996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Coolant pipe repair. Parts needed....

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  #31  
Old 02-23-2012, 12:22 AM
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get it done

Give BBI Autosport a call, they have a complete weld in kit that they use on their large liter and race engine builds. Labor is very extensive and all must be addressed ( oil cooler console pipes fail as well ) all Turbo GT3 GT2
 
  #32  
Old 02-23-2012, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by FAST FWD
J-P,

Sorry to hear about all of the other things you found. That is one of the hidden costs of these repairs - the little things that are waiting to be found when you get into it.

But didn't you have your motor out before? You've posted lots of photos of a motor outside the vehicle.

Jon
Good morning Jon! About three years ago I got a call from a friend that was passing in front of a garage and saw a turbo with the engine removed. I just went there and took some pictures. Spent over three hours talking with the friendly mechanic....Learn a lot that day.
 
  #33  
Old 02-23-2012, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by code7rpd
JP - if those problems were not present would it be possible to access all of the fittings for pinning without engine removal? I would imagine the 3 on the water pump housing could be done or the housing removed. The pipe with the coolant temp sender with 1 fitting should be accessible. Removing the power steering pump bracket would give access to 1 or 2 fittings and the coolant manifold has 2 or 3 - not sure how many, but this may be the challenging piece. If you think it is possible I may attempt and put a DIY together for others to follow.
For pinning: I probably will do some more digging today. It is possible to reach the water pump housing easily (post #2), the bracket under the steering pump can be done very easily (post#6) , the pipes (post#1) in front of the water pump housing needs a lot more removal but can be reach. Finally the two on the oil filter housing are hidden(post#3). But I will come back may be later today with a better answer. But it is under a lot of wires and pipes...Of course I am taking lots of picture and will do something to help others later. But I am taking pictures also because this job will take long time and I am getting old and my memory is short
 
  #34  
Old 02-23-2012, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by heavychevy
I know for fact that the whole coolant housing can be removed without completely removing the motor, you can just drop it some. I ha e no idea how to do it but have seen it done.
Yes it is possible. I already remove the exhaust assembly to to that. After the exhaust is removed you have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier (Page 529 of the repair manual) And after the housing can be removed....
 
  #35  
Old 02-23-2012, 11:03 AM
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Hi JP,
Thanks for the PM , Ive not been online for a while. my new Classic Camper hire company has taken a lot of my time. Sorry to hear of all these problems.
Don't worry about the promise to try the coolant pipes with the engine in.lol I hope you just get them fixed OK. Good post this , sorry your having other issues with the car. Looks like some bad workmanship in the past

My engine is back out again, the MKB box has an issue so has gone back to Germany. i will have a chat with Ken and see what can be done with my pipes. I like the idea of pining if it can be done without disassembling the engine to do it.
 
  #36  
Old 02-24-2012, 07:51 PM
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While getting the engine ready to be removed I am updating the part lists for the job of removing the engine and get the 8 tubes welded...Updated today post#2 by adding the two small seals to drain the coolant which I just did today,,,, Part# 900 123 144 30, two needed....
 
  #37  
Old 02-24-2012, 09:21 PM
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Nice job on the parts list and updates, going to be doing this myself soon.
 
  #38  
Old 02-24-2012, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Basic
Nice job on the parts list and updates, going to be doing this myself soon.
Happy to help you Basic!
 
  #39  
Old 02-29-2012, 01:40 PM
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Just completed the engine removal today. I have to add another 2 o-rings needed for reinstallation. These are for the fuel line, left side.

Parts needed: 999 707 505 40 o-ring black
999 707 506 40 o-ring beige
 
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  #40  
Old 02-29-2012, 01:45 PM
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Here's a picture of the engine out but I wanted to show the stand that I bought to facilitate the work. Support up to 1100 pounds and the table is about 19" by 32". It was $676.00 free shipping and of course a bit cheaper I think for US of A....
 
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  #41  
Old 02-29-2012, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jpflip
Here's a picture of the engine out but I wanted to show the stand that I bought to facilitate the work. Support up to 1100 pounds and the table is about 19" by 32". It was $676.00 free shipping and of course a bit cheaper I think for US of A....
Bloody Hell JP your not hangin arround. 2 questions.

1. Have you got a car hoist? If not how did you get the car up high enough to use your new engine jack and to have enought room to actually drop the engine???
2. Have you left the transmission in the car?

Thanks,
Frank
 

Last edited by Frank ( Sunnyside ); 02-29-2012 at 02:30 PM.
  #42  
Old 02-29-2012, 03:44 PM
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I can answer Q2

seeing as the gearbox is bolted to the engine in the pic it's a pretty safe bet to say he took it out

And
 
  #43  
Old 02-29-2012, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by And996tt
I can answer Q2

seeing as the gearbox is bolted to the engine in the pic it's a pretty safe bet to say he took it out

And
Oh YES

The Three Blind Mice had better insight than I have.



 
  #44  
Old 02-29-2012, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Sunnyside
Bloody Hell JP your not hangin arround. 2 questions.

1. Have you got a car hoist? If not how did you get the car up high enough to use your new engine jack and to have enought room to actually drop the engine???
2. Have you left the transmission in the car?

Thanks,
Frank
You already got your answer for question # 2 Working too hard may be Frank!!!!

For question #1 , I have installed a Maxjax last summer . I had to redo the floor with the mandatory Fc = 3000psi (Strength of concrete)... In my case we put 5000 psi to be sure I got good anchorage even if I always wear a hard hat
 
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  #45  
Old 02-29-2012, 08:42 PM
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Update for the pipes needed. Of course it is up to you which ones you will replaced but there is a total of 8 pipes that are in the engine compartment. 2 big ones and 6 smaller ones...

Power steering housing: 996-106-328-74
Water pump housing right: 996-106-477-73
Water pump housing middle: 996-106-529-73
Water pump housing left: 996-106-512-74
Water pump housing supply: 996-106-250-74
Small line near temps sensor: 996-106-233-74

The big ones in the back l/h: 997-106-502-00 R/h: 996-106-501-77 + o-rings 996 106 801 03 X 4
 
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Last edited by jpflip; 03-05-2012 at 05:24 PM.


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