I purchased the agency power gt2 kit but havent really been that happy with it. The way its mounted up top, makes the rod push at an angle, also it doesnt have a boot and i have had some issues with rubbing at the top of the opening. So i went with mounting the gt2 slave as per this thread. Big thanks to OP and everyone else, especially with the fork rubbing issue as i have shaven the top of the transmission to take the gt2 fork and it slides great now. Some pics. really happy with the feel, im using the stock rod engagement seams fine.

 

And since this discussion has come up again: changing the rod length will not change the height of the engagement point.

As 32Krazy and Dr.J posted one page back, as long as you are within the operating ranges of the master/slave combination, the hydraulic system takes up any slack. This is the advantage of a hydraulic system vs. a mechanical linkage or cable. The hydraulic system adjusts itself by drawing hydraulic fluid from the reservoir to compensate for wear. It works just like the brakes. You will always be pushing the same amount of fluid with a full stroke of the master cylinder. As the clutch wears, the piston in the slave cylinder will be a little further down the bore at rest - and there will be slightly more fluid in the slave to take up the slack. Same happens when you change the rod length. You move the point where the slave piston rests up and down the bore.

 

I know some hydraulic systems are adjustable but I think the adjustment occurs at the pedal rod. My Subaru comes to mind, m to.d it can be adjusted but it requires crawling under the dash and I've been lazy. Anyone tried that? Would be so much simpler if the clutch stack height didn't vary from one manufacturer to another as I think that's where the issue stems...

 

I know nothing about Subarus (except maybe this LOL), but making adjustment unnecessary is one of the big advantages of a hydraulic system. That and the fact that you can route hydraulic lines through convoluted passages and over long distances w/o issues - unlike a mechanical linkage. Adjustment would only be necessary if the travel for the clutch required an operating distance longer than the travel of the piston in the slave cylinder. And that sounds silly - but the guys at Subaru will have known what they are doing.

You are not going to change the release point of a 996tt clutch with the GT2 components with a longer or shorter rod, though.

 

Pedal rod does it on the subbies. I bought a Boxter master, which is used for the GT2 conversion, but sadly I see no easy way to make it adjustable. I suppose I'll worry about it if I end up with a clutch that doesn't engage properly...

http://www.subaru-impreza.org/forum/...ur-clutch.html

 

Oh, I see what you are worried about. Yes, for an aftermarket clutch with a different throw and release point than stock, you could end up with a PITA trying to determine the proper length of the rod. But if the throw of the clutch is compatible with the slave / clutch fork combination, your release point will remain the same once you get inside the travel limits of the slave piston. As long as you stay within those limits, lengthening or shortening the rod will not change the feel at the pedal.

Once again, I can not comment on the Subarus. But changing the length of the pedal rod will change the height of the pedal - so yes, that will feel different. And in conjunction with a stop on the pedal, you could be limiting the throw at the clutch.

But if the pedal height was wrong in the 996, Porsche would have gotten the GT2 wrong. New, aftermarket clutch, new game.

 

No worries SRM is working on a billet adjustable clutch pedal

 

What I want to be able to adjust is the engagement point. My Subbie catches LOW and I'm told that adjusting the rod at the pedal will allow for a higher engagement. I suppose that would have to raise the pedal to work since as you've pointed out movement of one correlates to the other. I just hate having a clutch catch really low or worse rally high, a clutch stop seems like an awful crutch to me...

 

Any suggestions what to use to blank out the original slave hole?

 

Goto big box store, head for electrical section, find one of those block off buttons. Might be plumbing? I've seen it mentioned a few times, I'd rtv it in.

 

Home depot hardware section. Specialty drawers. Chrome caps pop right in 1$

 

Ok, we dont have those stores here in norway, but thanks for the pointers, i'll see if i can find something similar.

Two questions.
Is it really necessary to replace the booster spring with the gt2 item?

Also how do you find exactly where to drill?

 

No i dont run a spring at all

Pop the slave rod out. Set the slave on the trans at the edge . It lines up perfectly with mounting bosses cast inside the bellhousing . Mark and drill

 

It's not necessary but the stiffer GT2 spring is there to offset the effort of the non boosted GT2 clutch system. There is a reason why Porsche put it there. I changed mine to the GT2 item and everything works perfectly as designed by the factory. I see no reason not to install the GT2 booster spring unless you want the clutch to be stiffer that it already will be.

 

ok cool, then i'll remove the spring from the list.

Is GT2 master sylinder is needed or isnt that necessary either?