Add me to the list of wish I had just pinned my fittings. I had the engine out to have mine welded and nothing but problems since, first I had p1250 code with P300 304 and 305, swapped out the maf and sure enough that didn't last long as a fix.

All of those codes are fixed and now there seems to be a short or something because the car even with a jump will shut off as soon as I take off the jumper cables. I'm not going to just replace everytging until its gone I want a resolution. Im pretty sure a bad alternator does not cause p1250 code or mixtures codes.

Any ideas?

 

How about the ground on the right side of the engine, is it connected properly? (ground can be seen under the engine, right front area near cylinder head over the right turbo) Also take a good look at the plugs on the right side (2 round and one rectangular)

 

Yeah, It sounds like the battery isn't connected (or it's toast) - should be a quick fix.

 

Check to make sure the single wire plug to the back of the alt is right. I think the oil temp one fits on the alt too.

 

Could a bad battery cause p1250 and misfire codes though? I will admit, I have been running a small 16lb battery. But it's been in the car for 2 whole years and almost always kept on a trickle charger. Never had any problems out of it until recently. I'm not going to keep buying stuff until I can at least know the symptoms.

I've read every alternator thread on here, and have not seen P300 codes or p1250.

 

...I was responding to the total power failure when you take off the jumper cables. I suppose a very weak battery could cause misfires. Start with the easy stuff (battery) and see if the misfires come back.

 

Ok I see what you are saying.

 

About to buy an alternator and have been given two options, one with a decoupler pulley and one without. Which one should I get? Has anyone heard of Worldwide Alternators?

 

Did you check to make sure the exciter wire is right? if not the alt will not produce voltage. I would go with the decoupler pulley as the alt will free wheel on motor decel.

 

Decoupler for manual transmission and without for automatic transmission as per parts catalog.

 

Thanks guys, I sourced the Bosch part at Advance Auto Parts with the part # listed in one of the Alternator threads in here. I believe its BSH AL0812X.


I've been running very small batteries pretty much since 2008 and my car is at a tick under 40k miles. So it makes sense that the Alternator would crap out on me by now.


Still need to see what's up with the codes. The P1250 code did not come back when I started the car this morning (on a full charge). Battery meter read about 11.5 and the Battery Generator Warning light is still on.

Still has misfire codes though.

 

You ever consider just having your original alternator rebuilt? Sometimes, the part numbers don't cross reference well.

 

This part fit just fine, however when we tried to connect the battery, the negative terminal was hot! As in had power going to it. Sent the car to the shop to diagnose. Motor has been out recently, thinking some wires got mixed up.

 

The Vreg most commonly goes out on the Alternator. I just replaced mine for $39 in parts from Pelican Parts.