$$$$, that sad sucking sound
#46
04-03-2012, 11:13 AM
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Little silver NJ
Posts: 220
Rep Power: 39 
Speedtrapped, can you post your type 1 and type 2 over revs and the hours on the car along with the hours posted on the over revs? If you don't own Durametric, you need to invest in one. I had issues with mine (even though I did a PPI) and had to use Durametric to diagnose and reset. A standard OBD2 scanner will not pick up all codes.
I would also do a boost leak test since someone here mentioned those associated codes could be a result of air leaks. It is common for boost hoses to pop loose on high boosting cars.
Also, I hope you did not install a stock clutch...you will be in for another one very quickly if this is a modified car. $2500 is a very good price for an upgraded clutch..but fair price for stock...so I am a little concerned that you went the wrong direction there.
I learned even tho these are rock solid cars, you still need to pay to play. With a little research, one pays less than others. Latest win for me is DIY starter replacement...cost me $135. Worst lost..$1200 knock sensor repair.
Seems like you bought from a good guy and the seller is really active on this board, so I would really suggest using his mechanic to diagnose and repair. A modified car is unique in his own way. The dealer will not do a good job and most likely just throw parts at it until the lights go away.
I would also do a boost leak test since someone here mentioned those associated codes could be a result of air leaks. It is common for boost hoses to pop loose on high boosting cars.
Also, I hope you did not install a stock clutch...you will be in for another one very quickly if this is a modified car. $2500 is a very good price for an upgraded clutch..but fair price for stock...so I am a little concerned that you went the wrong direction there.
I learned even tho these are rock solid cars, you still need to pay to play. With a little research, one pays less than others. Latest win for me is DIY starter replacement...cost me $135. Worst lost..$1200 knock sensor repair.
Seems like you bought from a good guy and the seller is really active on this board, so I would really suggest using his mechanic to diagnose and repair. A modified car is unique in his own way. The dealer will not do a good job and most likely just throw parts at it until the lights go away.
As for clutch, I have not replaced yet, but plan on CM stage fiber tough.
I am very familiar with VAG tool for Audi...the Durametric requires a learning curve. The car was overevved 2x as per the mechanic who did the diagnosis last week. I have to figure out over rev procedure, likely bug TTboost for advice on using the tool.
Stephen
#47
04-03-2012, 11:47 AM
The over revs should be a straight readout on Durametic. The reason I ask, if there are a large number of Type 2s, you might have internal engine damage that is causing your problems (which is very bad news). Wanted to rule out all possibilities. Type 1 is generally OK.
Good luck and I hope you get it all sorted out.
Good luck and I hope you get it all sorted out.
#51
04-03-2012, 09:04 PM
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#52
04-04-2012, 12:48 PM
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Little silver NJ
Posts: 220
Rep Power: 39
Update, John from Protosport will be working on the car, as I am dropping off Friday...I think early next week or so. Alan and John(misunderstanding with Protosport, and I am man enough to admit I can be impatient) have both been very helpful. CM Stage 3 Fiber Tough ordered and on its way.
Ari, I would not be suprised its something silly....at least I am hoping,
Ari, I would not be suprised its something silly....at least I am hoping,
#53
04-12-2012, 12:06 PM
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Little silver NJ
Posts: 220
Rep Power: 39
Update......strange indeed....
Protosport(john), has had car for a week. Pressure tested, tight, vac leaks none// when i drove the car up to see him, I cleared the CEL and the p1126/28 figuring they would pop up 100miles or so(thats how it happened last 2 times), as thread stated, MAF, coils, plugs, oil cap, all changed....John has driven about 150 miles(as I asked him to), NADA, NOTHINg, ZILTCH.....no codes, no friggin codes, 12 diff cold starts by john, perfect...durametric scans, O2's etc, all good.
So, what did come up was the greddy controller had been dialed in to 1.45bar(the promotive tune for pump is max 1.25bar. John realized this and adjusted, drove the car w/ and w/o greddy at proper bar, no clutch slippage...he did make it slip easily in 4th when it was 1.45bar. He says the clutch does need to be replaced, but I elected to schedule a proper appt w/ him next month(as he was nice enough to take me in unscheduled, and he is busy with a bunch of race cars). I have the CM fiber tough, in the trunk-swap in may-then maybe slap a bigger turbo on her....he did suggest I get rid of the Evom box and go back stock.
