Question for metal specialist.... I got a welder for the 8 coolant pipes that is asking me a very good question. He would like to know if there was any quenching after welding. Because the metal being in quality t4 or t6 and welding it comes back to T0, did you have to reheat the parts to get it back to T4 or T6 ?????

 

It's all cast, there is no T6 type heat treatment in those metal parts. Quenching those parts immediately after welding would almost certainly result in cracking along the weld. Do not have him do that at all.

He should properly clean and prep them, preheat the castings to be welded, and just weld the pipe ends inplace. You can even reuse/weld in the stock pipes if you're careful enough in removing them without damage. They must be removed prior to welding to clean off all the factory epoxy sealer....yeah the crap that fails to begin with and creates this whole mess.

I've welded up a set of cheap vice grips to clamp the OEM pipes securely and remove them w/o damaging their surfaces. Once clean, I just clock and weld them right back in place. The billet aftermarket pieces are only needed if the OEM parts are damaged(but there's also nothing wrong in using them anyway if so desired).

 

Thanks a lot for these valuables informations. That is helping me a lot!!!

 

No problem. Just make sure he cleans the parts VERY well. Using a small ~1" diameter wire brush in an electric drill makes cleaning the inside of the ports easier. Wipe with acetone thereafter and bake clean. You've got to get all that epoxy out of the weld zone.

 

Yup it is eggzachery like RennFab says. Preheat then weld.

A good pressure test on each item to about 20 psi is a good check afterwards for any pinhole leaks if any weld looks even slightly suspect. All it takes is the slightest imperfection and you have a small weeping leak.

 

In am working on a way to pressurized the engine while on the bench with the Automotive Cooling System Pressure Tester I just bought. The bladder type....Obviously I will do everything as possible to stay away from another engine removal ;-) Thanks Engine Guy and thanks again RennFab.

 

Grrrr I typed out a reply then poof it was gone.

Here it goes again but in shorted form.

I would test each component before installing on vehicle.

You can buy rubber stopper plugs from a hardware store in many different sizes, also you can make your own eazily and cheaply. Buy a plain rubber stopper from hardware store, if it does not have a hole drill one throught the rubber for a bolt. Insert a bolt with a washer on each end throught the hole and put a nut on the assembly. The bolt will compress the rubber to tighten it in the hole of your choice. You can make a small hole in one of the rubber plugs to inject air to pressure test. Inject air and submerge in a water bath. Look for bubbles.

I have a complete test kit as I do this all the time but every now and then you get a size you do not seem to have. My kit has a tire valve stem on each squish bolt to pressure test but you do not need that.

Here is an example of a pre made test kit without the air fitting.
http://www.huntingdonfusion.com/en/p...FY0BQAodfDCKZA
There is an automotive kit in their list of test plugs.

10 to 20 psi max inflation, especially with the water pump so as to not damage the water pump seal.

Even gromet style caps with hose clamps would work. You can get most of the sizes of plug off gromets from decent local parts stores.

 

jp, not sure I would use your guy if he has to ask that question. You better find someone who fully understands aluminium welding and has plenty of experience.

 

Thanks a lot Landjet I appreciate your concern. In fact I was worried too and finally manage to get in contact with another welder but this one more into automotive welding. No rush since my parts will be in only in a week or two....

 

That's a very interesting solution. I will see what we got in our hardware store. And yes I prefer your solution to test before installation on the engine. Thanks for that suggestion Engine Guy.

 

Engine guy, what do you think of these? Not all the size and getting expensive....

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...4492&catid=858

 

Those will work fine. You can loop the smaller ports with short lengths of regular heater hose and use those plugs to block off the larger ports.

If the welder does his job correctly there won't be a need to do this though.

 

They would work but they are expensive. For what you need it for a $2 rubber plug with a bolt in it is cheap and easy. But I guess in the end it could come down to what ever is the quickest to come up with.

Renn pressure testing is just cheap insurance time wise, having a weepy smelly leak that you find after the fact really sucks. I like your idea of looping a piece of hose from one fitting to the next. That could actually work really weld in items like those.