Coolant pipe repair. Parts needed....
#197
I know some people have used epoxy glue for the anchors. I also had one of my Wej-it becoming flush with the floor but I realized the inside of the column needed shims because the floor was uneven due to the drain being in the center of the garage... . After shimming everything was stable….
#199
Weld or pin?
JP- So, when were you going to tell me about this coolant hose issue? About a month ago, I stated a project (the 100kmi 100 hp/lb-ft bump up) including new injectors that were really going to be hard to do with the engine in, not to mention water pump and hoses, etc. I started thinking about dropping the engine and while I was looking around the forums, I ran into this coolant hose thing. So, its been decided - I'm going to drop it - slowly, I hope.
I have a lift, but that doesn't solve all the problems from what I can see. It seems like the best way will be to get the engine/trans assembly loose and then lower the car down to a hydraulic table, take all the bolts out completely, and then lift the car off the assembly on the table.
Something else I've been thinking about is taking the cross-member and the transmission mounts with the engine. The assembly will then rest on the tranny mount in front and the cross member in the rear, which are nice flat surfaces which will be resting on the nice flat surface of the table. I'm going to check one more time to make sure this can be done and then do it. One thing that this may help with is the problem with lining the assembly up to reinstall, which I've heard is a problem.
Lastly, I'm quite sure I'm going to do the pin job. I don't have a complete picture of this in my mind, but it seems like going all the way through with a bolt would be the best way. I don't think the metal chips from drilling is a real issue if done carefully. The only thing that would be a real problem would be sealing the fixing bolt (or pin). I have never in my whole life been able to get anything that comes in a tube to seal or glue two things together successfully. Except for Loctite 574 for sealing and gluing case halves together.
Thanks again for being a great resource on another 996t project. I'll keep you posted - not sure if this is the right forum - it seems to be car lift/engine removal/pin or weld all-in-one forum, which is OK with me.
Mike
#200
Porject...
Good project!!!
I've heard that those lifts from Amazon have an issue with the hydraulics that can be fixed by either pinning or welding. Another option is to pin it and then weld the bolt in place.
JP- So, when were you going to tell me about this coolant hose issue? About a month ago, I stated a project (the 100kmi 100 hp/lb-ft bump up) including new injectors that were really going to be hard to do with the engine in, not to mention water pump and hoses, etc. I started thinking about dropping the engine and while I was looking around the forums, I ran into this coolant hose thing. So, its been decided - I'm going to drop it - slowly, I hope.
I have a lift, but that doesn't solve all the problems from what I can see. It seems like the best way will be to get the engine/trans assembly loose and then lower the car down to a hydraulic table, take all the bolts out completely, and then lift the car off the assembly on the table.
Yes it is the best way but remember to lower the engine about 4 inches and take care of disconnecting the components on top of the engine, fuel hose, brake vacuum hose, coolant vent line, intake distributor assembly etc.. and after you can lower completely….
Something else I've been thinking about is taking the cross-member and the transmission mounts with the engine. The assembly will then rest on the tranny mount in front and the cross member in the rear, which are nice flat surfaces which will be resting on the nice flat surface of the table. I'm going to check one more time to make sure this can be done and then do it. One thing that this may help with is the problem with lining the assembly up to reinstall, which I've heard is a problem.
Never done it like that but heard it can be done….
Lastly, I'm quite sure I'm going to do the pin job. I don't have a complete picture of this in my mind, but it seems like going all the way through with a bolt would be the best way. I don't think the metal chips from drilling is a real issue if done carefully. The only thing that would be a real problem would be sealing the fixing bolt (or pin). I have never in my whole life been able to get anything that comes in a tube to seal or glue two things together successfully. Except for Loctite 574 for sealing and gluing case halves together.
Mike, think about it…It is a big job to remove the engine and pinning, imho is not "the" final solution….I am not a fan of glue when it is in contact with heat but I'm sure there has to be a proper glue out there but Porsche didn't know about it...….
