996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

failed emissions

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Old 05-12-2012 | 09:40 AM
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failed emissions

Any thoughts on where to start on this. My car is a 2003 x50 with 16,000 mi. I failed emissions due to the CATALYTIC CONVERTER EFF, EVAP CONTROL SYS and SECONDARY AIR SYS not ready. I've put 100 miles on and drove different cycles since battery put back in. There are no lights on or codes in computer. On a side note, I'm not gettting full boost, and I noticed during the first 20 minutes there is a wind noise from the right rear of car while driving, it goes away when clutch is put in. I have a loud Fabspeed exhaust. I realize to look for possible crack in rubber intake from turbo, but I decided to check here first before taking things apart. Any imput would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Old 05-12-2012 | 10:35 AM
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Pressure test! The full boost missing thing sounds like something is loose.

Actually, you're in Chicago -- I'd talk to Markski at 911Tuning.com. He can get you a kit to test or maybe even more

Henry
 
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Old 05-12-2012 | 10:39 AM
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Failed Emissions

I have a 2003 X50 as well, with a tune, and K24/18g upgrade and Europipe Exhaust. When I had everything installed, it passed emissions with no issues for a few years. Now I am getting not ready codes on the Catalyst and the Evap. It's back at the tuner now for diagnostics. I'll let you know what they find.

The one thing I do know is that if you disconnect your battery, it can take as much as a couple of hundred miles of mixed driving, including some highway miles to get the systems to reset. I drove mine 400 miles and was still getting not ready codes, so off to the shop it went.

Stay tunned
 
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Old 05-13-2012 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fastmcars
Any thoughts on where to start on this. My car is a 2003 x50 with 16,000 mi. I failed emissions due to the CATALYTIC CONVERTER EFF, EVAP CONTROL SYS and SECONDARY AIR SYS not ready. I've put 100 miles on and drove different cycles since battery put back in. There are no lights on or codes in computer. On a side note, I'm not gettting full boost, and I noticed during the first 20 minutes there is a wind noise from the right rear of car while driving, it goes away when clutch is put in. I have a loud Fabspeed exhaust. I realize to look for possible crack in rubber intake from turbo, but I decided to check here first before taking things apart. Any imput would be appreciated. Thanks.
My experience with my 03 Turbo (not an S) is a cold start then letting the engine idle warm up until the engine rpms drop to near normal folllowed by easy does it driving (at least staying under 4K rpms though I tend to keep rpms under 3K) until engine fully up to temp (one 'test' is if the engine is hot enough to check the oil level) then just give the engine a mix of driving for 30 miles is sufficient to ensure all the readiness tests are done and every supported monitor is marked 'complete'.

If you have any doubts you can get a simple OBD2 test tool that plugs into the car's OBD2 connector which you can use to then read/clear not only codes but can also read the readiness monitor statuses and confirm f they are set to complete. This is a handy tool to have, though I prefer a more sophisticate OBD2 code reader/data logger.

Be sure you fill up the tank with a top tier gas a tank or two before the test (and I run top tier gas exclusively).

Oh, the noise suggests a boost leak. A hose might be cracked, but what happens more often is a hose comes off or has a fold under which is a leak.

I had the plugs changed on my car the other day and the tech used some kind of rubber compatible lube to lube the insides of the boost hoses before he install them. He said if this is not done a piece of the hose can get hung up and while the hose goes on it leaks.

After the plugs were replaced and the inter-coolers were reinstalled along with of course the hoses, he took the car out and verified it would develop the proper amount of boost (in this area 0.7bar) under the right conditions.

Sincerely,

Macster.
 
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Old 05-14-2012 | 07:30 PM
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quick update

FYI, for what it's worth, I heard from my tuner today. He got the EVAP to ready and pass by letting the car idle for 20 minutes. I drove the damn thing 400 miles in mixed driving and on the track and it didn't reset, but I guess idling for a while must help.

Give it a shot.
 
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