# 16 is the issue... I changed 3 of them in last 2 months...
thats the check valve for that plastic line.. if it's still not holding then there is a built in one inside that plastic line.... you can unclamp it and blow thru it downstream.. if its coming out on the other end its busted.. you need a new $160 line...

 

Marski, Do you happen to have one in stock that you can sell me ???? or rent until mine comes in, then I can ship my new one to you ?

 

lol no I do not and P car dealerships do not stock them...

 

would stock it. Since it's just a check valve, one would think there would be a VAG part equivalent, possibly from Audi S4 or VW parts database. Could have sworn my B5 S4 had a similar check valve.

 

Its the compete #19 not just the valve.. its glued to the line... but I would test it first .. you can...

 

19 could be the problem, at least in the context of pressure testing, as part 19 is DISCONNECTED during pressure testing, as the intake piping before the turbo has been removed, and part 19 was disconnected from the intake piping during the removal process.

This is how I'm visualizing the air flow. The blue arrows next to the check valves represent which way these ONE way valves WILL allow air flow. The red line/arrows are showing what I think is happening because PART 16 is NOT functioning, and allowing air to pass from the intake plenum, through the check valve #16, then through part 15, through the check valve at the end of part 19, and down the vent tube to the connector at the end of part 19.



Sorry if I'm an idiot, just trying to understand the airflow. I hate to part swap, without knowing the probability is high that I have isolated the proper part. I assume the air could be coming from an issue relating to part 14, have not researched were this is fed from.

 

air goes the other way...vacuum....

 

Mark you are wrong. The check valves arrow indicates flow to the turbo, just like in JSBear's red line drawing. JS pm in bound.

 

the end that clamps onto the turbo piping cannot be blowing any pressure out... jet lag (lol ) got back from Europe... thus the first check valve #16 cannot be blowing both ways... nor the one thats glues into the black hose on top... IDK if Im explaining right... I fixed that numerous times... those valves are rated at 18 psi max..

 

air would flow the other way. But since check vavle 16 is not not holding pressure, it's bleading out, as shown in my diagram above, which represents what *I think* (and I'm just a Padawan here) is happening with my car during a pressure test.

Oh well, I'm trying here. I guess at this point, I can lower the engine, and try and figure it out myself.


Thanks for your time.

 

The red line drawing is right. #16 is bad. #19 check valve lets the gas tank vent (when solenoid on 14 is open) into the inlet of the turbo On boost. Off boost the check # 16 lets the Gas vapor into plenum post TB.. Keepin it green Yo! Man I would have stay in Europe for new years.

 

Easy there big cat you got it right. I have the valve sitting on my desk.I can hit the post office tomorrow.

 

and not very easy to get too, this makes it a bit intimidating. I enjoy working on the car, for me it's 50% of the enjoyment. The other 50% is driving it.

The fumes exiting from the vent tube part 19 were nasty, I needed to step away after trying to pressure test a few times.

 

I have to work on NYE.. lol Im a DJ... But Im on no sleep for a few days...
#16 should take care of the issue... I never seen the actual valve on the black plastic hose go bad...

 

i replaced this check valve when it faild , i installed Mitsubishi Evolution check valve which rated for 40psi , and boost were fast