Thanks again for being a great resource on another 996t project. I'll keep you posted - not sure if this is the right forum - it seems to be car lift/engine removal/pin or weld all-in-one forum, which is OK with me.
Welcome, always a pleasure to help TT owners and keep us inform of your project! J.P.
Mike
JP- So, when were you going to tell me about this coolant hose issue? About a month ago, I stated a project (the 100kmi 100 hp/lb-ft bump up) including new injectors that were really going to be hard to do with the engine in, not to mention water pump and hoses, etc. I started thinking about dropping the engine and while I was looking around the forums, I ran into this coolant hose thing. So, its been decided - I'm going to drop it - slowly, I hope.
I have a lift, but that doesn't solve all the problems from what I can see. It seems like the best way will be to get the engine/trans assembly loose and then lower the car down to a hydraulic table, take all the bolts out completely, and then lift the car off the assembly on the table.
Yes it is the best way but remember to lower the engine about 4 inches and take care of disconnecting the components on top of the engine, fuel hose, brake vacuum hose, coolant vent line, intake distributor assembly etc.. and after you can lower completely….
Something else I've been thinking about is taking the cross-member and the transmission mounts with the engine. The assembly will then rest on the tranny mount in front and the cross member in the rear, which are nice flat surfaces which will be resting on the nice flat surface of the table. I'm going to check one more time to make sure this can be done and then do it. One thing that this may help with is the problem with lining the assembly up to reinstall, which I've heard is a problem.
Never done it like that but heard it can be done….
Lastly, I'm quite sure I'm going to do the pin job. I don't have a complete picture of this in my mind, but it seems like going all the way through with a bolt would be the best way. I don't think the metal chips from drilling is a real issue if done carefully. The only thing that would be a real problem would be sealing the fixing bolt (or pin). I have never in my whole life been able to get anything that comes in a tube to seal or glue two things together successfully. Except for Loctite 574 for sealing and gluing case halves together.
Mike, think about it…It is a big job to remove the engine and pinning, imho is not "the" final solution….I am not a fan of glue when it is in contact with heat but I'm sure there has to be a proper glue out there but Porsche didn't know about it...….
Thanks again for being a great resource on another 996t project. I'll keep you posted - not sure if this is the right forum - it seems to be car lift/engine removal/pin or weld all-in-one forum, which is OK with me.
Welcome, always a pleasure to help TT owners and keep us inform of your project! J.P.
Mike
#201
How did you guys get the turbo oil return pipes off the waterpump housing?
Mine seems to be stuck.. It's two o-rings on each of them, need them off to replace destroyed pipes.
Any advice, heating or something or is it just to prepare for drilling them out..
3 pipes going in there (to the small pump) and would be nice getting the big one off without destroying it..
Mine seems to be stuck.. It's two o-rings on each of them, need them off to replace destroyed pipes.
Any advice, heating or something or is it just to prepare for drilling them out..
3 pipes going in there (to the small pump) and would be nice getting the big one off without destroying it..
#202
If you look at page 4 post 53 you will see that I had to scrap the lines....I only try release oil but did not work. I did not want to use heat because of the rubber seals near the turbo scavenge pump....Finally I discover the fitting were seized on the lines and turning the line (rest of it) I was able to take it off the reservoir. The other side need to be soak in release oil and shake a lot and finally came off.....Of course I had to order two new lines ;-(
Last edited by jpflip; 01-12-2017 at 06:26 AM.
#204
Got them out but not without a fight..
One was completely stuck so had to think good..
The end of the pipe is 16mm, and the pipe itself are 10mm.
Drilled a 10,5 mm hole, made M12 treads and put a M12 bolt in to get a good hold and finally it got loose..
One was completely stuck so had to think good..
The end of the pipe is 16mm, and the pipe itself are 10mm.
Drilled a 10,5 mm hole, made M12 treads and put a M12 bolt in to get a good hold and finally it got loose..
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