Protosport(john), has had car for a week. Pressure tested, tight, vac leaks none// when i drove the car up to see him, I cleared the CEL and the p1126/28 figuring they would pop up 100miles or so(thats how it happened last 2 times), as thread stated, MAF, coils, plugs, oil cap, all changed....John has driven about 150 miles(as I asked him to), NADA, NOTHINg, ZILTCH.....no codes, no friggin codes, 12 diff cold starts by john, perfect...durametric scans, O2's etc, all good.
So, what did come up was the greddy controller had been dialed in to 1.45bar(the promotive tune for pump is max 1.25bar. John realized this and adjusted, drove the car w/ and w/o greddy at proper bar, no clutch slippage...he did make it slip easily in 4th when it was 1.45bar. He says the clutch does need to be replaced, but I elected to schedule a proper appt w/ him next month(as he was nice enough to take me in unscheduled, and he is busy with a bunch of race cars). I have the CM fiber tough, in the trunk-swap in may-then maybe slap a bigger turbo on her....he did suggest I get rid of the Evom box and go back stock.
#54
04-12-2012, 01:42 PM
Here we go with ove revs again ... The car is Proto tuned,
over revs will not tell the story, Todd extends the rev limit on his tunes, so you can trigger type 2's just by hitting the extended rev limit.
The over revs should be a straight readout on Durametic. The reason I ask, if there are a large number of Type 2s, you might have internal engine damage that is causing your problems (which is very bad news). Wanted to rule out all possibilities. Type 1 is generally OK.
Good luck and I hope you get it all sorted out.
Good luck and I hope you get it all sorted out.
#55
04-12-2012, 01:54 PM
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Little silver NJ
Posts: 220
Rep Power: 39
Yep Alan confirmed that promotive bumped the limiter up. honestly, the car (when no codes are present) drives like a raped ape, and sounds beautiful.
#58
04-12-2012, 11:35 PM
Speedtrapped, I drove this car a little over a year ago when I was searching for my TT. I met Alan through a mutual aquaintance and he, by my accounts is a stand up nice guy. The car rode nice and I did not find any issues. I did not go that route as I was not looking for a car with that level/types of mods. I have utilized the guys at Protosport with excellent results. Again, just my experiences but wanted to share. As we all know, any used car purchase can be a risk. Buying from the right guy, is very important to me, meaning, it is important to interview the seller to determine the level of character. At my age, I strive to ensure the experience (both buyer and seller) is a very positive one as people are what really matters in life. No PPI or other will completely mitigate risks and at the end of the day, the issues will be resolved, no matter how significant, and you will enjoy the car and experience. It sounds like you turned a corner and the road looks pretty clear. That is great. Enjoy the car and summer man!
#59
04-13-2012, 06:45 AM
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Little silver NJ
Posts: 220
Rep Power: 39 Speedtrapped, I drove this car a little over a year ago when I was searching for my TT. I met Alan through a mutual aquaintance and he, by my accounts is a stand up nice guy. The car rode nice and I did not find any issues. I did not go that route as I was not looking for a car with that level/types of mods. I have utilized the guys at Protosport with excellent results. Again, just my experiences but wanted to share. As we all know, any used car purchase can be a risk. Buying from the right guy, is very important to me, meaning, it is important to interview the seller to determine the level of character. At my age, I strive to ensure the experience (both buyer and seller) is a very positive one as people are what really matters in life. No PPI or other will completely mitigate risks and at the end of the day, the issues will be resolved, no matter how significant, and you will enjoy the car and experience. It sounds like you turned a corner and the road looks pretty clear. That is great. Enjoy the car and summer man!
as for Protosport and John....a great guy, he took a lot time to go over everything we me when I dropped the car off. They are 60 miles from me, and even though I have a dedicated Porsche performance shop literally 7 miles from my house, I will be using John/Protosport again.
#60
04-13-2012, 11:21 PM
Speedtrapped, I am glad all has been resolved satisfactorily for you. John & Paul at Protosport are great to deal with and I also go there for engine services since they did the turbo work for me. For other maintenance I also go to BM since they are even closer to me (5miles) and they are also great and very competent.
Our 2 cars are in fact quite similar in terms of engine upgrades, both done by protosport. For your P1126 code, could it be because the car had not been driven for some time and with the problem now resolving by itself after more regular driving?
Our 2 cars are in fact quite similar in terms of engine upgrades, both done by protosport. For your P1126 code, could it be because the car had not been driven for some time and with the problem now resolving by itself after more regular driving?