996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Pressure test, not holding pressure

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  #31  
Old 12-30-2011, 09:14 PM
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Thanks for your help, thought I was loosing it for a minute there.

Was just about ready to put it back together and take it to the shop, knowing that there is a 50% chance (at best) that they would be able to find/fix the problem



Originally Posted by MARKSKI@911tuning
I have to work on NYE.. lol Im a DJ... But Im on no sleep for a few days...
#16 should take care of the issue... I never seen the actual valve on the black plastic hose go bad...
 
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Old 12-31-2011, 02:03 PM
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  #33  
Old 01-22-2012, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by JSBear
Was just about ready to put it back together and take it to the shop, knowing that there is a 50% chance (at best) that they would be able to find/fix the problem
Any update on this?h How was the fix? Thanks.
 
  #34  
Old 01-22-2012, 09:45 AM
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In progress, after fixing the check valve mentioned in

this thread, I ran into another issue with the check valve built into part #9 below, this check valve SHOULD block airflow from entering hose part #6. Waiting to get this part from Germany, as it's a special order item like the last one. Should arrive on Tues or Wed of this week, I will get that installed, need to fix another hose as well, then I'll re-check.




Originally Posted by boyg
Any update on this?h How was the fix? Thanks.
 
  #35  
Old 01-22-2012, 12:09 PM
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last car I worked on had the same thing among other leaks.. it will leak around the outer rim...

 
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  #36  
Old 02-04-2012, 12:05 PM
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Btw, I have replaced the #16 today, it is proved to have issue, suppose it should be only one way blowing through but it is "2 way" now.
Howover, it should have another place leaking as it is still building up 0.7 in 1st gear and max 0.9bar @ 3rd gear, even the DME is asking for 1.3 bar in the durametric date log...
 
  #37  
Old 02-04-2012, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by boyg
Btw, I have replaced the #16 today, it is proved to have issue, suppose it should be only one way blowing through but it is "2 way" now.
Howover, it should have another place leaking as it is still building up 0.7 in 1st gear and max 0.9bar @ 3rd gear, even the DME is asking for 1.3 bar in the durametric date log...
disconnect the battery let the ecu reset ... what WGS are you running.. was the car doing 1.3 bar before?
 
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  #38  
Old 02-04-2012, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MARKSKI@911tuning
disconnect the battery let the ecu reset ... what WGS are you running.. was the car doing 1.3 bar before?
Oh, it requires a reset?

The car actually just flashed using softronic a month ago, but it never boost up more than 0.8 0.9, I contacted Scott and he was very helpful to send me different tune files to have a try but it never achieve the 1bar+, so I have the WG replaced, EVOMS one but it didnt help. Finally data logged and shown the requested boost and actual boost is not matching.

Attached is the Durametric log file logged before.
 
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  #39  
Old 02-04-2012, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by boyg
Oh, it requires a reset?

The car actually just flashed using softronic a month ago, but it never boost up more than 0.8 0.9, I contacted Scott and he was very helpful to send me different tune files to have a try but it never achieve the 1bar+, so I have the WG replaced, EVOMS one but it didnt help. Finally data logged and shown the requested boost and actual boost is not matching.

Attached is the Durametric log file logged before.
how do you know where the wgs are set up to start to open. did you inspect your turbos.. make sure the compressor wheel is ok....
when did all this start to happen... k16s or ? maybe you have a restrictive exhaust... ow hot is and what altitude... etc etc etc...
there is a way to run the car in run away boost to see if it do more then 1 bar but Im not going to say you should try it... thats one way of testing if it will even hit 1.3 or more..
 
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  #40  
Old 02-04-2012, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MARKSKI@911tuning
how do you know where the wgs are set up to start to open. did you inspect your turbos.. make sure the compressor wheel is ok....
when did all this start to happen... k16s or ? maybe you have a restrictive exhaust... ow hot is and what altitude... etc etc etc...
there is a way to run the car in run away boost to see if it do more then 1 bar but Im not going to say you should try it... thats one way of testing if it will even hit 1.3 or more..
I am on 100cell fabspeed exhaust, upgraded DVs and intercooler hoses set.

