Coolant pipe repair. Parts needed....
#46
03-01-2012, 03:31 AM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Scotland
Posts: 1,462
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You already got your answer for question # 2 
Working too hard may be Frank!!!!
For question #1 , I have installed a Maxjax last summer . I had to redo the floor with the mandatory Fc = 3000psi (Strength of concrete)... In my case we put 5000 psi to be sure I got good anchorage even if I always wear a hard hat
Working too hard may be Frank!!!!For question #1 , I have installed a Maxjax last summer . I had to redo the floor with the mandatory Fc = 3000psi (Strength of concrete)... In my case we put 5000 psi to be sure I got good anchorage even if I always wear a hard hat
What height can you lift the car up to JP. Can you get the hoist to its max position. I ask because I'm looking into getting one as well, but 10ft to the trusses is the max height I can heave
Your doing very well BTW. Being able and having the tools to take an engine out DIY is one of my goals.
#47
03-01-2012, 07:39 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266 A hard hat, an absolute must.
What height can you lift the car up to JP. Can you get the hoist to its max position. I ask because I'm looking into getting one as well, but 10ft to the trusses is the max height I can heave
Your doing very well BTW. Being able and having the tools to take an engine out DIY is one of my goals.
What height can you lift the car up to JP. Can you get the hoist to its max position. I ask because I'm looking into getting one as well, but 10ft to the trusses is the max height I can heave
Your doing very well BTW. Being able and having the tools to take an engine out DIY is one of my goals.
#49
03-01-2012, 03:51 PM
#50
03-01-2012, 06:39 PM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266 Jon ,a dedicated racing driver with your experience, don't tell me you didn't feel this extra weight while driving in high speed curves?
#52
03-02-2012, 02:25 PM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266 That's a hat I wear when I work under my car with the Maxjax!!!!
#53
03-02-2012, 04:03 PM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266
Difficult day today 
. Because I have to remove the coolant pump housing and because in this housing there are the turbos reservoir scavenge pumps, you have to remove the three oil lines from and to the housing....THe lines from the turbo reservoir were completely seized. Even after an hour bath in release oil I could not remove them without damaging them....New lines on order 
. Because I have to remove the coolant pump housing and because in this housing there are the turbos reservoir scavenge pumps, you have to remove the three oil lines from and to the housing....THe lines from the turbo reservoir were completely seized. Even after an hour bath in release oil I could not remove them without damaging them....New lines on order
#54
03-02-2012, 04:06 PM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266
Request for engine builder. The bracket under the oil cooler. The junction between this bracket and the engine case were the case breathing goes to the reservoir is only sealed with RTV. Any idea what kind I should used...My guess is high temp .... Thanks for your help....
#56
03-02-2012, 07:01 PM
Difficult day today . Because I have to remove the coolant pump housing and because in this housing there are the turbos reservoir scavenge pumps, you have to remove the three oil lines from and to the housing....THe lines from the turbo reservoir were completely seized. Even after an hour bath in release oil I could not remove them without damaging them....New lines on order
. Because I have to remove the coolant pump housing and because in this housing there are the turbos reservoir scavenge pumps, you have to remove the three oil lines from and to the housing....THe lines from the turbo reservoir were completely seized. Even after an hour bath in release oil I could not remove them without damaging them....New lines on order
#57
03-03-2012, 09:01 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266 Thanks for mentioning Basic. I come from a world where using a torch was forbidden so I did not think about that option. You think it would help without damaging anything, like coking the oil in the pipe or applying heat to the water pump housing with the dual turbo scavenge pumps ? But I will use this option next time , you can be sure...
Last edited by jpflip; 03-03-2012 at 09:07 AM.
#58
03-03-2012, 09:13 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266
Got a little bit of cleanup done last night on 5 pipes. Obviously the pinning option was no good for me because on two of the pipes the glued was in powder!!! Was able to pull the pipes by hand! But on the cooler bracket they were installed with much more glued. Strange option Porsche used.... Now these are ready for the welder... Moving forward 
#59
03-03-2012, 09:57 AM
Should be fine, just dont heat it for more then say one minute. But it depends on the torch and the flow setting.
When you re-assemble use anti-seize on any bolt especially into aluminum, unless it needs a thread sealant or loctite.
You should consider replacing the coolant hoses and any other rubber hose while you are in there. I just received mine from Suncoast and was quite amazed at how inexpensive they were. The coolant tank as well as a new fuel filter.
When you re-assemble use anti-seize on any bolt especially into aluminum, unless it needs a thread sealant or loctite.
You should consider replacing the coolant hoses and any other rubber hose while you are in there. I just received mine from Suncoast and was quite amazed at how inexpensive they were. The coolant tank as well as a new fuel filter.
#60
03-03-2012, 10:12 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Montreal Canada
Age: 69
Posts: 2,804
Rep Power: 266 Should be fine, just dont heat it for more then say one minute. But it depends on the torch and the flow setting.
When you re-assemble use anti-seize on any bolt especially into aluminum, unless it needs a thread sealant or lactate. In fact I have order all my parts last night, o-rings , pipes and let me tell you some of the o-rings are really expensive????
You should consider replacing the coolant hoses and any other rubber hose while you are in there. I just received mine from Suncoast and was quite amazed at how inexpensive they were. The coolant tank as well as a new fuel filter.
When you re-assemble use anti-seize on any bolt especially into aluminum, unless it needs a thread sealant or lactate. In fact I have order all my parts last night, o-rings , pipes and let me tell you some of the o-rings are really expensive????
You should consider replacing the coolant hoses and any other rubber hose while you are in there. I just received mine from Suncoast and was quite amazed at how inexpensive they were. The coolant tank as well as a new fuel filter.
The repair manual mention sometimes to used Loctite 574 but there is no mention of the cooler removal or the bracket under it. No torque no removal/installation. Under the cooler bracket there was some rtv. Which type would you use? It is only a crankcase breather port....
Basic we both live in the same country, do not hesitate to mention product that I can found in auto store or even Canadian tire, Thanks for your help....
Last edited by jpflip; 03-03-2012 at 10:36 AM.