Coolant pipe repair. Parts needed....
#31
get it done
Give BBI Autosport a call, they have a complete weld in kit that they use on their large liter and race engine builds. Labor is very extensive and all must be addressed ( oil cooler console pipes fail as well ) all Turbo GT3 GT2
#32
J-P,
Sorry to hear about all of the other things you found. That is one of the hidden costs of these repairs - the little things that are waiting to be found when you get into it.
But didn't you have your motor out before? You've posted lots of photos of a motor outside the vehicle.
Jon
Sorry to hear about all of the other things you found. That is one of the hidden costs of these repairs - the little things that are waiting to be found when you get into it.
But didn't you have your motor out before? You've posted lots of photos of a motor outside the vehicle.
Jon
#33
JP - if those problems were not present would it be possible to access all of the fittings for pinning without engine removal? I would imagine the 3 on the water pump housing could be done or the housing removed. The pipe with the coolant temp sender with 1 fitting should be accessible. Removing the power steering pump bracket would give access to 1 or 2 fittings and the coolant manifold has 2 or 3 - not sure how many, but this may be the challenging piece. If you think it is possible I may attempt and put a DIY together for others to follow.
#34
Yes it is possible. I already remove the exhaust assembly to to that. After the exhaust is removed you have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier (Page 529 of the repair manual) And after the housing can be removed....
#35
Hi JP,
Thanks for the PM , Ive not been online for a while. my new Classic Camper hire company has taken a lot of my time. Sorry to hear of all these problems.
Don't worry about the promise to try the coolant pipes with the engine in.lol I hope you just get them fixed OK. Good post this , sorry your having other issues with the car. Looks like some bad workmanship in the past
My engine is back out again, the MKB box has an issue so has gone back to Germany. i will have a chat with Ken and see what can be done with my pipes. I like the idea of pining if it can be done without disassembling the engine to do it.
Thanks for the PM , Ive not been online for a while. my new Classic Camper hire company has taken a lot of my time. Sorry to hear of all these problems.
Don't worry about the promise to try the coolant pipes with the engine in.lol I hope you just get them fixed OK. Good post this , sorry your having other issues with the car. Looks like some bad workmanship in the past
My engine is back out again, the MKB box has an issue so has gone back to Germany. i will have a chat with Ken and see what can be done with my pipes. I like the idea of pining if it can be done without disassembling the engine to do it.
#36
While getting the engine ready to be removed I am updating the part lists for the job of removing the engine and get the 8 tubes welded...Updated today post#2 by adding the two small seals to drain the coolant which I just did today,,,, Part# 900 123 144 30, two needed....
#39
Just completed the engine removal today. I have to add another 2 o-rings needed for reinstallation. These are for the fuel line, left side.
Parts needed: 999 707 505 40 o-ring black
999 707 506 40 o-ring beige
Parts needed: 999 707 505 40 o-ring black
999 707 506 40 o-ring beige
#40
Here's a picture of the engine out but I wanted to show the stand that I bought to facilitate the work. Support up to 1100 pounds and the table is about 19" by 32". It was $676.00 free shipping and of course a bit cheaper I think for US of A....
#41
1. Have you got a car hoist? If not how did you get the car up high enough to use your new engine jack and to have enought room to actually drop the engine???
2. Have you left the transmission in the car?
Thanks,
Frank
Last edited by Frank ( Sunnyside ); 02-29-2012 at 02:30 PM.
#43
The Three Blind Mice had better insight than I have.
#44
Bloody Hell JP your not hangin arround. 2 questions.
1. Have you got a car hoist? If not how did you get the car up high enough to use your new engine jack and to have enought room to actually drop the engine???
2. Have you left the transmission in the car?
Thanks,
Frank
1. Have you got a car hoist? If not how did you get the car up high enough to use your new engine jack and to have enought room to actually drop the engine???
2. Have you left the transmission in the car?
Thanks,
Frank
For question #1 , I have installed a Maxjax last summer . I had to redo the floor with the mandatory Fc = 3000psi (Strength of concrete)... In my case we put 5000 psi to be sure I got good anchorage even if I always wear a hard hat
#45
Update for the pipes needed. Of course it is up to you which ones you will replaced but there is a total of 8 pipes that are in the engine compartment. 2 big ones and 6 smaller ones...
Power steering housing: 996-106-328-74
Water pump housing right: 996-106-477-73
Water pump housing middle: 996-106-529-73
Water pump housing left: 996-106-512-74
Water pump housing supply: 996-106-250-74
Small line near temps sensor: 996-106-233-74
The big ones in the back l/h: 997-106-502-00 R/h: 996-106-501-77 + o-rings 996 106 801 03 X 4
Power steering housing: 996-106-328-74
Water pump housing right: 996-106-477-73
Water pump housing middle: 996-106-529-73
Water pump housing left: 996-106-512-74
Water pump housing supply: 996-106-250-74
Small line near temps sensor: 996-106-233-74
The big ones in the back l/h: 997-106-502-00 R/h: 996-106-501-77 + o-rings 996 106 801 03 X 4
Last edited by jpflip; 03-05-2012 at 05:24 PM.