Actually I know and I dont expect it constant to hit 1.3, but at least to have 1.0 1.1 even in lower gear like 2nd, the K16s have been inspected and they work good. Suppose WGS is not must as i am still on stock K16s, but replaced with EVOMS one doesnt improved on the boost. Finally I follow up your posts above and have the check value replaced, it shows defeated but again the boost level is still a bit lower than the tune should have.

May I seed your advise on the way u said not recommeded to do so?
 
  #41  
Old 10-22-2013, 04:00 PM
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I am going to jump onto this thread vs. starting my own. I have been chasing gremlin in the car for a while now, and thought I would start taking them out - one-by-one. I built a pressure tester and did a pressure test over the weekend. I found that when I tried to put 20psi of pressure on the driver's side turbo I could get 20psi to read on the Passenger side turbo, but my air compressor would almost continually run. (loosing that much air.) I filled up the soapy water squirt bottle, and started spraying away. I found my diverters were leaking pretty bad, so I pulled them out - rebuilt them and put them back in.
I reran the pressure test and noticed with everything set up the same I gained 5 psi of pressure and my guage was now reading 25psi.

I also noticed that like Markski states, my #9 valve is leaking around the outer edge. What I am trying to figure out, and have not been able to find an answer.... I am still loosing a lot of air. It appears to be going into the oil system/block as I can hear it if I open the oil cap. I also hear it dumping into the intake system Post MAF but pre-turbos. I can even smell oil fumes if I leave the pressure test going for a while. Is there a check valve like #16 or #9 or another that is associated to an oil vent and intake?

Thanks for the assistance as I am seeing some results from my data logs that confirm a boost leak.
 
  #42  
Old 10-22-2013, 04:20 PM
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Your doing it wrong
You need a tire valve stem that's a one one check valve. You block one turbo and pressure the other
Go to 20 psi. Disconnect the hose and look for issues.
No wonder why you have been chasing gremlins.
Markski
 
  #43  
Old 10-22-2013, 08:30 PM
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Markski,
Currently I am filling up my twin tank portable air compressor to 140psi. I set the regulator to 20 psi and plug in the hose. I verify the pressure on the other side of the turbo is also reading 20 psi and start looking for leaks.
I have currently found leaks at the DV's and Venturi tube #9.
I am leaking air to the point where even if I unplug the air compressor it will drain the air from the system, hoses, and the air compressor tanks in 3-5 minutes. (didn't time it, so just guessing). I can easily switch over the air compressor hose fitting to a tire pressure valve, but would expect the system will drain the pressure so fast I will not be able to locate the leaks.
I ordered both the #16 check valve and #9 venturi tube.
I am not total convinced #16 is having issues as there was no air bleeding into the #19 tube (so maybe that check valve was working) I am replacing it anyway since I will be in there.
What I am trying to locate is the line that is loosing air into what I believe is the oil reservoir and intake on the driver side.
 
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Last edited by trbo4wd; 10-22-2013 at 09:37 PM.
  #44  
Old 10-23-2013, 09:41 PM
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Does anyone know if either of the check valve #21's connect into the oil system? I am looking through the Porsche PET, and it drives me crazy that they don't list where these lines lead off to, or provide a reference to other pages and reference codes like other service manuals!

I have already ordered #9 and #16, but think I need the two #21's as well.
 
  #45  
Old 10-23-2013, 10:16 PM
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not sure you know but you may be creating more problems then you started out with...
most of those valves are rated at 20 psi if that..
how can you finds leaks if you do not close the system off... your doing this wrong period.. if it escapes so fast then yo have a huge problem... you need to find it... but bu blowing constant air into the system is not the right way... you have to turn everything off.. it has to be silent.. you look, listen, spray and find...
I told you what to do but your not listening... put a tire valve stem on it.. put 20 psi and find the issues.. well you found 2... but those are not big leaks...
I suggest doing it form the lower boost hoses.. you will find it faster...
 
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