anyone try this stuff? if so what's your thoughts????

 

Hey Mike ,I tryed it on the dyno with my higher compression,non turbo, motorcycle motors that needed 100 0ctane fuel for max. power....This is only my findings ,,no gain in power with 93 octane as compared to straight 93....I did play with the ignition timing also to confirm...BUT I did try and get an increase with NOS octane booster with 93 octane but still couldnt match the 100 octane gasfor max TQ and HP.....One of the American hot rodding mags a long time back also did a test and came to the results that most do not do anything??
Just sharing my results...

 

Toluene!!!!!!!!

 

just use race gas way better imo

 

It is a product that has its place, by itself it is unlikely to give you any kind of power boost like a good race gas; its chemistry is nowhere near as complex as a good race gas, especially an oxygenated gas. But it will give you some good protection from detonation when you start tuning for it.

The down side to any product like these and race gas is they can be hard on seals and other rubber or plastic parts.

These products can actually hurt performance unless you are running enough boost, compression or timing to necessitate the extra octane, turbo motors are low compression so the problem of poor idle and roughness carries into the areas of general driving at low boost levels.

 

Real leaded race gas,non oxygenated type,is actually easier on the seals,rubber and plastic parts then the blended pump gas of today...
But then the lead is corrosive and deposit build ups form, on the certain types of metals,sensors,cats,spark plugs,valves and in combustion chambers...So,I mixed 106 leaded,non oxy., with 93 oct.in which I made more power then straight 106 and was cleaner...Just sharing the info I know...

 

What do you want to spend money on, cats are real expensive, leaded race fuel is real hard on O2 sensors and cats.

You would make way more power with oxygenated fuel and do less long term damage as long as you did not leave the race gas in there long term. also VP and torco have done lots to formulate gas's that are way more vehicle friendly.

For a car like you are running VP motorsports 109 or Rally Max would work very well.

 

i have a dual file from protomotive. the car runs great on 91 octane but pulls timing to save the engine. on race fuel its a monster.. want to understand more about the harmful effects you talk about, seals, plastic, ect.. my car hits low boost on 91 octane. 1.1-1.3 with the timing being pulled like i said, but hits 1.3 all day long with 100 octane. its really a different car... i would not use either, the race fuel or the torco all the time.. i was just thinking the torco would save me $; this way i don't have to drive around on 1/2 a tank to get to where i need to be to open it up.. your thoughts??

 

[QUOTE=Engine Guy;3447264]What do you want to spend money on, cats are real expensive, leaded race fuel is real hard on O2 sensors and cats.

You would make way more power with oxygenated fuel and do less long term damage as long as you did not leave the race gas in there long term. also VP and torco have done lots to formulate gas's that are way more vehicle friendly.

For a car like you are running VP motorsports 109 or Rally Max would work very well.[/QUOTE.
I was talking in general about this in my competiton motorcycle engines,as stated above..I would never run lead in our cars with cats and O2 sensors..Also it is not awise idea to leave any straight oxygenated race gas in Any fuel system for any amount of time,BAD BAD....As any supplier will tell you..For making power with that fuel helps more so in non turbo apps.....I have dynoed some of these fuels on turbo and non turbo Motorcycle engines..

 

My thoughts, the product does work. If you have a switcher or a way to change tunes for when you are running the stuff it could do for use once you get to your play area.

You might want to give the guys at Prototech a call as they has tested and dynoed the concentrate in P cars.