I would find being called "The Karate guy" the most insulting

 

Alan I spoke today....in my initial post, I blamed MYSELF and no one else. This is the 1st car I have ever purchased w/o PPI, shame on me.....Alan has offered renumeration for the clutch, and what ever the final condition is of the 2 codes that won't go away.
I refused alan's mechanic(btw was mine as well for 2 years, he did the big build on my stage 3 RS6), as I want a Porsche specific mechanic to install the clutch. Some things have not been to my liking with said mechanic, like reusing stretch bolts, discovering undercarriage stretch bolts loose after his work. Oversight I am sure, but dangerous as hell.
I def do NOT think Alan would sell me the car with slipping clutch.....for the record...I was driving car home on parkway day I purchased from Alan, in 4th 65mph, decided to give ot some gas to get around slower car, engage 5th gear give it gas, hammer no roll on accelerator yes, as stated the car pulls like a freight train, as rpm's got to 4200, they raced to Redline. I immediately pull off gas, and drive the car home gingerly. My friend who drove can attest. My mechanic down here who worked for Schneider Nelson for 6 years, picked car up tues night, on parkway to his shop, he easily replicated what I described, slipping in 5th. My FAULT, why? I should of turned around that day and picked Alan up and showed him what was happening. I don't think Alan, knew.
Why this thread? I have owned car for two weeks, and between p1126/1128 and clutch the car is back in shop....I am frustrated.
Is their engine problem, NO...is car flawless-YES. Did Alan drop a lot of cash in this car, between body kits, custom stereos, custom interior, gt3 seats, etc,etc,etc-yes... Was the price IMO fair, YES.
Sorry Alan, I know the thread could of been generic, as can anyone throw me some ideas. This thread is finished. I should have car fixed and picked ip next Saturday, I hope.
Stephen

 

Good.... now let's all collectively try and help...

 

Great response and sounds like this will get resolved in no time.
next time you guys should exchange phone calls not txts like two.teenagers

 

Lmao omg, lol..... Wtf, why the face?

 

Allan is a really cool guy but buying a used car is a hit or miss. I bought mine from another member eith great rep but i had some issues with the car too.

I know u have an evoms CAI and if u look around the forum u will see they cause a lot of maf problems

 

Yep, I bought a dry filter, non oiled and new MAF.....

 

I would go for a double or even triple carbon fiber clutch. You will cry once but be set w/ a clutch that can handle pretty much anything you can bolt on to a stock block for the next 40K miles.

 

My 996tt is mechanically stock, and when I bought it I had to invest a few thousands even though the car was stock and seller claimed nothing was needed. A modified car will be more prone to problems from my experience, but obviously depends a lot on how it was maintained.

In my stock car when I bought it (in the first month, and ever since no real problems):
1) Clutch slave cylinder was bad ($1600)
2) Got only 1 key (had to make another one $500)
3) Tires were almost dead, new tires all around and alignment ($2000)
4) Ignition key assembly was broken and key was getting stuck ($670)
5) Rear view mirror mount was broken and eventually mirror fell, had to replace the whole thing mount+ autodim mirror ($560)
6) Major 3yr service for the 996tt ($1640)
... Expensive, almost $7k, especially since I did all those things at the dealer. And despite it all, I love my car.

 

From what I have read, and what has been suggested by a couple of members, stage 3 CM fiber tough should do the trick. I will not be going back to Spec.

 

The CM3 should be more then enough for your application.

 

I have had the CM stg 3 for 2-3 years & love it. No problems at all.

 

Thank you guys i appreciate the feedback.

 

Speedtrapped, can you post your type 1 and type 2 over revs and the hours on the car along with the hours posted on the over revs? If you don't own Durametric, you need to invest in one. I had issues with mine (even though I did a PPI) and had to use Durametric to diagnose and reset. A standard OBD2 scanner will not pick up all codes.

I would also do a boost leak test since someone here mentioned those associated codes could be a result of air leaks. It is common for boost hoses to pop loose on high boosting cars.

Also, I hope you did not install a stock clutch...you will be in for another one very quickly if this is a modified car. $2500 is a very good price for an upgraded clutch..but fair price for stock...so I am a little concerned that you went the wrong direction there.

I learned even tho these are rock solid cars, you still need to pay to play. With a little research, one pays less than others. Latest win for me is DIY starter replacement...cost me $135. Worst lost..$1200 knock sensor repair.

Seems like you bought from a good guy and the seller is really active on this board, so I would really suggest using his mechanic to diagnose and repair. A modified car is unique in his own way. The dealer will not do a good job and most likely just throw parts at it until the lights go away.

 

+1 for working with Alan's mechanics. Between Protosport and Bodymotion I have personally found it could be problematic when the mods are done by one and serviced by the other...

I am sure you will love the car when the problems are fixed. It is a very nicely setup car.

Let us know what you find out about the p1126/1128 CEL codes