in the slave cylinder will pop out of the end of the slave when you fully depress the clutch.

I tried a number of different rod lengths (ended up making my own out of a steel rod) and none of them changed the engagement point. The engagement point is primarily determined by the clutch itself.

 

Good point!

 

I'd think modding the master would do it though.

Or a clutch stop...I'd do that instead of modding the master but I'm ok with my engagement point with the new clutch, flywheel and slave conversion.

 

A stop just limits the travel right? Don't you end up with a pedal that doesn't have much movement? Has to be adjusted if the clutch wears much? Really sux the OEM setup has no adjustment!

 

Ya but to me that was frustrating part. I could deal with the small window of engagement. I was just lacking the muscle memory of the first part of engagement.

 

My RSTi grabs about 2inches off the damn floor. I really really hate having engagement at either limit of the travel and I will be working to solve that on that car come Spring. The 996, with stock hydraulics engages FAR higher. I don't like that either but it's not so high the clutch isn't fully engaging and not so low it isn't fully disengaging - but swapping between them is a serious PITA. Removing the spring that was PULLING my clutch pedal up really helped with feel. for some reason folks think that thing is a helper spring, it's not unless you count it keeping the CC switch engaged! I'm going to adjust the CC spring instead and leave that piece of evil out. I will swap to GT2 hardware next my clutch is out, nice to have the list of parts to begin gathering!

 

Good point! Travel may be overcome by using some boxer parts. Working on this remedy as I type...

 

Sorry "BLKMGK." I was quoting "Stilov, I think it may apply to both though.

 

guys you overthinking this. its hydraulic. no matter what rods in what place you use it the hydraulics overcome the excess travel. the only way your going to change the height of the pedal of any clutch installed is to change the angle of the pedal itself. the triple disk clutches seem to raise the point due to the amount of plates and position of the t/o bearing in relation to the factory clutch but once the gt2 slave is in place it is a consistent engagement. muscle memory will be the easiest and cheapest way to go

 

My Subaru has an adjustable length rod to change point of engagement, all of the STi do. Length of rod will change where in the pedal travel the engagement point occurs because it changes the point where the pressure is high enough to get the movement required. Changing angles can change rate of pressure build up which should change pedal feel and perhaps give a larger slip area if you can get finer movement by slower pressure change rate. We aren't completely at the mercy of the clutch pressure plate

 

First, two separate cars with two different systems. Maybe they are designed exactly the same, but you're assuming that because something works on an STi that it'll work on our cars.

Also, you're talking about adjusting the rod length of master cylinder, right? That may effect the pedal travel and to a certain extent engagement point. You're basically taking the play out of the pedal's connection to the master and preloading the hydraulic system. But again, that's assuming our systems actually have a significant amount of play in the pedal/master assembly like the STi apparently does.

But that's not what we're talking about when we refer to "rod length." We're referring to the rod length at the slave cylinder end. Adjusting the rod length at the slave end won't have any affect on engagement point unless the rod is *WAY* too short and there's play in the clutch TOB fork.

 

Actually no, I'm talking about adjusting the rod into the master, the point made prior to the post I'm quoting about adjusting slave rod length made sense. The only issue I can see with doing this is pushing too much fluid and overextending the slave. A clutch stop can prevent this, one is already available even.

It might also be possible to change bore but harder to do with OEM parts I'd imagine. As to design, is it not a fixed ratio pedal? I understand the concept

P.S. I've ordered a Boxster clutch master to see what can be done with it.

 

Keep me on the loop on the boxer slave. I spoke with a spec boxer nut, he said he could probably make this work.