So any gurus have a thought and help a fellow owner out? Alan's car is turning out to cost me a lot of $, shame on me for not PPI the car.
I had posted 2 other threads so this thread is an update.
Day I had brought car home, 5th gear pull on parkway, clutch slip...cha Ching, that replacement $2500.00 next week. Then home pull codes, p1126/1128,.... So new MAF, new coil packs, new plugs, new oilcap seal, new air filter, no vac lines leaking, discovered a well carbon'ed header to turbo O ring leak, replaced, codes cleared..car passes inspection( yeah, small victory). Today cold start, sputter idle, warm up idle fines, drive CEL...car bogs.....code read, p1126/1128, misfires 1,2,3....
I love the car, but this experience with a "mechanically" sound car is putting a really bad taste in my mouth. I just dropped car off at body motion for diagnosis, and likely a grand or so if I am lucky.
Btw, I have had car 2 weeks, 240 miles, in shop 4 days of 14, not including today.

 

What year and how many miles does your car have?

 

Sorry to hear that! You may as well find out exactly what you purchased so get a PPI or similar inspection done before you start changing parts and throw money on to repair things that " pop up". Do you have maintenance records for the car?? If yes, check them and see what was done to the car. Are there any mods?? Start checking there and see who did it and see if they were done correctly....
On the clutch.. anybody that buys a manual geared car checks the clutch for slippage so you slipped up there (pun intended). I am thinking though that you have some recourse and should talk to the seller and get some agreement in place to have him pay for at least some of that repair / replacement IF the car had standard / non modded parts (clutch etc) installed. If the car was modded.. I think you do not have too much of a shot at making this stick. Any modded car is at a higher risk of ending up with problems and the buyer is expected to understand that I feel. I am just questioning why suddenly in the span of 1-2 days you find out all these parts need to be changed and that the car ran OK when you did a test drive with presumably no CEL's on at that time. Sounds like something set of that chain of events. Perhaps your friendly dealer / repair shop decided they needed to make some money. Just conjecture from my part of course. Good luck and please keep us posted.

 

Ok, the car is alan's, I don't remember his name on here, but it is protosport built, protmotive 650 turbos, k24/18, blown6 IC, Bailey DV, evom CAI, evom clubsport headers, custom hard piping IC, pRotomotive tune, greddy boost controller, spec stage 3 clutch, lwfw.
I am purely at fault, I have always bought 1 new car, and 1 used lightly modded, or more and never NOT PPI. My fault.
I still have not received the pAperwork, as I have asked and he said he forgot. The car is a 01' TT.
The car is stunning, and Alan took care of the interior and exterior, but sadly the exhaust leak proves, the p1126/1128 codes, which still exist, have been around for a while. The clutch, well it slips easily in 5th, on a semi hard pull, anything above 4200rpm. It does not when greedy is off and car runs .85 bar. When boost controller is on the car runs 1.25 bar, and the load I guess in 5th can't hold. When I test drove the car, Alan drove it, I was Leary in NNJ during rush hour and he has the car suited with JIC coil overs. Again, my fault. I'm not using this thread to blame, I am trying to figure out, given what mechanic just added, what else could it be?
I totally didn't expect to drop $5-6k in making the car mechanically sound.
I was introduced by to the car by a mechanic friend in NJ, who did a large build on my RS6, and has worked on alan's cars. As much as I want to punch him in the face, I can only blame myself.

 

The mechanic that is, Alan is a bad *** black belt in BJJ...

 

I feel for you buddy -- diagnosing a car with such extensive mods is not easy. Did the previous owner do all the work himself, or was it done by a shop or mechanic? I'm just thinking that might be a place to start, since some detailed history on how the car has performed (and should perform) with all these mods might be helpful.

I'm also curious whether you know if these codes you are seeing have always been there. Other than the clutch slipping, was there something else in the car's performance or running that you noticed was wrong (or was it just the codes)? Could all the things you changed to try to fix the codes (e.g. "...new MAF, new coil packs, new plugs, new oilcap seal, new air filter, no vac lines leaking, discovered a well carbon'ed header to turbo O ring leak, replaced....") cause some new issues? Just trying to come up with some ideas for you. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

Answer- protosport in NNJ did the build, 14k miles and 4 years ago. I actually tried to call them and ask a question related to the car, and the guy was rude.
The day I got car home, even though cat less ( my RS6 at one time was) it smelled really rich, and was smoking very lightly at idle, 55mile trip from alan's house to mine. I pulled out and obd2 and dash command(I now have a durametric) and read p1126/1128. Ok easy enough, I will remove MAF and spray clean with some CRC. Install, clear codes and no issues. Next am, cold start, sloppy idle...CEL , misfire and same 2 codes, great I though I ruined MAF. My friend who is a mechanic delivered me a new one($225.00), pull battery, clear codes, install new one... Starts up, idled fine, drove her for 1.5 days, 90 miles...CEL, p1126/1128. So I was having my mechanic change oil, I know plugs likely were shot, and Alan said he didn't change coil packs...so I asked my mechanic to swap coil packs, plugs, change oil cap seal, change oil, check over everything to determine where codes come from, an earlier thread many suggested a vac leak, exhaust leak, or MAF. MAF wasn't it, it's new, no vac leaks, and said exhaust leak discovered and fixed. I did ask mechanic to change O2's, he did not as he said visually they looked fined, and were reading fine on his duremtric.

 

No offense to Alan but he knew if the clutch slipped in 5th gear under boost, as an owner YOU KNOW these things and make people aware. PPI shows these things but would they have driven the car into 5th at WOT at 1.25 bar, probably not. The car had no codes when you bought it but they jumped up instantly after you brought it home???
Codes can be reset and some don't come on for some good 60-100 miles, some don't show up until you're in boost. I wish you luck, as far as protosport I can't say I had any good experience with them, just failed attempts at making appointments and etc.
Good luck and I feel your pain.

 

there's a reason this car was inexpensive

 

Inexpensive?. I beg to differ. I paid, $54k for an 11 year old car. I am well aware of $$$ in with mods etc, as I just sold my RS6 that had extensive mods, and recouped about .25 on the $1.00....Alan put a lot of $$ in car, and I paid a fair price. I passed on the pRotomotive built 1000hp for this car, because I had made a gentlemens agreement to buy alan's car. Damn.

 

What plugs did you put in and what gap?

 

NGk bkr7e.....- .25

 

Plugs should be good. Make sure they do a full boost leak check. I have a link in my signature below. Some of the codes you are getting could be vac/intake leaks.

 

Ty raineycd....

Body motion in ocean have a well known Porsche racing team. The have a great rep, expensive...but I hope I can get the car right and enjoy her.

 

Str8blast....he is a stand up guy, maybe he can work something out with you.

How many miles on car, what did you pay, etc?

Edit, just saw that you paid $54k.